2026年秋冬男装时装周报告-

Men’sFall/Winter‘26Fashion

WeekReportFebruary2026DRIESVAN

NOTENThe

Men’s

FallWinter2026seasonarrivedwith

aclearmessage:theeraof“just

blending

in”isofficiallyover.Astheindustrygathered

ina

postminimalism

landscape,the

runways

shiftedtowardamorecinematicand

intentionalway

ofdressing,creatingaseasonthatfeelsdeeplyatmospheric.Asthetrendcycleslowsdown,

FW26asks

ustocommittoacharacter.Whetherleaning

intothedarkcharismaofthe“Villain”ortheperformativedepthofthe“Intellectual,”

thisseasonbringsbackcharactersratherthanpreciseaesthetics.Nostalgiaalsoplaysa

part,

but

not

in

a

retroway,ifretroisobjective,

nostalgia

is

subjective

andmoreofanemotionallonging

into

a

sentimentalyearningforaperiod.Asentimentalyearningforaperiodoftimethatfeels

morestable,

orperhaps

justmoresoulful,thanourown.

If

retro

isthestyle,the"look,"nostalgia

isthe

feeling,thevibe.“Thesuitisa

uniformofthe

spirit,”wasthevibeat

Armani,whereanewera

began

with

a

heavy

doseofrespectforthepast.Thatsense

ofevolutionandhomagerippledthrough

every

city.At

Prada,wesawabrilliant,

slightly

franticdialogueabout"uncomfortableelegance,"whileoverat

Ralph

Lauren’s

long-awaited

Milancomeback,themoodwaspurecinematic

nostalgia.Thisisaseasonforthestorytellers.

Whetheryou

aresteppingintoa

library

or

a

luxury

ski

chalet,FW26demandsthatyoudosowitha

point

ofview.Theseexplorationsandinnovationsare

reflectedinourfourdominantthemesspottedonthemen’sAW26runway:

Malevolent

Etiquette,Intellectual

Literacy,Surrealistic

Playgroundand

EleganzaAlpina.EditoASeasonof

Characters───

INDEX1

───

2

───

3

───4

───CitySpotlightThetoprunwaytrends,dividedby

city,

analyzedby

ourAIBrand

ActivationsInsightspoweredby

LYWatch

into

how

brandsactivated

across

product,communication

and

retailduringFashion

Week.ThematicTrend

AnalysisStandout

colors,prints,fabrics,silhouettes,and

accessories

of

the

seasonStarTrendsSeehowthemostcommontrendswereadapted

in

different

waysJumpin

…471047HERMÈS1Howarethemaintrendsfromfashionweeksdistributedinthedifferentfashion

capitals?

What

stands

out

asthemacrotrendsin

Milanor

Paris?

Let'slookatthebigger

picture

ofwhat

emerged

fromthese

collections.WILLY

CHAVARRIACitySpotlightPinstripes4.6%Runwayshare+86%

vsFW‘251.MandarinCollarTops3.4%Runwayshare+157%

vs

FW‘251.+2%Forecastvs

lastyear2.2.1.

UMAWANG2.SETCHU1.SOSHI

OTSUKI2.

BRIONIMilanFW26balancesheritagewith

experimentation,wherefamiliarcodes

are

pushed

into

richer,

more

directionalterritory.

Purple,

alreadyhighlighted

as

a

startrend

in

SS26,

continues

its

runway

momentum

indeeper,

moresaturated

hues,

reachinga

5.7%

runwayshare.

Pinstripesevolvebeyondclassictailoring,reworked

into

edgier

silhouettes

atSetchuand

UmaWang,drivingastrong

+86%

growth

versus

FW25.Mandarin

Collar

Tops

emerge

as

a

standout

neckline

of

the

season,postinga+157%

increasecompared

to

last

year,

with

consumeradoption

forecasted

to

rise

by

2%

in

FW26.

Milan

shows

howestablishedcodescanberefreshedthroughsaturation,proportion,and

unexpected

construction.1.0%Forecastvs

lastyearPurple5.7%Runwayshare+14%

vs

FW‘25+3%Forecastvs

lastyear2.ToptrendsMilan1.

PRADA2.

