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1、The boiling river of the AmazonAs a boy in Lima, my grandfather told mea legend?of the Spanish conquest of Peru. Atahualpa, emperor of the Inca, had been captured and killed. Pizarro and his conquistadors had grown rich, and tales of theirconquest and gloryhad reached Spain and were bringingnew wave

2、s of Spaniards, hungry for goldand glory. They w ould go into tow ns and ask the In ca, "Where's ano ther civilizati on we can conq uer? Where's more gold?"小时候,我住在利马;爷爷给我讲了一个关于-?西班牙征服秘鲁的传奇故事。印加帝国的末代皇帝阿塔瓦尔帕,被抓住并处死。皮萨罗和征服者们变得富有起来,他们攻克秘鲁的传说和赞颂传到了西班牙,吸引了一批西班牙人来此淘金。他们去 到镇子里,问印加人:“还有哪个文明

3、没被攻克还有哪里有黄金”And the Inca, out of vengeanee, told them, "Go to the Amazon. You'll find all the gold you want there. In fact, there is a city called Paititi - El Dorado in Spa nish - made en tirely of gold."而出于报复,印加人就告诉他们:“去亚马逊,?那里有挖不完的黄金”。事实上,那里有一个叫做帕依提提一一西班牙语叫El Dorado的城市是由黄金建成的”。The S

4、panish set off into the jungle,?but the few that returncomebackwith stories, stories of powerful shamans, of warriors with poisoned arrows, of trees so tall that they blotted out the sun, spiders that ate birds, snakes that swallowed men whole and a river that boiled.于是这些西班牙人动身前往那片丛林,结果只有少数人带着故事回来了,

5、他们带回了关于强大的萨满巫师的故事,关于拿着毒箭的武士的故事,关于那里的树太 高以至遮住了阳光的故事,关于吃鸟的蜘蛛、能够吞下一整个人的大蛇,以及一条沸腾的河流的故事。All this became a childhood memory. And years passed. I'm work ing on myPhD at SMU, trying to understand Peru's geothermal energy potential,whenI remember this lege nd,and I bega n ask ing that questi on.Coul

6、d the boili ngriver exist?所有这些都成为了我的童年记忆。多年过去了,我到了南方为理公会大学(SMU攻读博士学位,当我试着了解秘鲁的地热能源潜力时,我想到了这个传说,于是想到了一个问题。传说中的那条沸腾的河流真的存在吗I asked colleagues from universities, the government, oil, gas and mining companies, and the answer was a unanimous no. And this makes sense. You see, boiling, rersdo .exist _ _in

7、_ _th_e . wor,_ _ _but_ .they're _._.generally associated with_volcanoes. You need a powerful heat source to produce such a large geothermal manifestation.And as you can see from the red dots here, which are volcanoes,we don't have volcanoes in the Amazon,nor in most of Peru. So it follows :

8、We should not expect to see a boili ng river.我咨询了一些同僚,他们来自各大高校,?政府部门,石油、天然气和矿业公司,所有人的答案都是“不”。这个答案是有道理的。因为沸腾的河流的确存在,但通常是在火山旁。只有一个强大的热源,才制造出如此大的地热现象。你看到的这些红点,它们代表火山,而在亚马逊是没有火山的,秘鲁的大部分地区也没有火山。所以得出的结论为:这片区域看不到沸腾的河流。Geothermal en ergy is produced by heat from in side the earth.As a boy in Lima, my gran d

9、father told me a lege nd?of the Spanishconq uest of Peru.Telli ng this same story at a family dinn er,?my aunt tells me, ?"But no,An dr e s, I've bee n there. I've swum in that river."在一次家庭聚餐上我又讲了这个故事,然后我的阿姨告诉我,“不,安德烈,我去过那,我在那条河里游过泳”。The n my un cle jumps in. "No, An dr e s, s

