天然皮革认知培训-浙江明新

1、Topic 1 Leather study & Manufactory,主题1 真皮的学习和 生产工艺,History of leather 皮革的历史,Heritage 皮革的传统 Natural raw materialvegetable 天然原材料植物鞣制 The industry revolution（Re leather）皮革的工业革命 - thermometer and Hydrometer 温度计和液体比重计的应用 - invention of the splitting machine 1809 1809年片皮机的发明 - Mechanical de-hairing and f

2、leshing machine 1840 1840年机械脱毛机和去肉机的应用 Chrome tanning1858-the “modern” era of leather manufacturing 1858铬鞣技术的运用使皮革生产进入到“现代化”时代 Vats to Drums 转鼓的使用 ApplicationsApparel, Protection, furniture, industrial, Travel, Sports, Transportation, Automobile 应用 衣物，保护，家具，工业，旅行，运动，交通，汽车,What is a Hide 什么是皮？,Natura

3、l product 自然产品 - wood，cotton， silk， wool 木材，棉花，丝绸，羊毛 - aesthetic appeal 美学上的吸引力 （feel， look and smell 触觉，视觉和气味） Each is unique 每一张皮都是唯一的 Subjective raw material 真皮是一种具有主观性的原材料,China cattle types 中国牛的种类,Steer/ Cow黄牛 Scalper is the main source of leather industry in China, supplying 12,000,000 hides p

4、er year. 黄牛皮是制革工业最主要的原料皮，我国年产黄牛皮约1200万张 Buffalo 水牛 Buffalo also a main source of leather industry ,mainly for sole ,upholstery and industry due to thickness and size . 水牛皮也是制革工业的主要原料，由于其张幅及厚度均较大，适用于工业用革，沙发革及鞋底革。 Yak 牦牛 Due to crack and looseness yak is not the choice for leather industry .牦牛皮在制革过程中易

5、出现松面及裂面，故不宜作为原料。,North American cattle types 北美牛的种类,Only the best steers and heifers from north American and south Germany are used to make premium leather . 只有北美和德国南部最好的公牛和母牛才能制作出上等的皮革 Animals typically live 2-3years maximum . 用于真皮采集的动物一般最多饲养2-3年 North American hides are preferred because of fiber

6、structure ,age of animals ,cost and process by which they are raised (feed lots -not free range ). 之所以选择北美的皮革是因为它们的纤维结构，动物的年龄，价格和饲养过程和其它地方不同（多数为人工饲养-而非放养）,Argentina 阿根廷,Typical Brazilian Cattle 巴西牛,Note :hump in shoulder areas 注：肩部的驼峰,The Anatomy of a Hide 皮革的剖面,Mammals share similar anatomy ,but di

7、fferent grains 哺乳动物有相似的结构但是皮的纹理不同,肉面层,肉面层,粒面层,毛囊,毛发,皮脂腺,表面,竖立肌,汗腺,动脉,肉粒面 交汇区,Typical Hide 典型的皮,1-Butt thickest and strongest part of the animal 臀部动物最厚最强壮的部位，通常这里的皮质 量最好 2-Neck thick and strong, but provides a poorer cutting ,due to creases and growth marks 颈部厚且强壮但是利用率不高因为有褶皱和成 长的自然印记 3-Shoulder tend

8、s to be thinner than the butt area 肩部比起背部和颈部，肩膀皮质偏薄 4-Backbone tends to be thinner than the butt area 脊柱比背部薄 5-Belly thin and has a less dense structure 腹部-偏薄并且结构松弛 6-Flanks thinnest and weakest part of the skin 侧腹-皮肤最薄的部分 7-Shanks 腿部 8-Tail 尾部,1,1,1,1,7,7,7,7,6,2,8,4,5,6,6,6,5,3,3,Neck 颈部,Butt 臀部,A

9、uto Leather manufacturing process 汽车革制造过程,Stucco 补伤,Sorting 组批,Toggling 绷板,Measuring 量革,Shaving 削匀,Staking 震荡,Buffing 磨革,Wet Blue Inspection 兰皮检验,Wet back 回水,Samming 挤水,Set Out 伸展挤水,Retain Dye染色,Wet-end 水场,Spliting 片皮,Topcoat 顶浆,Shipping 18.发货,Embossing 压花,Measuring/ Packing 量皮/打包,Basecoat 底浆,Color