GIORGIOARMANIScope:

Europe,

men.Checked11%Shareof

PostsCoolTones32%Shareof

PostsAt

Heuritech,

we

specialize

in

consumer

data,

focusingonwhattheend

consumer

is

actually

wearing.

While

wealso

have

runwaydata

whichremainsanimportantreference

infashion,it

is

alsovaluable

to

consideranother

influentialgroup:showattendees.On

this

slide,

we

analyze

street

style

adoption

amongattendees

in

Florence

during

Pitti

Uomo

FW26,

offeringa

glimpse

into

what

fashion

forward

industry

insidersarewearingofftherunway.

Using

ourAI,

wehavedetected

key

trends

from

street

style

imagery

at

PittiUomoto

identifywhichdirectionsaregaining

relevance.ToptrendsAdoptionin

FlorenceStreetStyleWoolen24%Shareof

PostsPlenty

of

looks

were

detected

featuring

cooltones

among

attendees

at

Pitti

Uomo,withoutfits

highlighting

classic

blue

denim

aswellas

layered

looks

invariousshades

of

blue.Afabricthattrulydefines

FallWinter

iswool,which

emerged

as

the

most

adopted

fabricacross

street

style

looks

at

Pitti

Uomo

with

ashare

of

24%.Apartfrom

plainandall-over

prints,

checkedemerged

as

the

standout

pattern

amongattendeesat

Pitti

Uomo,appearing

in

11%ofallstreet

style

images.2FashionWeekevolvedintoastagefor

immersivestorytelling,

captured

by

LY

Watch,

Luxurynsight’splatformtrackingbrandactivationsacrossProduct,Communication

and

Retail.DIORBrandActivationspowered

byLY

WatchMen’s

Milan

Fashion

Weekwasemotionally

anchored

by

thepassing

of

Valentino

and

Giorgio

Armani’s

first

collectionfollowing

the

founder's

passing.

The

impending

Milan

Cortina2026

Winter

Olympics

cast

a

long

shadow

over

the

runways,manifesting

in

sport

oriented

collections

fromDsquared2,EmporioArmanior

Li-Ning.Some

key

retailactivationsalsotook

placethroughoutthe

month

in

Milan,

includingtheopeningof

Polène’sfirstflagshipstore

in

Italy,

markingasignificant

stepin

the

brand's

global

expansion.

Seizing

the

momentum

of

theevent,RobertoCavalliandRetoribothunveiled

newflagshipstore

in

the

city.

Overall,

data

indicate

that

brand

activationsslightly

increased

driven

communication.First

MilanStoreRetori

has

opened

itsfirst

flagship

store

in

Milan,located

on

Via

della

Spiga

48.

The

400

sq

mt

space,spans

two

levels

and

featuresa

wall

installation

byTadao

Andoandeclectic

furnishings.

Thestore

willhostartexhibitions,

creativeworkshops,

andimmersiveperformances.Post-Show

DinnerPrada

hosted

a

post-show

dinner

at

Ristorante

Torrefollowing

its

Menswear

FW26

presentation

duringMilan

Fashion

Week.MiucciaPrada

and

Raf

Simonswelcomed

an

array

of

guests,

including

RauwAlejandro,Giovanni

Caccamo,

JackHarlow,

TroyeSivan,and

many

others.New

Milan

FlagshipRoberto

Cavalli

has

relocated

its

atelier

to

Milan’sQuadrilatero

della

Moda,

opening

a

160

sq

mt

store

onVia

Santo

Spirito.

The

two-floor

space

will

feature

thebrand’s

ready-to-wear

collectionsfor

men

andwomen,as

well

as

fragrances,

eyewear,

accessories,

footwear,

and

homeproductsdesigned

by

Fausto

Puglisi.First

MilanStorePolène

has

opened

itsfirst

flagship

storein

Italy,located

on

Via

Alessandro

Manzoni

in

Milan.

The

343

sq

mt

boutique

marks

a

significant

step

inthe

brand'sglobal

expansion.

The

store

features

a

gradient

colorpalette

and

ceramic

pieces

by

Italian

artist

ClaraGrazolino.BrandActivationsMilanRobertoCavalliPolèneRetoriPradaPowered

by

LYWatchPitti

Uomo

109

has

drawn

approximately

19,000visitors,

with

anotablesurge

in

internationalattendancefromthe

UK,

USA,andJapan.Theeditionwasanchored

bythreevisionaryguests:

HedMayner,

SoshiOtsuki,andShinyaKozuka,whilemajorbrandactivations

bridged

the

gap

between

heritage

and

lifestyle.