10、he's not kidd ing. You see, you can only swim in it after a very heavy rain, and it's protected by a powerful shaman. Your aunt, she's friends with his wife."然后我叔叔也加入了讨论,”真的,安德烈,她没有幵玩笑,只有在大雨过后,才能在里面游泳,它被一位强大的萨满巫师保护着,而你的阿姨,跟他的妻子是朋 友”。You know, despite all my scientificskepticism , I

11、found myself hikinginto the jungle , guided by myaunt, over 700 kilometers away from the nearest volca nic cen ter, ?and well, hon estly, men tally prepari ng myself to behold the lege ndary "warm stream of the Amaz on."尽管我作为科学家,对此表示怀疑,?还是在我的阿姨带领下,踏上了那片丛林,? 那里距最近的火山口有 700公里,?坦白说,我已经做好了见证那条

12、传奇的 ? “亚马 逊暖流”的心理准备了。But the n ?I heard someth in g,?a low surge?that got louder and louder as we came closer.?It soun ded like ocea n waves con sta ntly crashi ng, and aswe got closer, I saw smoke, vapor, coming up through the trees. And then, I saw this.但是,紧接着,我听到一些声响,随着我们逐步走进,一股低涌-变得越来越响彻。就像海浪不停的

13、冲击一样,而当我们走近时,我看到烟雾和蒸汽从树林中冒出。不久,我看到了这个。I immediately grabbed for my thermometer, and the average temperaturesin the river?were 86 degrees C. This is not quite the 100-degree C boili ngbut defi nitely close eno ugh. The river flowed hot and fast.?l followed itupriver and was led by, actually, the sham

14、an's apprentice?to the most sacredsite on the river. And this is what's bizarre - It starts off as a coldstream.?And here, at this site, is the home of the Yacumama, mother of thewaters, a giant serpent spirit who births hot and cold water. And here wefind a hot spri ng,?mix ing with cold st

15、ream water undern eath her protectivemotherly jaws?a nd thus bringing their lege nds to life.我立马拿起了温度计,测量到这条河流的平均温度为 ?86C。虽然这并没有达到100C 的沸点,但也很接近了。这条高温河水流湍急。在这位萨满大师徒弟的带领下,我沿河而上,去往这条河最神圣的地点。奇妙的事情发生了,这条河的起点是冷流。而这个地方,是亚库马马的故乡,亚库马马是河之母,是创造冷热水的?巨大的蛇灵。 而在这里,我们找到了一处热泉,同受她保护的河口下的冷流混合在一起,?将这些传说变为现实。I asked fo

16、r tea.?l was handed a mug, a tea bag?and, well, pointed towards the river.?To mysurprise, the water was clean and had a pleasant taste,?which is a little weird for geothermal systems.我说想喝杯茶。?于是有人递给我一个马克杯,一个茶包,?然后,指着那条河。?让我惊讶的是,河水是如此的清澈,喝起来也很可口,?这对于地热系统来说是有点异常的。What was amaz ing is that the locals ha

17、d always known about this place, and that I was by no means the first outsider to see it. It was just part of their everyday life. They drink its water. They take in its vapor. They cook with it, clea n with it, eve n make their medic ines with it.更神奇的一点是,本地人似乎一直都知道有这么个地方,而我也绝不是第一个 发现此地的外来人。这些都是他们的家

18、常便饭。?他们饮用河里的水;享用这些蒸汽; 用河水烹饪;清洁,?甚至用这些河水来制药。I met the shama n,?and he seemed like an exte nsion of the river and his jun gle.?He asked for my inten ti on s?a nd liste ned carefully.?The n, to my treme ndous relief -?I was freak ing out, to be hon est with you -?a smile bega n to sn ake across his fac

19、e, and he just laughed.我见到了萨满大师,?似乎他也成了这条河和丛林的一部分。 他询问我的来意,? 用心倾听。不久,我便感到压力减轻了 -?老实告诉你,我当时可吓坏了 -他嘴角 微微上扬,他笑了。I had received the shaman's blessing to study the river,?onthe conditionthat after I take the water samples?and analyze them in my lab, wherever I was in the world,?that I pour the waters