10、coat 着色层,Selecting/ inspection 成品检测,Compound Preparation 配料,Color Matching 调色,Roller Coat 辊封里,Staking/ Dedusting 震荡/除尘,Milling 11.摔软,Leather manufacturing process 皮革制造过程,Finishing 涂饰,Wet Blue Inspection蓝皮检验,按分选标准对蓝皮进行挑选并分类堆放Selecting the wet blue according to sorting criteria and stacking separately

11、,Wet Blue Sort Criteria 蓝湿皮分级标准,70Clean Cutting Area 70可切割区域 Flat，Healed Defects 平整的，补好伤的 Brands，Raised or Open Defects to be Cut Around 切割时避开烙印，开口疤和闭合疤 Very Light Grain Damage 非常细小的损伤,50Clean Cutting Area 50可切割区域 AII Defects to be Cut Around 所有瑕疵都要避开 LightMedium Grain Damage 轻度/中度损伤,50Clean Cutting

12、 Area 小于50可切割区域 Open Cuts，Heals，Pits and Brands 凹洞，切痕，伤疤 Heavy Grain Damage 严重损,CD,AB,E,Wet back 回软,Drums used for wet back 回软时所用的转鼓,Typical production drums hold 150-240hides 一般生产用转鼓可以容纳150-240张皮,Samming 挤水,Removes 55%of excess moisture (water) 去掉55%的多余水分,Splitting 片皮,Hides are split to a more prec

13、ise thickness at this point Top half (Full Grain or Top Grain) used in Auto Bottom half (split) used in garments and low end furniture,将皮革按照精确的厚度分层 上半层(全粒面或头层皮)用于汽车革 下半层(二层皮)用T-N衣和制作低端家具,Shaving 削匀,Purpose目的 Make the hide precise and to assure uniformity in thickness。确保皮革的标准厚度 Open the fibers, so th

14、ey will accept the Re-tan chemicals,去除纤维，为复鞣作准备 Description 描述 Equipment设备 The primary part of the shaving machine is the blade cylinder and it is located on the top half 主要部件为装在顶部的带刀片的辊子 The blade cylinder must be wider than the hide be kept very sharp and rotates quickly 带刀片的棍子必须比皮革宽，保持锋利而且快速转动 Th

15、e blade is kept sharp by 通过自动磨刀器刀片保持锋利 the roller cylinder maintain pressure , thickness and speed辊子保持压力，厚度和速度 Process过程 The hide is placed fiat withthe grain facing down将皮革平放，皮面朝下 It is then fed into the shaver on a roller皮在辊子上进入片皮机 The miler pushes the hide against the blade cylinder 将皮革列准刀片 The b

16、lade cylinder cuts away part of the hide( flesh side) with a sharp scraping action 锋平的刀片会把肉面刮去 The thickness is controlled by the distance between the blade cylinder and the roller cylinder 皮革的厚度由刀片的辊子和转动辊子问的距离决定 Data数据 Typical thickness before 削匀之前厚度： 1.3-1.5mm 1.5-1.7mm(一般情况下) Typical thickness af

17、ter削匀之后厚度： Accuracy精确度： +/-0.1mm Weight before之前重量： 15.5-22 kg Weight after之后重量； 9-12kg,Shaving 削匀,Hides are shaved to specific thickness at this stage (Industry Coverage: 1.0mm to1.4 mm) 在这一步骤，将皮革削到指定的厚 度(工业标准：1.0mm to 1.4mm),Shaving affects thickness， which helps determine 削匀后的皮革厚度将影响： Tear Streng

18、th 撕裂强度 Elongation 延伸力 松面 透心,Re-Tanning 复鞣,The ReTanning process affects these aspects of the leather 效果： Tensile strength抗张强度 Tear Strength撕裂强度 Elongation延伸性 Fogging防雾化 VOC挥发性 Odor气味 Aging Resistance抗老化 Flexibility回弹性 Softness柔软度 Dye penetration 染料迁出 Dye migration色迁移 Aesthetics美观 Perspiration耐汗性 Lo

