染发基础课程1.ppt

1、World of Colour,Emotional, sensual, inspirational, these are a few of the ways we define our experience of and relationship with the world of colour. Colour affects our moods, our language and our image of ourselves. It is this which interests the hairdresser, who, empowered with the superb IGORA ra

2、nge can change the world in which their clients live.,Fit For Colour适合染发 Day 1第一天,To be fit for colour requires, not only technical ability and creative flair, but a working knowledge of hair, products and tools of the trade combined with effective client interaction and retailing skills. 要适合染发，不仅需要

3、技术能力和创造才能，还需要对头发，产品和销售工具的工作经验结合有效的顾客交流和零售技巧。,Session Outline会议纲要 Fit for Colour适合染发,1 Theory Principles of Colour The Colour Wheel Natural Hair 2 General Products Product Groups Oxidative a world without colour could be described as boring, empty, lacking in energy and life! As such, colour is an im

4、portant element within the world of fashion, a statement of individuality and character. 颜色以许多不同的方式影响着我们；没有颜色的世界是单调，空洞及没有生命力和活力的。正因为如此，颜色是时尚界的一个重要因素，是个性和性格的宣言。,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.1,What is colour? Colour is derived from light Pure light comes from the sun Light is radiation Electromagnetic v

5、ibrations Pure light is split by a prism Forms the colour spectrum 什么是颜色？ 颜色从阳光中来 从太阳中来的纯净日光 日光是辐射性的 电磁振动 纯净日光被棱镜分离 组成了颜色光谱,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.2,Colour & Colouring Agents Additive Colour Colour generated from a source Subtractive Colour Objects reflect light Light is influenced by object pro

6、perties Pigment in hair is a colouring agent 颜色和色彩催化剂 添加色 颜色产生与来源 减去色 物体反射光线 光线受物体的特性影响 头发中的色素就是色彩催化剂,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.3,Subtractive Primary Colours Red Magenta Red and blue are reflected, green absorbed Yellow Red and green are reflected, blue absorbed Blue Cyan Green and blue are reflect

7、ed, red absorbed 减去基础色 红色 洋红色 红色和兰色被反射，绿色被吸收 黄色 红色和绿色被反射，兰色被吸收 兰色 青色 绿色和兰色被反射，红色被吸收,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.4,Absorption & Reflection What happens to absorbed colour? Selective absorption Transformed into energy What happens to reflected colour? Light waves are detected by the eye Surface structu

8、re determines visual effect 吸收和反射 颜色被吸收后发生了什么？ 有选择的吸收 转化为能量 颜色被反射后发生了什么？ 光波被眼睛发现 表面结构决定视觉效果,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.5,Atomic Structure Atomic structure influences absorption Synchronised molecules reflect light Non-synchronised molecules absorb light Speed & number of electrons influence light 原子

9、结构 原子结构影响吸收 同步的分子反射光线 不同步的分子吸收光线 电子的速度和数量影响光线,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.6,How do we see colour? Two types of sensor in the eye Rods detect low light intensity Cones detect sharp images / colour Three types of cone sensor Each detects either red, green or blue Light is therefore subjective 我们怎样看见颜色？

10、 眼睛里的两种传感器 rods侦测低强度光 圆锥细胞侦测清晰的形象/颜色 三种圆锥细胞传感器 分别侦测红色绿色或兰色 光线因此具有主观性,The Colour Wheel 色轮1.7,What is the colour wheel? Displays primary and secondary colours Colours are subtractive Opposing colours cancel each other out Browns are represented in the centre 什么是色轮？ 展示原色和合成色 颜色是减去性的 对立色能够互相抵消 棕色处于中央,Th

11、e Colour Wheel色轮1.8,Complementary Colours Yellow - Violet Orange - Blue Red - Green 互补色 黄色 紫罗兰色 橘红色 兰色 红色 绿色,The Colour Wheel色轮1.9,Warm & Cool Tones Chromatic Yellow (Gold) Warm Orange (Copper) Warm Red Warm / Cool Violet Cool Blue Cool Green (Matt) Cool 冷暖色调 鲜艳色 黄色（金色） 暖色调 橘红色（铜色） 暖色调 红色 暖色调/冷色调 紫罗

12、兰色 冷色调 兰色 冷色调 绿色 (无光泽的) 冷色调,Natural Hair天然发质 1.10,Colour in Hair Comes from pigment granules Type & quantity determines tone & depth Pigment size & shape varies Cuticle condition influences perception 头发中的颜色 来源于色素颗粒 种类和发质决定发色深浅度 色素大小和形状不同 头发表层情况影响perception,Natural Hair天然发质 1.11,Pigment Type Melanoc