Wenotablysawthe

returnofWoolrichvia

a

brandedinstallation

as

well

as

Herno’s

immersive

"Alpine

Lodge."

In

theluxury

segment,

Zegna

participated

inthe

"Salon

of

Excellence",

featuringinternationaltailorsinterpretingZegnafabricsthrough

the

lens

of

Olympicwintersports,whileBrunello

Cucinellihostedits

annual

dinnerinthegrandballroomofPalazzoCorsini,a

baroque

palaceoverlookingtheArno

River.Brand

InstallationWoolrichsetupandinstallation

designed

as

athematicroomwherethebuffalocheck

patterndressesthesurfacesandcreatesawarm,

deeplyAmericanatmosphere.Thewallsfeaturearchivecatalogs,historicalimages,and

materialtestimonies

ofthebrand's

long

history.BrandActivationsFlorencePalace

Dinner

PartyThe

Brunello

Cucinellidinnerat

Pitti

Uomo

is

heldeachyear

in

the

grand

ballroom

of

Palazzo

Corsini,

abaroque

palace

overlooking

the

Arno

River.

The

eventis

knownfor

hosting

hundreds

of

guests

in

a

luxuriousand

elegant

setting,

with

candlelit

tables

and

a

grandExhibitionConsinee,a

leading

Chinese

producer

of

cashmerefibers

and

luxury

yarns,

makes

its

return

to

Pitti

Uomo,

showcasingmaterialexperimentationthrough

an

installation,

curated

by

Sara

Sozzani

Maino

incollaborationwithGeorgiandesignerGalib

Gassanoff.Salonof

ExcellenceThe

activation

was

powered

by

Lanificio

ErmenegildoZegna

and

featured

bespoketailors

from

Italy,

France,andGermanyinterpretingZegna

fabrics

through

thelensofOlympicwinter

sports.BrunelloCucinelliConsineeWoolrichZegnaPowered

by

LYWatchatmosphere.3ThematicTrends

Analysis

HERMÈSIntellectualLiteracyPost-AlgorithmRomanticism2.1.AMIRI2.

DRIESVAN

NOTEN3.

ETRO4.ACNE

STUDIOS5.

ERL1.3.5.4.5.Welcometotheaverythinkinginacafé

atduskenergytheme.Consumers,especiallyGen

Z,

areincreasinglyseekingdepthand

meaningincultureafteryearsof

hypervisual

andfast

consumption

trends.Thisintellectualliteracy,also

known

asPoetcore,emergesasa

responsetothissaturation,rejecting

instant

gratification

andalgorithmdrivenaesthetics.Viewitas

an

extension

oftheperformativemale,wherebeing

dressedas

intellectual

is

becoming

attractive.Amiripresenteditscollection

inside

a

roomlinedwithprintedlibrary

book

shelves.Bookswereeverywhere,yetsomehowabsent.

Itrecallsthefamiliarsceneofpeoplecarryingbooksinto

cafés,

placingthemcarefullyonthetable,and

rarelyopeningthem.

Readingbecomesagestureratherthananact.IntellectualLiteracyisNostalgia:

It’salongingfor

a

pre-digitalworldwherepeopleactuallysat

in

cafés

and

readphysical

books.Afteryearsofendlessscrolling,intellectfeelsnewlydesirable,

notalways

becausewewanttoengagewithit,

but

becausewe

wanttobeseen

near

it.The

printed

booksreflectawiderculturalhabit

of

appearanceover

commitment,of

signaling

depthwithout

necessarily

stepping

into

it.1.2.IntellectualLiteracyPost-AlgorithmRomanticism4.5.1.

DRIESVAN

NOTEN2.

ETRO3.ACNE

STUDIOS4.