19、oseness 松面,Re-Tanning 复鞣,Defined process controls are continually monitored to ensure product aesthetics 具体过程不断被监控以确保产品的美观,Hides are Re-Tanning in larger drums . 皮革在大的转鼓中进行复鞣,Re-Tanning 复鞣,Purpose 目的 Distribute re-tan ingredients through the leather for final tanning，leather stabilization 使用染料来给皮上色，

20、近似最终效果的颜色 Add basic russet color to the hide using pigments and dyes利用色素和染料为皮上色 Add fat liquors (oils) that help make the fibers slide and bend making the hide soft and strong；determines grain characteristics加入油脂以使纤维滑动且弯曲，这可以令皮革柔软坚固，决定皮革特性 Description描述 Equipment设备 Large tumbling drums similar to a

21、front loading washing machine大的转鼓类似于一个洗衣机 Process程序 The hides are manually loaded into the drums将皮装入转鼓 Detailed parameters are precisely controlled精确地控制详细的参数： The addition of pre-measured chemicals所加化学品的量 Rotation direction and speed of the drum转鼓的旋转方向和速度 Temperature of the water，mixture水，混合剂的温度 Ove

22、rall duration of-each phase每个步骤所需耍的时间 At the completion of the final rinse cycle，the solution is drained and the hides are removed and placed on a horse 在最后 个步骤完成之后，需进行排水及清洗，然后把皮堆放在马架上 Data数据 Data数据 Cycle time 工艺时间： 12-15hours Weight before之前重量： 5-8kg Weight after之后重量： 6-10kg,Set Out复鞣:挤水,Excess wat

23、er is again Removed at this process to speed up the drying process 在这一步骤，多余的水分被 挤出，以便加快干燥 使皮面充分伸展，以增加得革率,Set Out挤水,Purpose 目的 Remove some water out of the hide to make if easier to dry挤出部分水分使皮比较容易烘干 Slightly stretch the hide略微拉伸皮革 Remove wrinkles去除皱纹 Compress fibersimproves fiber structure压缩纤维，改善纤维结

24、构 Description描述 Equipment设备 Similar to an oldfashioned clothes wringer和老式样的干衣机相似 The primary part of the setout machine is-the blade cylinder and is located on the top half主要部件为带刀片的辊子 The blade cylinder must be wider than the hide and rotate very quickly带刀片的棍子必须比皮革宽而且快速转动 Contrary to the shaving mac

25、hine ，these blades are dull，with rounded edges另一面有带钝刀片的滚轮 The roller cylinder maintains pressure，thickness and speed滚轮有压力、厚度和速度 Process程序 The hide is placed fiat with the grain facing down将皮平放 It is then fed into the setting machine on a roller从滚轮上送入机器 The roller pushes the hide against the blade cy

26、linder滚轮将皮革向下挤压到带刀片的辊子 The blade cylinder squeezes out some water and the action of the blades stretches the hide坡在两个滚轮间被挤压掉的水 The hide then proceeds between felt rollers and a rubber roll然后皮革在滚轮间移动 The felt rollers pull the hides quicker than the rubber roller causing desired stretching毛毡滚轮快速拉伸皮革 D

27、ata数据 Data数据 Weight before处理前重量: 6-10kg Weight after处理后重量： 5-8kg %Water removed 挤水后水分含量： 55%左右,Toggle绷板,绷板干燥 Toggle Drying 最通用的干燥方法 Most popular drying method 得革率最大化 Maximize hide yield 使皮平整并达到指定湿度要求,Staking 振荡,Starts to soften and level off the leather by relaxing the dried fibers 通过拍松干燥的纤维使皮革变得柔软.