13、yte cells create pigment granules Found within the root bulb Triggered by a chemical catalyst Two types of pigment are formed Pheomelanin Eumelanin Both combine to create natural shades Natural tones are achromatic 色素种类 黑素细胞产生色素颗粒 发现于发根中 由化学催化剂促成 形成的两种色素 外激素 真黑素 两者结合生成天然色调 天然发色为鲜艳色,Natural Hair天然发质

14、1.12,Depth & Tone Colour depth is determined by quantity Greater pigment concentration = darker shade Eumelanin has more influence on depth Depth is represented by a scale (1 to 10) Colour tone is determined by type Combinations of eumelanin & pheomelanin Tone is more evident as hair lightens Pheome

15、lanin has more influence on tone 颜色深浅度和发色 颜色深浅度取决与发质 越大量的色素汇集=越深的色调 真黑素对颜色深浅度的影响更大 颜色深浅度以一个比例的形式体现（1比10） 发色取决于头发类型 是外激素和真黑素的结合 发色越浅色调越明显 外激素对发色影响更大,Natural Hair天然发质 1.13,Primary Undertones As hair is lightened, tones become evident Primary undertone will influence final shade Corrective colouring ma

16、y be required 基础发色 发色越浅，色调越明显 基础发色影响最终发色 有可能需要颜色修正,Natural Hair天然发质 1.14,Behaviour of Pigments Eumelanin Is larger than pheomelanin Is broken down more easily Is found closer to the edge of the cortex Can be grey / brown Pheomelanin Is much smaller than eumelanin Size determines colour Is more deepl

17、y embedded into the cortex Can be red / orange / yellow 色素作用 真黑素 比外激素大 容易分解 在头皮表层更容易发现 可能是灰色/棕色 外激素 比真黑素小多了 大小决定发色 更容易被头皮深层次吸收 可以是红色/橘红色/黄色,2 General Products普通产品,Colouring hair is a science as well as an art form. It is a unique process when compared to dying fabrics or similar materials, as the ro

18、ot bulb of the hair shaft is alive! A good working knowledge of the type of products available for colouring hair will provide the foundation necessary in order to become an expert. 染发不仅是一门科学更是一门艺术。有别于织物染色，它是一门独特的工艺流程，因为毛囊中的发束是活的。 对于染发产品种类的充分了解会为成为这一行业的专家提供必要的基础。,General Products普通产品2.1,Pigments in

19、Colouring Products Direct Pigments Demi / Semi Pre-developed direct dyestuff Pigments are deposited in the cuticle Some pigments lodge in the cortex Pigments gradually wash out Oxidative Pigment Permanent Undeveloped para-dyes Need H2O2 and ammonia additives Pigments develop within the cortex 染发产品中的

20、色素 Direct色素 半持久性/非持久性 预先处理过的direct染料 色素附着与头发表层 一些色素渗入头皮 色素会逐渐被洗去 氧化色素 持久性 未处理过的para-dyes 需要H2O2及氨水 色素在头皮中生长,General Products普通产品2.2,Product Groups Plant-based colour Some colour penetrates into cortex Some colour is deposited in the cuticle layer Semi-Permanent Colour is deposited in the cuticle lay

21、er 产品组 植物提取液染发 一些颜色渗入头皮 一些颜色附着于头发表层 非持久染发 颜色附着于头发表层,General Products普通产品2.2,Product Groups Demi-Permanent Some colour penetrates into cortex Some colour is deposited in the cuticle layer Permanent Colour penetrates fully into the cortex 半持久染发 一些颜色渗入头皮 一些颜色附着于头发表层 持久性染发 颜色完全渗入头皮,General Products普通产品2

22、.3,Plant based colour Has direct pigments Mainly deposits pigment in the cuticle Gradually fades Is ammonia-free Is tone-on-tone Creates a high gloss finish 植物提取液染发 有direct色素 色素主要附着于头发表层 颜色逐渐褪去 没有氨水 能在染过的头发上再上色 能够营造十分光亮的质感,General Products普通产品2.4,Semi-Permanent Colours Have direct pigments Mainly de

23、posit colour in the cuticle Do not use H2O2 solution Gradually fade Are ammonia-free Blend up to 20% white hair Have a cosmetic benefit 非持久性染发 有direct色素 色素主要附着于头发表层 不使用H2O2配方 逐渐褪色 不使用氨水 能遮盖20%的白头发 有美容功效,General Products普通产品2.5,Demi-Permanent Colours Combine direct & oxidative pigments Deposit colour