20、 back into the groun d?so that, as the shama n said,?the waters could find their way back home.我对这条河的研究得到了萨满大师的祝福,他只有一点要求,那便是待我取样 并带回实验室分析后,不管我在世界的哪一个角落,我要把这些水倒回地上,萨满 大师说,这样这些水便能回到河流里。Despite his skepticism, he was still expect ing to see the boili ng river.He promised to pour the water samples back

21、 into the ground after an alyz ing them in his lab.He was freak ing out whe n the shama n asked about his inten tio ns.He immediately grabbed his thermometer to measure the river ' s temperature.I've been back every year since that first visit in 2011, and thefieldwork has bee n exhilarat in

22、 g,?dema ndingand at times dan gerous. On estorywas eve n featured in Nati onal Geographic Magaz in e. I was trapped on a small rock about the size of a sheet of paper ?in san dals and board shorts, ?inbetwee n an 80 degree C river?a nd a hot spri ng that, well, looked like this,close to boili ng.?A

23、 nd on top of that, it was Amaz on rain forest. Pshh, pouri ng rain, could n't see a thin g.?The temperature differe ntialmade it all white.It was a whiteout.? Inten se.2011年的勘测后,我每年都会回去,?我的勘测结果甚是喜人,?有些时候也颇?我被困在有些危险和挑战。?我的故事甚至被刊登到了国家地理这本杂志上了和一张纸一样大小的石头上, ?穿着凉鞋和运动短裤,置身于 80C的河水?和接近 沸点的温泉中。?不仅如此,那还

24、是在亚马逊雨林。?那是倾盆大雨,什么也看不见。? 温差使得周围的一切看起来都是白色的。?局势很紧张。Now, after years of work,?门I soon be submitting my geophysical andgeochemical studies for publication.?AndI'd like to share, today, with allof you here, on the TEDstage,?for the first time, someof these discoveries.现在,经过多年的研究,?我即将发表关于地球物理和化学的论文。?

25、今天站在TED的舞台上,我想和大家一起分享,?这也是我首次揭露其中的一些发现。Well, first off, it's not a lege nd.?Surprise!首先,这并不是一个传说。?意想不到吧!When I first started the research,?the satellite imagery was toolow-resolutionto be meaningful.? There were just no good maps.?Thanks to thesupport of the Google Earth team,?I now have this.?N

26、ot only that, theindigenous nameof the river, Shanay-timpishka,?"boiled with the heat of the sun,” in dicates that I'm not the first towon der why the river boils,?a ndshowing thathumanity has always sought to explain the world around us.在我最初幵始这项研究的时候,?有关的卫星图像像素很低,几乎没什么用。?那时就没什么高质量的地图。?多亏了谷

27、歌地球这个团队,?现在我有了这个。?不仅 如此,这条河的本名Shanay-timpishka , ?"由太阳烧幵的河“ ?说明我并不是第一个对这条河沸腾感到好奇的人,?也说明了人类一直以来都尝试着去解释?我们生活的世界。这些图像是我花了三年It actually took me three years to get that footage. 时间收集来的。Fault-fed hot spri ngs. As we have hot blood running through our veinsand arteries, so, too, the earth has hot wate

28、r running through its cracksand faults. Where these arteries come to the surface, these earth arteries, we'll get geothermal manifestations:fumaroles, hot springs and in our case,the boiling river.地质断层滋长温泉。?正如人类体内的血管和动脉里流动着热血一样,?地球的裂缝和断层里也流淌着热水。?那些在地球表面的”动脉“,?就是地热表现:?喷气 孔,温泉,正是我们这里的沸腾河。What'

29、s truly in credible, though, is the scale of this place.?Next timeyou cross the road, think about this.The river flows wider tha n a two-la neroad along most of its path.It flows hot for 6.24 kilometers. Trulyimpressive. T here are thermal pools larger tha n this TED stage,and thatwaterfall that you

30、 see there?is six meters tall-?and all with near-boilingwater.然而,真正难以置信的是这条河的规模之大。?下次当你过马路的时候,不妨这样想想。这条河大部分流经地的宽度?超过双车道的马路。?而热水流经长度为6.24 千米。?真是叹为观止。?有些热泉比TED的舞台还要大,?而你看到的那个瀑布,? 其实有6米高-?全部都接近沸点的河水。Wemappedthe temperatures along the river, and this was by far the most dema nding part of the fieldwork.