28、而且平整,Staking affects效果 Softness 柔软 Aesthetics 美观,Staking 振荡,Purpose 目的 Make the hide softer使皮革更柔软、平整 Stretches the hide，regains size拉伸皮革，恢复尺寸 Description 描述 Equipment设备 Similar to a mechanical beef tenderizing operation类似于机械式牛肉嫩化操作 he primary pads of the staking machine are the tool plates and the e

29、lastic conveyors 主要部件就是震荡板和有弹桃的传送带 There are two platesone on the top and one on the bottom总共仃两个金属板，一个在上面，一个在下面 l he plate on the top has thousands of smooth holes上面的金属板有很多光滑的小孔 The plate on the bottom has thousands of smooth pins下面金属板上则有许多相列应的光滑柱形小栓 I he bottom plate moves up and down very quickly

30、so the small pins go in and out of the holes- 通过卜面金属板不断地快速向上和向下运动，使这些柱形栓不挺地穿入和穿出这小孔 Process程序 The hide is placed fiat on the elastic conveyors将皮平放在有弹性的传送带上 The conveyors take the hide between the top and bottom plates传送带载着皮从金属板上下之间穿过 While the hide goes through the plates，the pins force the hide in

31、and out of the hole 当皮通过时，柱形小栓使皮也随着穿入利穿出小孔 This action is repeated quickly and stretches the fibers many times，softening the hide 这个操作使皮中的纤维被拉伸很多次，从而变得更柔软一些,Stucco 补伤,按照要求对皮革的表面伤残进行填补 Filling the pigment on leather surface defects,Buffing 磨革,按照指定要求对皮革的厚度进行修整Mending the leather thickness according to

32、 appointed requests,Sorting 组批,Exact thickness checks are performed after each process 每一步骤后都进行厚度测量,Here the hides are further inspected to separate the “best of the best ” 再次挑选皮革，以找出“精品”,Finishing：Milling涂饰：摔软,Milling brings out of the softness of the leather in milling drum with baffles 在有棱的大转鼓中，干

33、滚令皮革软化,Staking affects效果 Softness 柔软 Aesthetics 美观,Finishing：Milling涂饰：摔软,Description 描述 Equipment设备 Large tumbling drums similar to common clothes dryer类似洗衣店里干衣机的大型转鼓 Each drum contains shelves to aid in the tumbling action of the hides 每个转鼓里面有一些棱，在转鼓转动时，这些棱会使皮在里面翻滚 The drums are fired with an exha

34、ust to draw off dustcreated by the Milling operation 转鼓里的排尘装置则把摔软时产生的灰尘排出 Process程序 The hides are loaded into the drum把皮装进转鼓中 The drum is tumbled for a varied amount of time （depending on the type of leather) 转鼓旋转到一定的时间（按照皮的种类） As the hides tumble，the fibers bend back and forthThis mechanical action

35、 softens the hides 当皮在翻转时，其中的纤维被折弯，这个操作有助于软化纤维 Data数据 Cycle time瓶环时间： 6小时 Hides per drum每次处理皮的能力：100-150Hide,Finishing: De-Dusting涂饰：除尘,It is critical to remove loose fibers and dirt at this stage ,prior to finishing 在涂饰操作之前，清洁皮革表面是很关键的。,Finishing: De-Dusting涂饰：除尘,Purpose目的 Previous operations (Stac

36、king and Milling) can cause static electricity，loose fibers and dust 前而的操作(震荡和于滚)会产生静电，纤维和灰尘 Prevent blemishes in the finish by cleaning the surface of the hide (removing dust，fibers) prior to the finishing operations为防止在涂饰过程巾产生污点，需清洁皮革表面(去处灰尘，纤维) Description 描述 Equipment 设备 Similar to a vacuum clea

37、ner类似于一个真空吸尘器 The primary part of the De-Dusting machine is the brush and is located on the top half 除尘机的主要部件为在机器顶部的除尘刷 Process程序 The hide is placed fiat with the grain facing up将皮面朝上平放 It is then fed into the brusher on a conveyor通过传送带将皮送入除尘机 The conveyor rollers hold the hide fightwhile the hide g

38、oes between the roller brushes and vacuum nozzles 当皮进入滚刷和真空吸口时，传送带的滚轴使皮保持紧张状态 The brushes move the fibers and dust away from the hide滚刷移去纤维和尘土等附在皮革表面的污物 The vacuum nozzles capture the fibers and dust真空吸口带走纤维和尘土,Finishing- Spraying涂饰：喷涂,First layer of color for the finished product 成品皮革的第一层颜色,Finishi

