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1、Styles and Details of Fashion 服装款式分类及其细部1 Shirts/Blouses男衬衫/女衬衫1.1 Shirt Details/ 男衬衫细部The shirt is inner wear or outer wear on the torso, was developed as a men s item. 男衬衫作为男装单品的一种,可以穿在里面也可以穿在外面。Point/领尖,shoulder yoke/ 肩部育克,sleeve, sleeve placket/袖衩,cuff/ 袖克夫,vent。开衩,collar band/底领,collar, collar

2、bottom, armhole, chest pocket, placket/ 门襟,front panel。前片,guntlet butt on/袖衩扣,cuff butto n/ 袖口扣.1.2 Blouse detailsThe blouse is a soft and loose garment for the upper body which is worn by women together with skirts or trousers. In today s fashion, there is a large variety of shirt / blouse styles.

3、The different features of individual designs, e. g. the neckline and collar, length, cut, details and decoration, together with the material produce a particular style.女衬衫是一种柔软宽松的女上衣,可以配以短裙也可以配裤子。如今,男 /女衬衫的款式有多种多样,特别的设计可以通过领口、领子、长度、裁剪、细部、装饰以及面料的变化创造 出独特的款式。Gather 抽褶 , cuff, front panel, slit/ 开衩 , c

4、ollar, armhole, placket, sleeve, cuff button.1.3 Blouse design variation/女 衬衫款式设计Tie neck/打结式The bands on the neckline are loosely knotted or tied into a bow.领口带子松松打结或系成蝴蝶结。Shirt style/男衬衫式The straight cut, cuffed sleeves and button placket are from mans shirt. 直线裁剪,带袖口的袖子和门襟都借用了男衬衫的风格。Peplum/腰裙式Top

5、 with a short skirt (peplum) which is either sewn on or shaped. 上衣设计有小短裙(腰裙) , 可以另缝一片也可以直接裁成。Blouson/短茄克式A blouse with a full bodice and close fitting waistband.上衣宽松,下摆带有合体腰带的衬衫。Safari style/ 猎装式Breast pockets, epaulettes and rolled sleeves emphasize the casual style. 胸袋、肩襻以及卷起的袖子强调出休闲的风格。Polo shirt

6、/马球式衫式A casual blouse made of knitted fabric with an open collar and a short button placket. 一种休闲风格衬衫,采用针织面料,开领,短开襟。Wrap- over/ 裹襟式The front section is closely overlapped and tied at the side.前面两片相互重叠,并在一侧打结Ruffle styleA blouse with ruffle on the front edges of neckline and collar. 前襟领口及领子设计有菏叶边的女衫。

7、2 Jacket/ 外套The jacket is a basic item of outwear. Sometimes, it refers particularly to the tailored types in mens clothing. In a broad sense it includes the jumper ( blouson) as well, and is worn by men, woman and children. The distinguishing features between individual designs doe example, length,

8、 width, silhouette s cut and details are determined by the style.外套是一种基本的外穿服装。 有时特指精制男西服。 广义来说,也包括休闲茄克, 可以是 男装、女装, 也可以是童装。 不同的款式在长度、宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪方式以及细部方 案各有独特之处。2.1 Jacket detailsGorge line/串口线,lapel/ 驳头,armhole, fro nt dart, flap pocket/ 盖式口袋,front cut/ 前摆圆角, collar, shoulder line/ 肩线,sleeve top/袖山头,f

9、lower hole/ 插花孔,chest wilt pocket/ 前胸开缝口 袋, sleeve, sleeve button.2.2 Denim and jumperDouble stitch/ 双明线 , shoulder yoke, bolt lock/ 锁缝 , front pleat, shirt collar, set-in sleeve/ 装袖 , western flap pocket/ 牛仔带盖口袋 .Joh nn ey collar, set-in sleeve, melto n/ 麦尔登呢 leather sleeve/皮 革袖,rib kn it/ 罗纹袖口 , m

10、onogram/角织字母,double piped pocket 双滚边口袋,knit jersey/针织下摆,dot button./打点纽 扣2.3 Jacket design variationTailored jacket/ 精制西服A dainty women sjacket, fitted at the waist with a classic lapel. 一种精制女外衣,腰部合体,设计有经典的翻驳领。Cardigan style/ 无领开襟式A hip length, shaped jacket with a long neck and no collar. 长及臀围,低领口,

11、无领的外衣。Short jacket/ 短外衣A short ,loose jacket which is also described as a jacket-top. 短而宽松的外衣,也被描述为外衣上身。Chanel suit/ 夏奈尔式A collarless style jacket. It employs “Chanel tweed ”and features hem-stitching. 一种无领的上衣,采用夏奈尔粗花呢,逼供内以镶边为特征。Blazer/布雷泽式(休闲西装)A sporty elegant jacket with a shaped style, single or