ERLIn

FW26,menswearwillborrowthevisuallanguageofintellectinthewayto

dress

andthecharacterswechoosetoplay

in

aIntellectualLiteracyaesthetic.3.4.Chocolate+7%Purple

Red+2%Intellectual

Literacy

KeyColorsIn

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

BIG

SegmentationALL

Runway

Share:

1.6%Forest

GreenIn

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

MEDIUM

SegmentationALL

RunwayShare:

0.4%In

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

BIGSegmentationALL

RunwayShare:

0.9%+2%Scope:

Europe,

men.1.Intellectual

LiteracyKeyColorsThecolorpaletteforthisthemeisverytypicallyautumnal.Therunwaywasquitefullofgreenlooks,

ranging

from

SagetoForestGreen.

ForestGreen

is

expectedtogrowby+2%

during

FW26.Formenswear,brown

hues

are

still

havingahugemoment.

Many

brown

colors

areforecastedtogrow,includingChocolate,

adark,warmbrownhuethat

is

consideredbeingaRisingStarwithforecasted

growthof+7%.Finally,

Purple

Red,aburgundy-likecolorwithpurpletones,isforecastedtogrow

by+2%.Thisbigtrendhad

faded

for

amomentbutis

now

regainingvisibility.

It

isrelevantforpeoplein

all

segments

andacrossallage

groups.1.

ZEGNA2.AMIRI3.

ETRO4.

BLUEMARBLE5.

PRADA3.2.4.5.Suede-6%Corduroy-7%Intellectual

Literacy

KeyFabricsIn

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

MEDIUM

Segmentation

EDGY

RunwayShare:

1.7%Ribbed

KnitIn

FW26vs.

lastyearMagnitude

MEDIUMSegmentation

EDGY&TRENDY

RunwayShare:

1.5%In

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

MEDIUM

Segmentation

EDGY

RunwayShare:

0.2%0%Scope:

Europe,

men.1.Intellectual

LiteracyKeyFabricsThefabricsforthisthemeareknownfortheirrichtexture,durability,andtimelessappeal.

Ribbedknit,commonly

used

incozysweaters,isexpectedto

maintainsteadyvisibilitywithneitheran

increasenoradeclinecomparedtothe

previousseason.Suedeandcorduroyare

bothforecastedtoseeadeclinein

visibility,

however,theirMedium

magnitude

still

suggestscontinuedmarketdemand,especiallyamong

Edgyconsumers.1.OFFICINE

GÉNERALE2.SOSHI

OTSUKI3.

ZEGNA4.

DAVID

CATALAN5.

HERMÈS3.2.4.5.Plain+1%Checked0%Intellectual

Literacy

KeyPrintsIn

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

MASSIVE

SegmentationALL

RunwayShare:70%ArgyleIn

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

BIGSegmentationALL

RunwayShare:

6.4%Scope:

Europe,

men.1.Intellectual

LiteracyKeyPrintsSssteinfeaturedargyleknits,

as

did

ERL,presentingaversionofchecksthataddsmoredimension.Speakingofchecks,theyareexpectedtomaintainthesame

levelofvisibilityasAW25.Atone-on-toneapproachtochecksisanticipated,alongwithanincreasein

checked

accessories,suchasknittedscarves

or

socks

peekingthrough.Plain

lookswere,asalways,visibleontherunway.2026isexpectedto

be

a

moreprint-heavyyear;comparedtoAW25,plainlookssawaslightdecline

invisibility

of-4%thisseason,accordingtoour

runwaydata.

Lookingintoourconsumerdata,

plainlooksareforecastedtogrow+1%.1.

SSSTEIN2.

BLUEMARBLE3.

PRONOUNCE4.AMIRI5.

ERL3.2.4.5.EbonyBrownOuterwearThin

VerticalStripesPantsKeyShapesHenleyButtonedNeckTops+2%MagnitudeMASSIVESegmentationEDGYRunwayShare

2.5%Like

Old

PagesEbony

Brown,adeepand

rich

shade

of

brown,issetto

bethe

ITcolor

forouterwearthisseason.Amongmen’sneutrals,

Navyhas

longbeen

a

staple

for

outerwear,butit

is

expectedto

decline

inpopularityfortheupcomingfall,withthis

brownhuetaking

over.Ebony

BrownCoatshas

been

spottedacrossseveralshows,including

UmitBenan,

Dior

Men,and

DriesVan

Noten,aswellasonleather

jackets

from

Lemaire.1.