24、 in the cuticle & cortex Use a weak H2O2 solution Gradually fade out Are ammonia-free Have a gentle colouring action Blend up to 50% white hair 半持久性染发 将Direct和氧化色素结合 色素不仅附着与头发表层还渗入头皮 使用较弱的H2O2配方 逐渐褪色 不使用氨水 染发反应较柔和 能遮盖50%的白发,General Products普通产品2.6,Permanent Colours Bleaches Lighten hair colour Reduc

25、e natural pigments Dissolve artificial pigments Require H2O2 Oxidative Tints Deposit permanent colour within the cortex Red, blue & yellow pigments develop into final colour Can lighten or darken shade Require H2O2 Cover up to 100% white hair 持久染发 漂染 使发色变浅 减少天然色素 溶解人工色素 需要H2O2 氧化染发剂 色素持久渗入头皮 红色，兰色及黄

26、色色素搀入最终发色 能使色调变浅或变深 需要H2O2 100%遮盖白发,General Products普通产品2.7,Colouring Ingredients Oxidative Colour The base cream Oil or water based emulsion Colour precursors Undeveloped colour molecules Dyestuffs Pre-developed colour molecules Alkalising agents Oxidative catalyst 染发成分 氧化染发 基础乳液 油性或水性乳剂 Colour pre

27、cursors 预先处理过的色素分子 染料 未成熟的色素分子 碱化试剂 氧化催化剂,General Products普通产品2.8,Colouring Ingredients Caring agents Promote healthy hair Antioxidants Prevent pre-oxidation of colour precursors Complexing agents Combine with metallic impurities Perfume Disguises the smell of ammonia 染发成份 护理试剂 促进生成健康头发 抗氧化剂 预防colou

28、r precursors的过早氧化 综合试剂 与金属杂质混合 香料 掩盖氨水的气味,3 IGORA System依采系统,IGORA incorporates a wide range of diverse colours and application systems, with covering natural tones through to vibrant fashion and extreme colours. Choose from permanent or semi-permanent colours with complete confidence. Whether you w

29、ant to try a colour for a few days, have a gentle coloration, or a permanent colour with superior intensity and brilliance. The IGORA System delivers. 依采将一系列品种丰富的染发及应用系统结合起来，顶尖时尚和极端的颜色。 放心的从永久性和半永久性的染发产品中作出选择。无论你是想尝试一种新颜色，过几天就洗掉，还是尝试一种较柔和的染发或是使用鲜明强烈的永久性染发产品，依采系统都能满足你。,IGORA System依采系统3.1,Features &

30、Benefits Over 100 different shades Creative products Easy to use professional products Permanent, Demi / Semi colours Easy to understand identification Numbering system synergy Up to full grey coverage with natural tones Extensive testing for health & safety Exciting fashion colours 特色和益处 多过100种的不同色

31、调 创造性的产品 方便使用的专业产品 永久性，半永久性/非永久性染发 便于区分 配合编号系统 能够使用天然色调完全遮盖白发 大量健康和安全的测试 激动人心的时尚色彩,IGORA System依采系统3.2,Numbering System Colour Level / Depth 12 = Special Blonde 10 = Ultra Blonde 91/2 = Pastel Blonde 9 = Extra Light Blonde 8 = Light Blonde 7 = Medium Blonde 6 = Dark Blonde 5 = Light Brown 4 = Medium

32、 Brown 3 = Dark Brown 1 = Black 编号系统 颜色级别/深浅度 12=特殊金 10=柔和金 91/2 =蜡金色 9=超亮金 8=亮金 7=中度金 6=暗金 5=亮棕色 4=中度棕 3=暗棕色 1=黑色,IGORA System依采系统3.3,Numbering System Tone -0 = Natural -00 = Natural Extra -1 = Cendre -2 = Blue/Green (smokey) -3 = Green (matt) -4 = Orange/Violet (beige) -5 = Yellow (gold) -6 = Red/

33、Brown (warm mocha) -7 = Orange (copper) -8 = Red -9 = Purple (violet) 编号系统 色调 -0=天然色 -00=超天然 -1=Cendre -2=兰色/绿色（烟兰色/烟绿色） -3=绿色（暗绿色） -4=橘红色/紫罗兰色（米色） -5=黄色（金色） -6=红色/棕色（暖咖啡色） -7=橘红色（紫铜色） -8=红色 -9=紫色（紫罗兰色）,IGORA System依采系统3.4,Numbering System Examples Level | Primary Tone | Secondary Tone 8-4 Light blonde beige 7-87 Medium blo