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本科毕业论文题 目: 牛仔裤文化浅析 学 院: 外国语学院 专业班级: 英 语 0601班 学 号: 2006344010116 学生姓名: 指导教师姓名: 指导教师职称: 副 教 授 二O一O 年 五 月 二十 日Elementary Analysis of Jeans cultureA Graduation Thesis Submitted byWang XiaoxuIn Partial Fulfillment of the RequirementsForThe Degree of Bachelor of ArtsIn the Subject of English Language and LiteratureSupervisor: Lu WengeMay 20, 2010Candidates: _Supervisor: _Table of ContentsAcknowledgementsi摘 要iiAbstractii1 Introduction11.1 Necessity11.2 Hypothesis and its Significance12 Jeans Culture History and Connotations32.1 The Development History of Jeans32.1.1 The Initial Stage32.1.2 The Mature Period32.2 Jeans Culture Connotations42.2.1 Elimination of Hierarchy, Advocacy of Nationalism and Democracy42.2.2 Respect for Individuality52.2.3 Promotion in Gender Equality62.2.4 The Symbol of Modernization and the Carrier of Technological Progress73 Reasons of the Jeans Culture Popularity93.1 The Concept of Freedom and Equality93.2 Jeans Characteristics93.3 Designers Creative Ideas103.4 The Update of Denim Fabric113.5 The Environmental Awareness113.5.1 Back to Nature123.5.2 Sports and Leisure Concepts Stimulation124 Conclusions13Bibliography14AcknowledgementsThe accomplishment of this paper benefits a lot from the enlightenment of my supervisor, Associate Professor, Lu Wenge, whose inspiring insights, generous encouragements, and enthusiastic instructions have facilitated me much throughout my paper writing. She has been in constant concern about my paper, spared no pains to entertain my paper draft. She also teaches me the format of the paper. Her penetrating and insightful comments afford me with inspiring source. Without her consistent and illuminating instruction, this paper could not have reached its present form. She has walked me through all the stages of the writing of this paper. Besides, I would also like to extend my sincere thanks to the Foreign Language all my teachers. Thanks to their instructive guidance and comprehensive education during the four years, I can acquire the opportunity to further study English. Here, my great gratitude also goes to all my friends, especially my roommates who gave me their help and time in listening to me and helping me work out my problems during the difficult course of the paper. Finally, I am truly grateful to my parents. It is them who brought me up and give me financial support through my college life. Wang Xiaoxu May 20, 2010【摘 要】本文通过对牛仔裤的社会内涵的分析研究,表明随着时代的发展,服饰社会功能也会发生相应的变化,而牛仔裤不断改革、不断创新、追求自由和洒脱、忽略等级和性别差别、摆脱束缚的精神则是对人类现代文明最好的诠释,本文还介绍了牛仔裤的由来及其发展、普及的过程,从牛仔精神,面料及设计师参与设计等方面分析了牛仔装之所以盛行不衰的原因。【关键字】 牛仔装;平等;文明;发展;流行【Abstract】Through the analysis of the social connotation of jeans, the paper expounds that the social function of garment will be changed correspondingly with the development of society. The social spirit of jeans is the best interpretation of human modern civilization which support of evolution, creation, pursuit of freedom and ease, regardless of racial or sex discrimination. And the paper also introduces the origin and the course of the development and popularity of jeans wear, the reason for the long lasting life of jeans from the aspects of jeans spirit, characters, material and designers participation.【Key Words】 jeans;equality;civilization;development;popularityii1 Introduction1.1NecessityBell-bottoms came and went, came back and then left again. Top hats had their era. Platform shoes had an intense, yet short life. Polyester made a brief appearance. At one time, sailor suits could be seen everywhere, but not anymore. Hot pants come and go. Yet jeans seem to survived. They have achieved the impossible: remaining a major trend from the eighteenth century to the present day. Jeans - trousers made of denim clothing - have survived through the decades and the centuries. All trends tend to become old and eventually lose their place in society, some more quickly than others. Whether it is clothing, music, hairstyles or attitudes, all seem to have a time limit. Fashion, in any category, has often made it across borders, oceans, social classes and genders, but few have made it through time. Jeans have made it through all of the above, and more. They have made the ultimate transition from being a trend to being a classic. Popularity usually comes with an expiration date, but apparently not for jeans. Dressed up or down, jeans always look sophisticated, fresh and are definitely a “go to” piece of clothing in closet when there is nothing else to wear.So why it is that jeans have survived through time and achieved the seemingly impossible? How did jeans manage to remain prevailing for more than a century, from one generation to the next, all over the world and equally between both genders? What is the key to survival in general? Evolution makes sense. In order to survive, something must adapt to its ever-changing environment. This principle applies to all things, alive and non-living. Without adaptation comes extinction. It is essential to evolve. Jeans have done exactly that, it survived from the unpredictable fashion trends and remains to be the shinning star. And this is the necessity to analyze the jeans culture. 