UMIT

BENAN2.

DIOR

MEN3.

DRIESVAN

NOTEN4.

UMAWANG5.

LEMAIRE4.2.3.5.EbonyBrownOuterwearConsistent

RiserMaleScope:

Europe,

men.+5%Consistent

Riser

MaleWrittenin

StripesThinVerticalStripes

Pantsareexpected

togrow+5%during

FW26.Spotted

ontherunwayfrombrandssuchasAmiri,Acne

Studiosand

Dolce&Gabbana.Thetrendhasa

Mediummagnitudeand

is

mainly

adoptedby

Edgyconsumersaged

16-25,followedby

26-35.Waistpleatingdetailed

pants

areforecastedtogrowby+9%

overthe

sameperiod,addingvisualinterest

anddimensiontothesilhouette.1.AMIRI2.ACNE

STUDIOS3.ZEGNA4.

DOLCE

&

GABBANA5.

UMIT

BENANMagnitudeMEDIUMSegmentationEDGYRunwayShare4%2.4.3.5.Thin

VerticalStripesPantsScope:

Europe,

men.Come

BackMale+15%Layered

NarrativesAlthoughthisthemefeaturessomedressiersilhouettes,classiccorepiecesremainessentialtotheoverallaesthetic.Onetopshapeexperiencinga

notablecomebackisthe

Henleybutton

necktop,whichshowsahigh

magnitude

and

isforecastedtogrow+15%.Thebuttonednecklineallows

forversatilestyling,makingit

idealfor

layering

basicteesunderneathandadding

subtleinterestanddepthtoeveryday

looks.1.

PAULSMITH2.

RAG

&

BONE3.

DOLCE

&

GABBANA4.

LAZOSCHMIDL5.

ISABEL

MARANT2.4.3.5.HenleyButtonNeck

TopsSegmentationEDGY&TRENDY

RunwayShare

0.3%MagnitudeBIGScope:

Europe,

men.MoccasinsKnittedScarfsKeyAccessoriesClearLenses+6%From

Libraryto

LoungeMoccasinsaremaking

a

quiet

butconfidentreturnin

menswear,with

aprojectedgrowthof+6%,

largelydriven

by

the

Edgyconsumer.Seenin

green

suedeatZegnaandreworked

in

soft,

suppleleatheratTod’s,Auraleeand

Lemaire,thestylemovesawayfrom

rigidity.Thinsoles

andflexibleuppersgivethe

shoe

a

lighter,morerelaxedfeel,

positioningthemoccasinasaneasy,

modernoptionthatsitssomewherebetweentailoringandcasualwear.1.

ZEGNA2.

KENZO3.

TOD’S4.AURALEE5.

LEMAIREMagnitudeBIGSegmentationEDGYRunwayShare

0.7%2.4.3.5.MoccasinsCome

Back

MaleScope:

Europe,

men.Well-ReadandWell-WrappedScarvesplayan

important

role

inthistheme,workingasanaccessorythatfeelsbothstylishandcomforting.Whatmakesthemespeciallyrightforthis

look

istheuseofcharacter-drivenprints,fromunevenstripestosofttakesonchecks,adding

interest

without

feelingoverworked.Ontherunwaythisseason,

ÉtudesStudioleanedintotheidea

ofthe

oversizedknittedscarf.

Extra-longandeventouchingthefloor,thesepiecesfeelintentionallydramaticyetcozy,madeto

bewrappedupin

and

worn

as

part

oftheoutfit

rather

than

just

an

afterthought.1.

DRIESVAN

NOTEN2.ZEGNA3.

ÉTUDESSTUDIO4.

ETRO5.AGNES

B2.4.3.5.KnittedScarfsThroughthe

Lensof

PoetryGlasseshavebecomethe

quintessentialaccessoryforanyonewantingtoprojectanintellectualvibe.Whetheryouactuallyneedthemforvisioncorrectionorsimplywearthemforbluelight

protection,glassescarryanundeniable

cultural

cachet.Wearingglassesistrulyconsideredcoolinfashionrightnow.A

rounded

rectangleshapewasvisibleontherunwaywith

athickerframe.1.

ZEGNA2.

DOLCE

&

GABBANA3.

GIORGIOARMANI4.MAISON

MIHARAYASUHIRO5.