12、 double breasted with lapels. 精制优雅的休闲西装, 单排扣或双排扣,带有翻驳领。Denim jacket/ 牛仔茄克A waist-length jumper made from denim. Originally this was a western worker sgarment. 兰色斜纹布齐腰茄克,起源于西部工人工作服。3 CoatsLong outer wear worn on the very outside of all clothes. Above the knee it is called”short coat”,at the knee a “h

13、alf coat”,and below the knee a “long coat”.The dress is a basic item of female outer clothing. In the narrow sense, the item is used for a single piece of clothing comprising an upper body part and a skirt section.大衣是指穿在最外面的服装。 膝盖以上称短大衣, 及膝长度称半长大衣, 膝盖以下称长大衣。 裙装是女性的基本外衣,狭义是指上下连为一体的女装。3.1Coat detailsE

14、paulette 肩饰 , storm flap 披胸布 , raglan sleeve 插肩袖 , D-ring D 形环 , caped back 披肩 , chin warmer 下巴罩布 , flap and button pocket 带盖、带纽扣口袋 , cuff strap 袖口饰带 .3.2 Coat design variation/ 大衣款式设计Sport coat/ 运动式A knee length coat in a box-like cut with defined line. 直筒型及膝长大衣,带有明线设计。Great coat/ 厚重长大衣A heavy, thi

15、ck men s coat with a wide lapel and double breasted. 厚重面料的男装大衣,宽翻驳领,通常为双排扣。Trench coat/ 战壕式An all-weather coat. It is worn belted. Epaulettes, shoulder pads and wrist straps are typical details.一种适合各种气候穿着的宽松大衣,系腰带,肩襻、垫肩和袖襻是此款风衣的典型细部。Redingote/细腰式A fitted women s coat with lapel and long vertical sea

16、ms which widen to provide a flared. 带有翻驳领的合体女大衣,纵向破缝,宽下摆。Wrap/ 围裹式It has a comfortable width and is held together simply by a belt. 舒适宽松,用腰带简单系住。Raglan/插肩式A loose men s coat with raglan sleeves, often with concealed buttons. 男式宽松大衣,插肩袖,通常为暗扣门襟。Chesterfield/柴斯特外套(合体西服式)An elegant, fitted coat with a

17、suit-like lapel pointing up wards and flap pockets. 优雅合体型大衣,有西服式上翘的翻驳领和盖袋。3.3 Dress design variation/裙 装设计变化Shirt dress/衬衫式This has a loose cut, cuffed sleeves and shirt collar. It is buttoned all the way through and is belted. 宽松式裁剪,有袖口和男式衬衫领。前面通开扣,系腰带。Coat dress/大衣式This is usually made of strong m

18、aterial. It is always buttoned all the way down with a belt. 通常采用坚固面料,前面通开扣,系腰带。Strapless/无 带式The closely fitted, low-cut, sleeveless top is shaped and supported with boning. It sometimes also has thin straps.紧身合体,无袖上衣部分采用鱼骨支撑,有时也会采用细带。Day dress/晨 礼服An elegant, high neck, long sleeved dress, worn du

19、ring the day or also evening to semiformal occasions.一种优雅的高领口长袖裙装,用于白天或晚上半正式场合。Princess/公 主式Long vertical seams form a cloth-fitting top but a wide flared skirt. 纵向长破缝,上衣部分紧身合体,裙子部分展开下摆。Empire /帝国式The high, gathered under-bust seam is characteristic of the empire style.帝国式特征表现在胸下带有抽褶的高腰线裙,通常称之为帝国式。S

20、traight/ 直线式A flared or pleated skirt is fitted to an elongated straight top. 将阔摆或褶裥缝合到加长的直线裁剪的上衣上。Shift/衬衫式The shirt-like straight cut without a waist is characteristic of this dress. 衬衫式直线裁剪、无腰线的连衣裙称为直筒式 /4 Skirts/ 短裙Nowadays, the term skirt is used for an item of clothing worn from waist down and

21、 which is the basic element of womens clothing matching jacket with skirt makes a suit, or costume. Many styles of skirts are subject to changes in fashion. Other styles are considered classics, or timeless. Individual styles are distinguished by length, width, silhouette, cut and details.短裙是指自腰而下的服