1.2 Hypothesis and its Significance People are working together to make life more simple, more natural and more humane, efforts of changing life-styles have gradually faded the original life center, and this encodes the individual pursuit of life. In hundreds years of denims popularity, jeans culture, as an element of public civilization, keeps accumulating and developing, it demonstrates humans infinite creation in society transformation. Keep attention into jeans culture, many of todays most compelling topics can attached to its connotations, such as anti-war, anti-cold war, personal liberation, emancipation of women, environmental protection, etc. it is significant to comprehend jeans culture.2 Jeans Culture History and Connotations As the outside package of human, clothing is marked with the society culture; it is the appearance of the value, belief of the religion, stands of poverty. The invention of jeans begins clothing revolution; the traditional clothing culture was destroyed. In the closet of every classes for male or female, the civilians or the important figure even the super stars, jeans is the indispensable element, where does the irresistible charming come from? And what the accurate signals it stands for? This part will discuss the jeans history development and the culture connotations.2.1 The Development History of JeansNot born to be gorgeous, jeans has a progress to become popularity, it was developed history can be divided as two period: 18th-1980s, the 2000 till now.2.1.1 The Initial Stage As everyone knows, jeans originated in the western United States; during the 18th century by laborers who worked in factories because the denim was durable and cheap. The gold rush of 1849 stimulates the pants became popular among the miners which spurred Loeb Strauss (who later changed his name to Levi) to create the first brand of jeans, Levis. From here jeans popularity steadily gained momentum in the U.S. but didnt catch on until they gained favor among teenagers during the 1950s. During the 50s, jeans emerged as a symbol of rebellion for American youth, and James Dean, the leading man of the time, coined the radical look in his film “Rebel without a Cause.” Then during the 1960s and 70s, styles of jeans finally started to branch out and take on various styles. Officially, jeans designer emerged during the 1980s, when they showed up on haute couture runways. 2.1.2 The Mature PeriodAlthough denim designer existed as early as the 80s, it wasnt until 2000 denim experienced a re-birth. During 2000, denim morphed from relaxed throw-on pants to high-end that flattered your figure perfectly. The pioneer of this re-birth of jeans was of course, the famous jean manufacturer, Seven for All Mankind, which originated in Los Angeles. “Sevens,” were the first brand of “premium denim” (premium denim uses the finest denim from Italy and Japan) and quickly gained a cult following. Shortly after, other manufacturers of jeans started emerging; jeans were regarded as glamorous, custom-fit pieces that came in new sleek styles to flatter various body types and were perfect for a night out on the town. The introduction of Sevens in fashion prompted the creation of other denim companies, such as Citizens of Humanity, Rock and Republic, Paige, and Paper Denim & Cloth. More recently, jean newcomers Tsubi and Rich and Skinny have become popular staples in Hollywood. A way to distinguish between these brands has become the stitching on the back pockets of the jean or signature details of the brand (for instance, True Religion jeans bear noticeable stitching that differentiates them from their competition). Maybe were only concerned with labels as a result of our excessive consumerism in the U.S., but jeans for our generation have become a status symbol. Just as McDonalds and Coca-Cola, jeans become the Spokesman of American popular culture.2.2 Jeans Culture ConnotationsFrom the beginning to now, jeans has been developed into various of styles with numerous creative ideas, every new changes has its special meaning, so the connotations of jeans culture becomes broader and broader.2.2.1 Elimination of Hierarchy, Advocacy of Nationalism and DemocracyIn the process of clothing development, although conceptions established in clothing culture is the plane with two different three-dimensional mode, they all have similar social background and relations of production, feudal societys economic and agricultural civilized way of life, making costumes and cultural awareness in the same field, around the palace and the imperial power, based on social hierarchy, top-down epidemic transmission patterns, to determine such a period, the apparel community function to reflect the persons status, rank, rights, wealth, religion and so on, the emphasis on “Etiquette” era, clothing has gone beyond the usual aesthetic function, as the community level and means of mental control. The emperor has clothes on “Nine chapter” decorated which is nine patterns. Painted coat of five dragons, mountains, Chinese insect, fire, Zong Yi , civilian can not wear the official color, even dressed on secretly, they will have a psychological fear, that is from blame of the whole society and official sanctions.However, the bourgeoisie accumulated the power since the industrial revolution, takes place of the feudal society, be in the implementation of equality, freedom and the spirit of fraternity which also reflected from their clothing. Nowadays, each of us were wearing shirt and jeans walking through on the street, people can not just classify social status judge costumes from the differences of dress . People are free to choose their favorite costume. From the first century BC, with the rise of Hollywood Westerns of the boom, jeans, by its casual wear way, attracts the attention of the youngest, juniors wearing jeans became a fashion, 70s jeans have become a hot dress, whether ordinary blue-collar or white collar class, even the President of the United States has put on the jeans. Whats add fuel to the fire, the king cat -Elvis Presley, super star- Marlon Brando and other popular artistes fascinate in jean ,jeans has gradually gain the attention of the world with no doubtful. The most meaningful event is that at the 200 anniversary of National Day in 1976, on the occasion of the United States, Americans regard jeans as American cultures contribution to human clothing, and they sent them to the National Museum in Miami, from this