PAULSMITH2.4.3.5.ClearLensesZEG

NAAMIRI●

IntellectualLiteracy-StarterPackAccessoriesShapesFabricsBrandsColorsPrintsSurrealisticPlaygroundCuratedChaos,Artful

Rebellion1.WALTERVAN

BEIRENDONCK2.

SACAI3.SAUL

NASH4.

EGON

LAB5.JACQUEMUS1.1.2.3.4.4.5.Ahigh-conceptaestheticdefinestheseason,wherethefamiliarityofaplaygroundsettingis

reimaginedthroughthelensof

avant-gardedistortion.SurrealisticPlayground

presentsavisionofmenswearthatnavigatesaworldofexaggeratedproportionsandupendedcultural

references.Thisthemeexploresagallery

ofeccentricity,meticulouslyblendingtraditionaltailoringwithdreamlike,nonsensicaldetails.Primarycolorpalettesare

disrupted

bysharparchitecturalasymmetryandkinetictextures,creatingavisualdialoguebetweenstructure

andspontaneity.Itisasophisticated

study

in

seriousplay,wherethewardrobeservesas

acanvasforabstractself-expressionand

theboundariesbetween

high

art

andfunctionaldressingare

joyfullyblurred.1.2.3.3.SurrealisticPlaygroundCuratedChaos,Artful

Rebellion4.1

SACAI2.SAUL

NASH3.

EGON

LAB4.JACQUEMUSIn

FW26vs.

lastyearMagnitude

BIGSegmentation

EDGY,TRENDY

RunwayShare:

0.6%-1%+0.1%Surrealistic

Playground

KeyColorsIn

FW26vs.

lastyearMagnitude

BIGSegmentation

EDGYRunwayShare:

0.4%Carmine

RedIn

FW26vs.

lastyearMagnitude

MEDIUMSegmentation

EDGY&TRENDY

RunwayShare:

0.2%PineappleYellow+1%Ultramarine

BlueScope:

Europe,

men.1.Surrealistic

Playground

KeyColorsTheSurrealisticPlaygroundpalettecapturesasenseofdistortedrealitythroughhigh-impactcontrastsandgrounded,bold

hues.

CarmineRedtakescenterstagewitha

solid+1%

rise

inforecasted

consumer

adoption,injecting

avibrant

punctuation

mark

into

sculpturalsilhouettes.This

is

complemented

byUltramarine

Blue,up+0.1%,whichadds

a

layerofsurrealistdepthandedgycalmto

statementpieces.While

PineappleYellowremainsa

key

partofthelandscapewitha0.2%

runway

share,

itsadoptionisforecastedtodecline

by-1%,suggestingamorecalculated,

nicheapplicationamongconsumers.Together,thesecolors

create

a

tribute

to

fearlessself-expressionandplayfuldrama.1.AMIRI2.3.PARADIS3.

DIOR

MEN4.WILLY

CHAVARRIA5.SHINYA

KOZUKA3.2.4.4.5.Surrealistic

Playground

KeyFabricsJersey+2%In

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

MEDIUM

SegmentationALL

RunwayShare:

0.6%In

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

BIGSegmentation

EDGY&TRENDY

RunwayShare:

0.3%In

FW26vs.

lastyear

Magnitude

MASSIVE

SegmentationALL

RunwayShare:4%+2%Polyester

Fleece-2%SeeThroughScope:

Europe,

men.1.Surrealistic

Playground

KeyFabricsTheSurrealisticPlaygroundthemeredefineseverydaysilhouettesthrougharchitecturalvolumesandtactiledepth.Jerseycontinuestoanchorthethemewithwithaforecastedgrowthof+2%amongconsumersin

FW26,

offeringthefluidityneededforexperimental,comfort-drivendesigns.Polyester

Fleecealsoshowssteadygrowth

at+2%,evolvingfromitssporty

roots

into

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Magnitude

BIG

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Share:

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men.1.Surrealistic

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isbalancedbyContrasting

Color

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2%

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its

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astandalone"sculpturalanchor"fortheFW26season.

InthisSurrealisticPlayground,thesilhouetteactsas

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sleevelessframe

that

disrupts

traditional

masculine

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VestsScope:

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into

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masculine