中国传统服饰(英文).ppt

,ChineseTraditionalCostume,ChineseTraditionalCostume,HanDynastySuiandTangdynastiesSongandYuandynastiesMingandQingDynastiestheRepublicofChinaModernsociety,Hanfu,HanfuisknownasHanzhuang,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,thenmanycametothecourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.(后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度),Yi(衣)：Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍)：Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦)：Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳)：Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(裤)：Trousersorpants.,Thestructure,Informaldress,Typesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes),Semi-formaldress,chang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝)：longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫)：longopenfrontedcoat,Formaldress,Xuanduan(玄端)：averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣)：alongfull-bodygarmentCurving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao(盤领袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdress,CostumeinTangDynasty,ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?,Contents,TangDynasty,FromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.,Features,ThegeneralfeaturesofwomenscostumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空装，袒胸装）exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.,Features,ThisisthepictureBeautiesWearingFlowersshowingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”,TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.,Features,Ingeneral,theTangwomensdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.,Features,Thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad,Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities,Features,HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?,Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.,Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.,HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?,HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?,Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.,Thankyouforyourlistening!,SongDynasty,CostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.,ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomensclothingarenarrow,long,thin.,唐代文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主，但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方。,SongDynasty,TheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.,SongDynasty,Ithasalreadybeganfoot-bindingintheSongdynastywhensancunjinlianhascameintobeing.,三寸金莲,YuanDynasty,TheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageofethnicgroupsinChinashistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.,ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.,However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.,YuanDynasty,蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠”，高约70100厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。,YuanDynasty,Zhisunfu:质孙服,上衣下裳，上紧下短，并在腰间加襞(b）积，肩背挂大珠,Zhisunfuwasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi.（一色衣）.,YuanDynasty,YuanDynasty,元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝。,QingDynasty,QingDynasty,DuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised(雍容华贵的).Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,officialranks(社会地位)andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.,Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontoweartherobewasgivenbyhim.,Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes.Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation.,ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume,whichstillhascertainimpactsonmoderncostume.Especially,alongwiththedevelopmentofChina,acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomenscurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople,asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies.,MainCharacteristics,shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外),theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰),clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣),increasewaistcoatorjacket(增加坎肩或马褂),MainCharacteristics,clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身),Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形),Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手),setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰),flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋),TheChinesetraditionalcostumeCheongsam,Contents,ThedefinitionofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructureofcheongsamRepresentativefigures,Definition,Qipao(Chipao)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.,Theevolution,Theevolution,Theevolution,Frog盘扣,Thestructure,立领,襟,衩,Mandarincollar立领,Lapel襟,Openings衩,embroidery,刺绣,Thestyle,Sleeves:widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin（襟）:roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin（双襟）,PipaJin（琵琶襟）,andsoon.Collar(领):highcollar,lowcollar，orcollarless.Openings（开衩）:highopenings,lowopenings,noopening,longsleeves,shortsleeves,sleeveless,Highcollar,Collarless,Lowcollar,Representativefigures,张爱玲EileenChang(1920-1995)Awell-knownwriter，beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.,Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.,邓丽君,WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.,InthefilmIntheMoodforLove（似水年华），MaggieCheung（张曼玉）changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease.Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot.,Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen,玉脂白,Expo(展览会)2010ShanghaiChina,CheongsamforMissManners,青花瓷,宝蓝,Thankyou!,现代民族服饰,现在，民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰，也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰。由于我国民族众多，我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰。苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰，既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩，也是历史文化的瑰宝。,ModernEthnicClothing,Nationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenationsownuniquecostumes,canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes.Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry,IwillfocusontheMiaocostu