22、装单品, 是女装的一个基本元素。 短裙与外套相配便可形成套装, 也 可以组成礼服。 很多裙子的款式会随着流行而变化, 也有些款式被看做经典而经久不衰。 个 种款式通过长度、宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪结构以及细部的不同而有所区别。4.1 Skirt length/ 短裙的长度种类Micro 超超短 , mini 超短 , knee 及膝 , below the knee 膝下 , midi 及小腿 , maxi 过小腿 , ankle length 及脚踝 , floor length 及地4.2 skirt design variation/ 短裙款式设计Narrow/ 一步裙The hem of

23、the skirt is narrow than the width at the hips. 裙子的下摆宽度比臀围窄。Draped/悬垂裙An elegant, sophisticated skirt with folds. 带有柔软悬垂褶的优雅华美的裙子。Bell/钟形裙The circular or semi0circular cut produces a flared hem. 圆形或半圆摆裁剪,形成展开的下摆。Paneled/多片裙This style is close at the hips with a wide hem obtained by shaped vertical p

24、anels. 通过纵向分割线实现臀部合体,下摆展开。Gored /插片裙Either bell shaped panels or inserted additional material allow the hem to swing out. 通过裁剪钟形裁片或插入镶片面料,使下摆展开。Tiered/ 塔裙The successive horizontal panels increase in width towards the hem. 相继横向破缝,并逐层增加宽度。Yoke style/育 克裙A straight section is added from the waist to ab

25、out hip height. 在腰线至臀围附近加上的平直部分,成为育克。Frilled hemline/ 花边裙The ruffled hem edging can be either straight or flounced. 下摆花边可以是直的,也可以是荷叶边。Pleats/褶裥裙Pleats allow freedom of movement whilst maintaining a slim silhouette. 褶裥可以增加运动的自由度,同时还可以保持苗条的外型。Causal /休闲裙Big pocket and a button-through front are typica

26、l details in a casual skirt. 大口袋以及前面的通开扣是休闲裙典型的细部特征。5 Pants/裤子Until relatively trousers were worn exclusively by males. Today they are commonly found in the female wardrobe. The various styles of trousers have developed mainly from different functional uses, but they are also influenced to a greater

27、 or lesser extent by fashion. 以往裤子只属于男性。如今裤装已经普遍存在于妇女的衣橱里了。5.1 Pants details/裤子细部Belt loop 裤襻,double pleated front 双褶裥,center crease裤中线,inseam 内缝,waist-band 裤腰, side pocket 侧袋,side seam 侧缝,turn-up 翻折裤脚5.2 Pants design variation/裤子款式设计Short/运动短裤Very short trousers. Hot pants are skintight women sshor

28、ts. 非常短的裤子。很紧身的女短裤称为热裤。Bermuda shorts/百慕大短裤Wide shorts reaching to just above the knee.很宽大的短裤 ,长度正好在膝盖上面 .Tapered/锥形裤The legs are significantly narrower at the bottom.裤腿非常小的裤子 .Straight/直筒裤Narrow at the hips, legs the same width all the way down.臀部合体 ,整个裤腿保持同一宽度 .Jeans/牛 仔裤Characteristics are bold t

29、op-stitched seams, studs and leather patches. 其显著特点表现在粗双明线、装饰铆钉以及皮革商标贴片。Flared /喇叭裤Closely fitted at the top but legs wider at the foot than at the knee. 上半部非常紧身,裤脚宽度宽于膝盖处。Harem pants/ 灯笼裤Very long, wide trousers with a tight cuff.带有紧裤脚的宽松长裤Culottes/裙裤These are calf length with a wide cut.长及小腿的宽腿裤。6

30、 Suits/套 装Since the end of the nineteenth century, putting together several items of clothing to form a whole outfit has been part of the sophisticated male and female wardrobe. Whilst the earlier classic combinations such as the ensemble and complete always formed a complete outfit and were also ma

31、inly made of the same material. Today sunconventional combination fashion allows outfits to be put together according to individual taste. The suit consist of a jacket and skirt or trousers and is possibly accompanied by a waist-coat.自从 19 世纪末以来,将几件单品服装配在一起组成的套装,已经成为当今讲究男女士衣橱 的一部分了。 早些时候, 传统套装的每件服装都

32、是采用同种面料。 今天非传统套装可以根据 个人喜好来搭配。套装由上衣与裙子或裤子组成,有时也可能包括马甲。6.1 mens outfits/男套装Blazer combination/ 组合套装The causal, but smart jacket is usually of one color and has metal buttons. There are both single and double-breasted designs. 这种休闲而优雅的套装通常采用单色面料以及金属扣,单排扣、双排扣均可。Business suit办、公套装A single0breasted suit,