31、 And the results were just awesome.?Sorry-the geoscientist in me coming out. And it showed this amazing trend. Yousee, the river starts off cold.?It then heats up, cools back down, heats up,cools back dow n, ?heats up aga in, and the n has this beautiful decay curve?until it smashes into this cold r

32、iver.我们按照河水的温度制作地图,?这项工作也是目前最为困难的部分。?出来的结果真是了不起。?抱歉,我是个地理科学迷这事儿暴露了。?我们的结论展示出了一种趋势。?你看,这条河的河口是冷水。?接下来逐渐升温,再降温,再升,又降,? 再次升温,于是有了这些可爱的衰减曲线,直到最后奔腾进冰冷的河水中。Now, I un dersta nd not all of you are geothermal scie ntists,?so to putit in more everyday terms:?Every one loves coffee. ?Y es? Good. ?Your regularc

33、up of coffee, 54 degrees C,?a n extra-hot one, well, 6O.So, put in coffeeshop terms,?the boiling river plotslike this.?There you haveyour hot coffee.?Here you have your extra-hot coffee,?a nd you can see that there's a bit point there?where the river is still hotter than even the extra-hot?We to

34、ok these in the drycoffee.?A nd these are average water temperatures.seas on to en sure the purest geothermal temperatures.我知道在座的有些并不是研究地热科学的,所以,用日常生活来举个例子:?人人都爱咖啡。?对吗?一杯普通的咖啡是54C,?特别烫的咖啡是60C。?所以用咖 啡的例子来说,?沸腾的河水看起来是这样的。?这是一杯热咖啡。?这是加热的咖啡,? 可以看到这里有一个尖尖的地方, ?那就是这条河要比特别烫的咖啡还要烫。 ?这些 是水的平均温度。?这些都是在干燥的季节采集

35、的样品,为了保证得到最纯粹的地 热温度。But there's a magic number here that's not being shown,?and that number is 47 degrees C,?because that's where things start to hurt,?a nd I know this from very personal experience.?Above that temperature, you don't want to get in that water. ?You n eed to be carefu

36、l.?It can be deadly.但有一个神奇的数字并没有显示出来,?那就是47C, ?因为这是有害的临界点我知道这一点是因为我自己有过这样的经历。?超过47C之后,没有人会想站在那里。?你得格外小心。?因为这可能是致命的。r ve see n all sorts of ani mals fall in,?and what's shock ing to me, isthe process is pretty much the same.?So they fall in and the first thing togo are the eyes. Eyes, apparently,

37、cook very quickly. They turn thismilky-white color.?The stream is carrying them.?They're trying to swim out, but their meat is cooking on the bone?because it's so hot.?So they're losing power, los ing power,? un til fin ally they get to a point where hot water goes into their mouths?a nd

38、 they cook from the in side out.我看到各种各样的动物掉入河里,?让我感到惊讶的是,整个过程几乎都雷同的。当它们掉进河里时,第一个受到伤害的便是眼睛。?眼睛显然不用煮多久,便成了奶白色。?河流把它们卷走。?虽然它们试着游上岸,但是他们正在被由外到内烹饪着,因为温度实在太高了。?于是,它们渐渐地失去了力气,?最后热水冲进了嘴里,从内外外烹饪的过程幵始了。Wha' s truly in credible, though, is the scale of this place.We took these in the dry seas on to en sure

39、 the purest geothermal temperatures.这些都是在干燥的季节采集的样品,为了保证得到最纯粹的地热温度。| -1-.;- -1- .-1 1 -."-i- j- msqIt in dicates that huma nity has always sought to expla in the worldarou nd us.也说明了人类一直以来都尝试着去解释?我们生活的世界。A bit sadistic, aren't we? Jeez. Leave them mari nati ng for a little Ion ger. What'

