制鞋业标准流程之--裁断篇(图文并茂)

鞋子制作流程圖,備面料,備底料,裁斷,針車,成型,成型底,組合底,裁斷CUTTING,概述:裁斷部門主要任務是用相應斬刀裁出鞋子的各部件,並印刷針車/成型操作所需的對位線條,及對鞋面裝飾進行電鄉/高波/燙金/雷射處理.Summary:ItstaskofcuttingdepartmenttocutouttheallcomponentsofupperwithcorrespondingcuttingdieandprintallmarkinglineforstitchingCommonlytoecap/vamp/heelcapneedbecutfromthebestandfirmestpartofaleather-thebackpartoftheanimal,duetothesesectionsmainlysupportfoottopreventfromslippingforwardorbackwardinwearandtheyoftensuffermuchabrasionduringwalkingorrunning.Foranothersections,needbecutfromtheneckorbellypartsofanimal.,2.裁斷前先選擇正確材料,並准備正確合理的排刀示意圖:必須確保裁向正確,使用最小的排刀安全距離(一般在1-2mm之間),每刀允許的最多裁斷層數,依材料種類不同其所裁層數分別如下:Beforecutting,preparethecorrectmaterialandthecorrectidlerwheeltemperature:180-200oC.,AppliedTooling:,過膠機Hotmeltmachine,熱熔膠Hotmelt,半叉削薄SKIVEWEDGE,1.根據所需削薄半叉的規格,調整好機器.Adjustthemachinetoskivethecorrectspecofwedge.2,削薄機刀片要注意不能缺口及孌形.Note:thebladeofmachineshouldbenodistortion與Cosmo貼合,溫度100-120度,時間6-8秒.Asperthematerialperformancesthatattachedwithhotmeltpcorrubbertopping,adjustthetemperatureforcosmo,tem:100-120C。,time:6-8sec.2.先將待熱壓部件放於壓機平台中,再用耐高溫的牛皮紙蓋住有貼熱熔膠處,再壓機.Atfirstputthecomponentontheflatofmachine,thenusekraftthatcanendurehightemperaturetocoveronthehotmeltportion,atlastpress.3.注意手勿觸摸高溫處Note:Donttoughthehightemperatureportionofmachine.,AppliedTooling:,壓熱熔膠機Presstheholtmeltmachine,電繡EMBROIDERY,1.設定好電繡的參數,包括線密度/核對配件及針的位置等等Settheparameterofembroiderywellincludingthethreaddensity.&collatingthepositionofcomponents&needleetc.2.固定外框板在電繡板上,再將配件貼在外框板上,並確保配件在電繡時不會移位.Fixtheframeofcomponentonembroideryboardandattachthecomponentontheframe.Mustmakesurethecomponentsnotmoveoffthecorrectpositionduringembroidering.3.電繡要均勻,稀密適當,要有立體感.Thedensityshouldbeappropriatetomakesuretheembroideryevenandsmooth&havethirddimension(3D).,雷射LASERETCHING,1.先依雷射圖案繪制出電腦檔案,並編制鐳射程序,設定鐳射參數速度1毫米/秒,功率10,頻率5KHC,電流:15A.Drawthelaserfilmwithcomputerthensetupthelaserprogramandmaketheparameterspeed1mmpersec,power10,frequency5KHC,electricity15A.2.先將鐳射的材料固定在工作台上,再設定鐳射的中心點,其位置需與程序中的中心座標相符.Fixthecomponentontheworktable,thensetupthecenterpositionthatcoordinatedatemustbecorrecttomatchthedateinprogram.3.在鐳射過程中,必須保證鐳射不要移位.Duringlase