33、often with a waistcoat, or a double-breasted suit pointed lapels; usually made of dark, elegant fabric.单排扣西服套装通常配有西服背心, 而双排扣套装则配以尖角翻驳领。 常用优雅的深色面料。Leisure suit/休闲套装The blouson style jacket with a button placket and cuffed sleeved is generally chosen. They are often unlined.这种紧摆式套装带有前襟明贴边、带袖衩以及克夫袖口的袖子

34、通常扣合。Traditional suits/ 传统套装The characteristics of the jacket reflect local or regional historical- culture traditional style. The illustration is based on alpine traditions. 这类套装的特点是反映某一区域历史文化的传统风格。图中反映的是阿尔卑斯传统风格。6.2 Women outfits/女套装Tailored suit/精制西服套装The strong, masculine finish as well as high

35、quality classic material are characteristics of the tailored suit.精制西服套装的特点是具有阳刚性,采用男装挺括的工艺处理及高档经典面料。Chanel suit/夏奈尔套装The generic name for a suit designed by Chanel, or a similar suit. It employs Chanel tweed and features hem-stitching. Often made in collarless cardigan style. 指夏奈尔品牌套装或类似款式的套装。 采用夏奈

36、尔粗呢, 其主要特点是镶边、 通常为无领开 襟。Causal suits/休 闲套装They generally have a less severe finish as well as popular technical details in the cut. Combinations of material and decoration are frequently used. The suits are usually described according to the design of the jacket of the style.通常较少挺括处理, 裁剪方面采用一些流行的技术细

37、节。 有时会采用不同面料的组合和装饰。 这类套装通常根据上衣款式或整体风格进行描述。Two-piece/两件套装裙A suit in the style of a dress. The jacket dress consists of a skirt and soft jacket top. 这是一种连衣裙式的套装。这种套装由短裙和柔性上衣构成。Coordinates/调和套装They are made out of matching material. Matching material can have the same pattern but be of different fabric

38、. Alternatively, it can have the same pattern on different scale or in different colors. Finally, the fabric can also be patterned differently but have the same coloring.调和套装采用相互匹配的面料。 面料可以是不同种材质而同种图案, 也可以是不同大小的同 种图案或不同颜色的同种图案,还可以同种颜色不同图案。Trouser suit/ 裤子套装The combination of trousers and a jacket or

39、 top is now an essential part of he wardrobe. 裤子与西服上衣的搭配现在已经是女性衣橱里的基本组合了。Separates/套装单品A collection of coordinating garments, displayed and sold as separate items. The purchaser selects from the range to produce an outfit.套装单品在商店里是分开陈列、单独销售的。顾客选择单品后自行搭配成套装。Ensemble/对比套装The ensemble puts together ite

40、ms of clothing which complement each other in style and material to form a whole outfit.将相互映衬的单品相互组合,在款式和面料方面形成一个整体的套装。Complete/完整套装The complete is a combination of a suit with a coat or long jacket. 这是一种套装与大衣或长外衣组合的套装。6.3 Formal dressFormal dress describes men s and women s clothing for official or

41、 festival occasions. Distinctions are made between the wardrobes for the day and the evening. Apart from the classic or formal styles of clothing, modern or unconventional styles have developed. Although these styles are not as severe, they are nevertheless clearly distinguishable from daywear. 礼服是指

42、男士或女士在正式场合或节日庆典场合穿着的服装。 衣橱中的礼服区别于日常装和 晚装。 除了经典的或正式风格的礼服以外, 还有晨礼服或称非传统风格的半礼服。 尽管晨礼 服工艺上要求不是那么高,但还是很容易与日常装区分的。Formal day suit consists of a dark jacket, striped trousers without turn-up and a gray waistcoat. The tie can be discreetly patterned. Women wear elegant suit or to-piece to official occasions

43、. 正式常礼服由深色上衣、 无卷边条纹裤、 灰色西服背心组成。 领带采用典雅的图案。女士正 式场合可以穿着优雅的套装或两件套裙装。The cutaway or morning suit is the very formal daytime attire. The tails of the black jacket are cut back in a curve form the single, fastened button. It is worn with striped trousers, a gray waistcoat and a broad silver-gray silk tie,

44、 or cravat. Alternatively, the whole outfit can be gray. 圆角常礼服或晨礼服是一种非常正式的常礼服。 后拖尾部分从前面扣位处曲线裁剪, 单排扣。 与条纹裤、灰色西服背心、银灰色领带或领巾相配。整身套杂混岗也可以是灰色。The Spencer suit is gaining popularity among the younger generation, as unconventional wedding suit. The waist length Spencer has a fitted cut.短西服套装作为一种非常规的婚礼服在年轻一代中很流行。齐腰长的上衣裁剪得很合体。The black single breasted dinner jacket ( tuxedo) is part of the classic evening dress suit. The characteristic are silk covered,

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