Dress-and-Adornment-Culture.ppt

Lecture3 Dress Adornment FunctionandCharacteristic SilkandSilkRoad EmbroideryandBatik TypicalChineseCostumes HistoryandEvolution Contents Dress Adornment HistoryandEvolution Forthousandsofyears generationsofclothingdesignersandgarmentmakersinChinahavedevotedthemselvestobuildingthe GarmentKingdom makingthegarmentsthatcoverthehumanbodyanimportantcomponentofChineseculture Inprimitivesociety theChineselivedincaves Tokeepwarm theycoveredthemselveswithnaturalmaterialslikeleaves grassesandanimalfurs HistoryandEvolution TheinventionofsewingallowedtheearlyChinesetomakebetterfittingclothestoprotectthemfromharshconditions thusassistingthemintheiradaptabilityandconsequentlyresultingintheexpansionoftheirterritoriesandanincreaseintheirproductivity HistoryandEvolution DevelopmentofClothing AsearlyastheZhouDynasty garmentswerealreadyclassifiedintosacrificialattire courtattire armyuniform mourningattireandweddingattire ThetraditionwasbrokenduringtheSpringandAutumnandtheWarringStatesperiodwhentheideaoffashionreachednewheights TheQinandHandynastieswitnessedtheunificationofChinaanditswrittenlanguage ChineseclothingdevelopedrapidlyduringtheWei Jin andSouthernandNortherndynasties DuringtheSuiDynasty allpoorpeoplehadtowearblackandblueclothes andonlytherichpeoplecouldwearothercolors IntheTangDynasty clothingwasmorevariedthanbeforebecausethestatewasmoreopentotheoutsideworld CasualwearappearedduringtheSongDynasty andclothesweresimpleandelegant Butduringthisdynasty itbecamefashionableforwomentobindtheirfeetinordertokeepthemsmall DuringtheYuanDynasty theMongolianethnicgroup knownasthepeopleonhorseback wasinpower Thesimpleandunadorned 朴素的 styleofclothingwasmainlyacombinationofMongolianandHaninfluences DramaticchangestookplaceduringtheMingDynasty Therewasnolimitationtoonestyleandnaturalbeautywasadvocated thusbringingvigorandvitalitytoclothingculture DuringtheQingDynasty clothesbecameelegantandpoised 威严的 Chinesegarmentsofthe20thcenturyrangedgreatlyinstyleandincludedtheqipao Chinesetunicsuit studentuniform Lenin stylesuit Russiandress miniskirt bikini punk 怪异服装 andT shirt FunctionandCharacteristic practicalfunction coveringthebody 适身体 和肌肤aestheticfunction creatingapleasingimage 衣服容貌者 所以悦目也socialfunction identifyingthesocialstatus 贵贱之别 望而知之 SilkandtheSilkRoad BeingaChineseinvention silkwasproducedandusedonlyinChinaforalongperiodoftime DuringtheTangDynasty 30percentofthetradewassilk Ithasalookandfeelingofrichnessthatnootherfabriccanmatch Aromanticlegendaboutthediscoveryofsilk keywords EmperorHuang sreigninthe30thCenturyBC afather hisdaughter amagichorse apromise ifthehorsecouldfindherfather shewouldmarryit killedtheinnocenthorse amiracle silkworm 蚕 sheweptlongandthinsilkenthreads missingherfather Thebusinessofraisingsilkwormsandunwindingcocoonsisknownassilkcultureorsericulture 养蚕业 Aman snecktieneedsrawsilkfrom111cocoons andawoman sblousefrom630cocoons SuzhouisthegenerallyrecognizedhomeofChinesesilkorthesilkcapitalofChina ThelargerangeofSuzhousilk longknownforitsqualityandbeauty findsabriskmarketinmorethan100countriesandregionsaroundtheworld TheSilkRoadTheSilkRoadwasthemaintraderouterunningthroughAsiainancienttimes ItstartedfromtheWeishuiValley 渭水流域 intheeastandendedontheeastcoastoftheMediterranean 地中海 fromwhereitledtovariousplacesaroundEurope FromtheWesternHanDynastyon China ssilkwasexportedviathisroutetotheWest andthusacloserlinkbetweenChinaandtheWestwasformed andculturalexchangesandfriendlyvisitswerepromoted Throughthesilktrade Chinesegarmentdesignandstylehaditsgreatestimpactontherestoftheworld Conversely garments