39、ng- Base Coat涂饰：底涂,Finishing- Base Coat Reverse Roll Coater 涂饰-辊底涂,purpose目的 May be used in conjunction with the Spray Finish Machine可与喷涂机一起使用 Typically used to apply the Base Coat Finish The Base Coat is the foundation for important properties such as： 主要用于上底涂底涂是皮革一些重要特性的基础。例如：Flexibility弹性 Adhesio

40、n between the paint and the hide facts like a primerThis promotes wear resistanceAlso can cover the natural defects and make the leather looks nicer 皮坯和涂料之间的紧密性，增加表面自然伤残的遮盖使皮革看起来更高档美观； UV stability 抗紫外线 The Base Coat application enhances the levelness of subsequent coats底涂为后续上涂料奠定了基础 The Base Coat i

41、s pigmented to provide color coverage and to support the final color.为皮上色,确保成品后整张皮的颜色均匀性 Description描述 Equipment设备 The primary component is the specially engraved applicator cylinder.主要的部件是特制的辊子 The applicator cylinder a reverse direction from the leather feed and at a higher rate to ensure uniform

42、application. 辊子从皮革传送过来的方向高速以相反方向运行，以确保整张涂饰量的均匀性 Other components are the conveyor and the finish applicator，doctor blade.其他部什包括传送带和涂饰 刮粉刀 Process程序 The appropriate coating (pigment，clear coat) is added to the finish applicator.将适量的涂料加在涂饰机中 The finish applicator feeds a continuous and uniform coat on

43、to the applicator cylinder.辊涂机将持续稳定的涂料流入辊涂辊 The hide is placed fiat on the conveyor with the grain facing up。 将皮革皮面向上平放在传送带上 As the hide moves under the cylinder the coating is transferred onto the hide in a uniform application 当皮移动到辊予下而，染料均匀地涂抹到皮革上 The film coat is controlled by the speed of the ap

44、plicator cylinder ( variable ) and the type，depth of the Engraving (fixed) of the cylinder。辊涂量的大小取决于辊子的速度(可变)和辊子上纹路的深浅。,Finishing- Reverse Roll Coater涂饰-反方向的滚轧涂饰机,Reverse Roll Coater 反方向的滚轧涂饰机,Reverse roll coat process enhances the adhesion of the paint leather ,therefore very little is needed for a

45、 uniform and luxurious finish 相反方向的滚轧涂饰增加了皮革颜色的牢固 性，因此一般不再需要统一和考究的涂饰,Finishing：Grain embossment 涂饰：压花,Finishing涂饰：Embossing 压花,Purpose 目的 Add a patterned texture into the surface of the hide把某种纹理图案压到皮革表面 Description 描述 Equipment 设备 The primary part of the Roller Embosser machine is the textured meta

46、l cylinder located on the top half 压花机的主要部件是在顶部前半部装的一个金属花辊 There is a different cylinder for each designtexture，每一种纹理都有不同的花辊 The textured cylinder is heated to aide in the design transfer辊子通过加热来压花 Process程序 The hide is placed flat on a conveyor with the grain facing up把皮在传送带上平放 The conveyor takes th

47、e hide under the master cylinder传送带把皮送到花辊下面 The texture of the cylinder is pressed into the hide under heat and pressure 纹理通过压力和高温压制到皮革表面 Some leathers are embossed after the base coat and some are embossed after top coat 有些皮在底涂后进行压花，有些则是在喷涂后进行压花,Finishing-Color Coat涂饰-颜色层,Leather receives a compute

48、r blended color coat application by automated spray guns用自动喷枪向皮革喷上电脑调配好的颜色层 The spray line is enclosed，keeping dirt and fibers from drying in the finish 喷淋线是封闭的，以隔绝灰尘和纤维,Finishing涂饰: Top Coat 水光,All leather receives a final top coat ,applied by automated spray guns . 所有的皮，都将用自动喷涂机进行最终的顶喷。,Spray guns

49、 applying the top coat 喷枪在进行顶喷,Finishing 涂饰,Base Coat，Color Coat and Top Coat affect： 底涂，颜色层和项涂的效果： Color and Gloss control颜色和光泽 Abrasion Resistance抗磨损性 Surface Feel表面的触感 Stain Resistance抗污染性 Low Temp Flexibility低温伸展性 UV Resistance抗紫外线能力 COF抗摩擦力 Crocking Resistance抗断裂 Aging properties抗老化 Aesthetic美观