can estimate the fact that the social traditional dress culture meaning began to be challenged. Actually, the process that jeans were widely accepted by people maps the dress subtle cultural and social functions changes. From the twentieth century six decades, before the outside the mainstream design work comes to be the epidemic, to create a new style, they always absorbed the lower-class subculture nutrition.2.2.2 Respect for IndividualityFrom the first day it was produced, jeans own a people-oriented content. This is from the origin of jeans. First, in the northern Italian port, where sailors like wearing a local production work pants made of sturdy rough cloth which is called jeans; second, a Jewish merchant take use of a kind of rough canvas to draw the United States attention and thus created the historic one pair of jeans, Levi Strauss. The Myth of the Kingdom of San Francisco started from the United States, he had make rough canvas tents into pants for the production of the miners which is the magical first pair of jeans, a hard and tough and durable work clothes. From the two origins , it can easily get that people chose jeans is for fancy jeans exactly the affordable prices and durable materials, this unique and practical performance, not only to meet basic human needs while also reflects the people-oriented social connotations. With the development of society, besides the basic utility function jeans have another particular feature, respecting personality is the potential development point of jeans. The traditional suits rules people have to be put into a depressed individual social status, rank status, and wealth right marsh. Because the social function of traditional clothing, peoples dress shows a too rational order and thousands of people face shows the same appearance. To meet this social function, people have to accept fashion designers, personal image consultant and requirements of various proposals and even sacrifice the basic comfort functions, wear tight-fitting bras and very straight tie Pani Ai dress. However, jeans are completely different, every creation process, every new style embody the interactive between designer and the wearer. It is not a single expression of designer talent, but the consumers unique personality filled with rich emotion vent. High class fashion is the designer dress and show areas of individual talent, but jeans are a paradise for designers and consumers interact. While the designers are looking for the voice and face of old jeans, the street hippie punk select the blade to express their rush mulberry and nostalgia. It is no longer with the past, classical art and modern art with purity here, the object of direct involvement blurs the arts and non-art boundary. In the post-modern society, everyone is an artist, raised at the era of punk in 70s. Even today DIY (do it yourself) is still popular. It is this spirit that makes the popular jeans continue to be the vanguard. 2.2.3 Promotion in Gender EqualityIn the development process in the apparel, men have a strict definition of clothing, but clothing has also become one of the means to attract the opposite sex. The costume change is the status of both men and women in society determined. In the matriarchal society, because of the need for human survival, reproductive worship became the main social activities of society; therefore, women in a dominant position, to please them, men through various means, to show their courage and strong, of which clothing as the main performance targets. With the development of society, rising productivity gradually raise the status of men ,males final get the position of domination, thus, females at a great deal to dress herself, or even at the risk of life. In China , the most typical record is “the king Chu is in favor of slender waist, which result lots of women in palace starved to death” in the West, in pursuit of slender waist, women actually using the iron corset, all these are mean to won the favor of the opposite sex, and seek a seat of survival.Ancient traditional costumes aesthetics of gender role differences, men need to demonstrate the beauty of strong, free and easy while women should be modified with quality of skilled, of feminine. However, as to social development nowadays, men and womens social status gradually becomes more balanced, traditional social values under attacking, particularly the industrial revolution of 19th century and the two world wars in the 20th century, with the rapid economic development, more and more women go into society. In order to be recognized, they need to play the same role as men. The success of this role play, including the expression psychological factors and external image of the performance, of the external image garment is undoubtedly the best performance. The paradox in traditional jeans, clothing beyond the concept of androgynous gender is advocated, and the pursuit of modern people and its dominant neutral clothing thought weaken sex characteristics. The appliance and invention of zip has changed peoples usual original fixed type, whether clothes or pants, have been replaced location of the center zipper and the neutral color are suitable for all ages. Jeans herald the blossom of the gender equality thought rapid development in modern society; women are no longer the weak one, with no self-restraint in order to please their men. Meanwhile, due to the accelerated pace of society, the traditional dress has been exhausted in the way that people are tired of, to reduce the self-pressure, people choose to deliberately pursue self-image of the neutral clothing, to find a trace of spiritual consolation. 2.2.4 The Symbol of Modernization and the Carrier of Technological ProgressThe industrial revolution in t

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