craftsandstylesofothercountrieshadtheirownprofoundinfluenceonChinesegarmentsaswell AlthoughtheancientSilkRoadhaslostitsoriginalfunction thenumerousrelicsalongthewaystillattractmanytourists Video Viewthevideoclipintroducingsilk andtrytoputthescriptintoEnglish 人们向往杭州 既钟情于风光旖旎的西子湖 也爱慕那色彩缤纷 优美华贵的丝织品 从新石器时代到公元前五世纪 中国是世界上唯一一个生产丝织品的国家 那时的中国官员在出国访问的时候 常常把丝绸做为贵重礼物馈赠给各国友人 以表示尊敬 Embroidery 刺绣 EmbroideryisatraditionalChinesehandicraftfeaturingflowers birdsandsceneryonsilkorotherclothincoloredsilkthreads Chineseembroiderydatesbackover3 000years Ithasdistinctregionalandethniccharacteristics EmbroideryinChinaisgenerallyclassifiedinto ShuEmbroidery 蜀绣 fromSichuan SuEmbroidery 苏绣 fromSuzhou XiangEmbroidery 湘绣 fromHunanYueEmbroidery 粤绣 fromGuangdong Shuembroideryisfamousforitssimplicity Suforitsextremelydelicatestitches Xiangforitsrichcolors Yueforitscomplicatedpatterns Batik BatikorwaxprintingisatraditionalChinesefolkart whichcombinespaintinganddying ItpresentsavarietyofethnicstylesandismostpopularamongtheBuyi theMiaoandtheYaoethnicgroups Batikinvolvespainstakingworkbutfollowsarathersimpleprocess First beeswax 黄蜡 ismeltedinabowl Thenaspecialbrassknifeisusedtospreadsomeoftheliquidwaxontoacottonclothformingpatternsasithardens Theclothisimmersed 浸入 completelyintoajarofindigo 靛蓝染料 withtheunwaxedclothtakingoncolor Thedyedclothisboiledtomeltoffthewax leavingclearwhitepatternsonabluebackground Batikclothcanbemadeintogarments scarves kerchiefs bags table cloths bedspreads curtains andotherdecorativeitems TypicalChineseCostumes ChineseTunicSuitChineseCheongsam qipao TheTangCostume ChineseTunicSuit TheChineseTunicSuitorzhongshanzhuangwasauniformthatDr SunYat senlikedtowearandalsorecommendedtothepeopleofthecountrytowear Atunicusuallyhasfourpocketsandaturndowncollar securedwithfivecentralbuttons ChineseCheongsam qipao ThecheongsamisaclassicdressforChinesewomenwiththeelaborateeleganceofChinesetraditionalstyle Itenjoysagrowingpopularityintheinternationalworldofhighfashion Thecheongsamiseasyandcomfortabletowear snuglyfittingthefemaleChinesefigure Itsnecklineishigh collarclosed anditssleevesmaybeshort mediumorfulllength dependingontheseasonorthewearer staste Thedressisbuttonedontherightside withaloosebodice afittedwaist andside slitstothehem allofwhichcombinetosetoffthebeautyofthefemale sfigure TheTangCostume LiketheCheongsam theTangcostumeisanotherrepresentativeofChinesenationalcostumes ItderiveditsnamenotjustbecauseitsdesignersgotinspirationsfromthecostumesoftheTangDynastybutalsobecausetheTangDynastywasaprosperousperiodinChinesehistory EthnicAttire TheethnicgroupsofChinahaveproducedfanciful colorfulcostumeswithdistinctivestylesandstunningornamentalaccessories Becauseoftheuseofcostlymaterials delicatecraftsmanship andvariousstylesandexquisitepatterns Chineseethnicattireisarichcostumetreasury Tibetanrobe zangpao Itisloosefittingwithlongsleevesandawider than usualwaist Thefrontopensfromtherightside WhenaTibetanmandresses hetendstowearonlyonesleeveoftherobeandpullstheothersleevearoundhisbacktothefront Itisahabitthathasmuchtodowiththeweather Women sclothesarequitesimilar buttheirdressesareevenmorecolorful Theloosegarmentfromthecollardownisopenonaslanttoshowthesilkblouseinside Eachwomancombinesherdresswithabeautifulshawldrapedoverhershouldersandacolorfulapronaroundherwaist Miao stylesilverjewelryWhenagirlisbornintoaMiaofamily herparentssaveonfoodandexpensessoastopurchaseacompletesetofsilverjewelryforher Theset 15kgintotalweight includesacrown horns earrings neckband chestplaque 胸章 clothingornament waistband andbracelets Ittakesmorethanonehourforayoungwomantodressinallt