50、,Painted hides continue down the conveyor system under the heat lamps for drying 涂饰好的皮革从传送带上被送到射灯（烘箱内）下进行干燥。,Finishing 涂饰,Purpose 目的 May be used in conjunction with the Roll Coater Finish Machine可配合涂饰机进行 Used to apply any of the following coatings总共有以下几种涂饰： Base Coat FinishApply some color on the hi

51、de and create a layer that will promote adhesion to the other finishes 底涂-给皮上些颜色，同时有助于其他涂料与皮坯紧密结台。 Color Coat- Apply the final color onto the hide. Enhance properties such as flexibility and abrasion 喷颜色层一把最终的颜色喷到皮上增加弹性和耐磨性。 Top Coat - Protect the color from UV rays，abrasion Enhance the hides natura

52、l tactile feel Control final color and gloss 顶喷保护皮革免受紫外线曲辐射，不易磨损。赋予皮革一些可以感觉到的美学特征，调节最后的颜色和光泽。 Description 描述 Equipment设备 There are three main pans to the Spray Finish Machine喷涂机有三个主要部件 -The conveyor 传送带 -The spray guns 喷枪 -The guns are attached to a rotary fixture that continuously rotates about a 1

53、2diamefer ensuring uniformity of spray pattern overlap. 喷轮是连接任一个固定曲旋转物上，这个旋转物的旋转范围可以达到1 2英寸，这样保证了喷滁样式的均匀。 The drying oven干燥箱 independently controlled gas heaters capable of up to 113.000 BTUs each 每个加热装置可将热气控制达到113.000BTUs. Mingxin only uses water based finish technology 明新只使用液休涂饰工艺。 Process过程 The h

54、ide is placed flat 0n the conveyor with the grain facing up将皮粒而向上平放在传送带上。 As the hide moves into the spray booth，the rotating spray guns apply a uniform finish to the hide 当皮进入喷漆橱，旋转的喷枪在皮而上进行喷涂。 The hide continues along the conveyorout of the spray booth and through the drying oven传送带把皮送入干燥通道。 The h

55、ides are pulled from the conveyor and hung on a house将皮从传送带上拿下，并放于马架上晾晒,Finishing：Staking 涂饰:振荡,Leathers are put through a second staking process ,to further soften the leather 为了使皮革更加柔软，对皮革进行二次振荡,Finishing涂饰：milling 摔软,Prior to the cutting process, leathers are brought to the ultimate softness leve

56、l by a final mill.在切割的工序前，通过摔软使皮革柔软,Only high-quality receives the final milling process只有高质量的皮需要最终的摔软,Release testing皮革测试,All leather hides must be tested before released for cutting 在切割之前要对所有的皮革进行测试,Pre-packing Inspection /Selecting出货前检查/分级,Each Hide is inspected for defects according to given sta

57、ndard before being packed and shipment. The inspectors are looking for both Natural and Process defects The unqualified hides should be selected out to ensure they are not pass to the customer 在按规定标准及客户要求出货前对每一张皮进行缺陷检查 检查包括自然缺陷和制作过程中产生的缺陷 对不符合标准的进行筛选以确保其不发到客户手中,Auto Hide evaluation prime using area汽

58、车皮革评估主要的可使用部位,Prime Using Area主要的可使用部位,Perforation冲孔,Some vehicles have patterns that are perforated to allow for interior design Differentiation 考虑到汽车内饰设计的多样性，一些车辆内饰设计具有打孔的样式,Feed the hides through the machine，as the perforation needles move up and down 将需打孔的皮革被放进机器，打孔的小针上下移动,Perforation冲孔,Purpose目

59、的 Pierce the hide with small holes in a desired pattern以设计好的样式，列皮革予以冲孔 Perforated leather allows heat or air to pass through it. It also decreases the weight，density 冲孔后的皮革可以穿透热量和空气并且冲孔可以减少皮革重量密度 Perforations are a part of styling，design冲孔是内饰样式设计的一部分 The perforation design is very versatile冲孔的设计是多样的 Description 描述 Equipment设备 The primary part of the Perforating machine is the metal plate主要的设备部件是金属板 In the metal plate are hundreds of small metal punch pins