40、;s, again, amazing are these temperatures. They're similar to things that r ve see n on volca noes all over the world and eve n super-volca noes like Yellowst one.有点让人难过,不是吗天呐。让它们在腌制一会儿。另一个神奇之处便是温度。 这些河的温度和我所见过的火山差不多,甚至类似于黄石的超级火山。But here's the thing: the data is showing that the boiling riv

41、er existsindependent of volcanism. It's neither magmatic or volcanic in origin, and aga in, over 700 kilometers away from the n earest volca nic cen ter.但有意思的是:?根据数据,这条沸腾河?和火山并不是共存关系。这和磁场或 火山都没关系,再强调一次,最近的火山离这里也有700公里远。How can a boiling river exist like this? I've asked geothermal expertsand

42、 volcanologistsfor years, and I'm stillunable to find anothernon-volcanic geothermal system of this magnitude . It's unique. It's special on a global scale . So, still - how does it work? Where do we get this heat?There's still more research to be done to better con strain the proble

43、m andbetter understand the system, but from what the data is telling us now,?it looks to be the result of a large hydrothermal system.这样一条沸腾的河流是怎么形成的呢多年来,我询问了许多地热专家和火山研 究者们,至今也没能找到另外一个非火山的地热系统,?有如此大的规模。这是独一无二的。在全球范围内来说都是特别的。但,它到底是怎么运作的呢这些热量从哪里来的人们还要做许多的研究才能更好的控制这个问题并理解这种系统,但从目 前我们获得的数据看,?似乎是由大型热泉系统导

44、致的。Basically, it works like this: So, the deeper you go into the earth, thehotter it gets.?We refer to this as the geothermal gradient.?The waters could be coming from as far away as glaciers in the An des, the n seep ing dow n deepinto the earth and coming out to form the boilingriver after getting

45、 heatedup from the geothermal gradie nt,?all due to this unique geologic sett ing.概括起来便是:越接近地球核心,温度越高。我们称此为地热梯度。这些水可 能是遥远的安第斯山脉冰川融水, 逐渐渗透入地球核心,然后以沸腾河的形式流出, 在受到地热梯度的加热之后,?这一切都归功于这种独特的地质特征。Now, we found that in and around the river -?this is working with colleagues?from Natio nal Geographic, Dr. Spen

46、cer Wells, and Dr. Jon Eise n from UCDavis - we geneticallysequeneed the extremophile life forms livingin and around the river, and have found new life forms, unique species living in the boiling river.目前,我们发现这条河里以及附近,我同几位来自国家地理的同事一起,来自 国家地理的威尔士博士,来自UCDavis的埃森博士 -我们对生活在河里以及周边的生物-进行了基因排序,并且找到了新的生命形式,

47、生活在沸腾河里的独特生物。But aga in, despite all of these studies, all of these discoveries andthe lege nds, a questi on rema ins: What is the sig ni fica neeof the boili ng river?What is the sig ni fica nee of this stati onary cloud that always hovers overthis patch of jungle? And what is the significaneeof a

48、detail in a childhoodlege nd?但,尽管有这些研究,这些发现和传说,仍有一个问题萦绕人心:沸腾河的存 在有重要意义吗那片笼罩丛林的静止的云的存在有什么意义呢再者,童年时代听到 的传说又有什么重要性呢To the shama n and his com muni ty, it's a sacred site.?To me, as ageoscientist,it's a unique geothermal phenomenon. But to the illegal loggers and cattle farmers, it's just an

49、other resource to exploit. And to the Peruviangovernment,it's justanother st retch of unprotectedland ready fordevelopme nt.对萨满大师和那里的居民来说,这是一个神圣的地方。对我来说,作为一名地 球学家,这是独特的地热现象。但对于非法伐木和畜牧农场主来说,这只不过是另 一个可以幵采的地方而已。而对于秘鲁政府来说,这只不过是另一个未受保护的地 方等待被幵发而已。My goal is to en sure that whoever con trols this land un dersta nds theboiling river's uniqueness and si

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