福来鸡和政治进食

纽约时报 福来鸡和政治进食 Chick fil A and the Politics of Eating 2015 年 10 月 9 日 由 GINIA BELLAFANTE 像许多父母独自幻想一个星期在大苏尔 盯着大海 总是紧张的过程后存放一个小孩在 学校在早上 我经常去买一杯咖啡时 不得不满足于几分钟的减压和热的液体 在我的社区 在布鲁克林 有几个选项和最努力的小擦伤陈词滥调 我的意思是 咖啡师和收银员很年轻 wool capped 友好和 imperious looking 如果他们总是问自己如何 其他从业者的表现主义 街戏院只是获得古根海姆 Like many parents who fantasize about a week alone at Big Sur staring into the ocean after the invariably stressful process of depositing a young child at school in the mornings I often go get a cup of coffee when it is all over obliged to settle for a few minutes of decompression and hot liquid In my neighborhood in Brooklyn there are several options and most make little effort to abrade clich by which I mean that the baristas and cashiers are young wool capped unfriendly and imperious looking as if they were always asking themselves how it was possible that some other practitioner of Expressionist street theater just won a Guggenheim 在去年我的一个陷入困境的队列建议我们去星巴克 因为它是更容易 因为咖啡不是远 程异常在我们要去的任何地方 At some point last year one of my beleaguered cohort suggested that we just go to Starbucks because it was easier and because the coffee wasn t remotely exceptional at any of the places we were going anyway 张成的空间内一些访问 我被当作一个普通 迎接的名字 我的顺序记忆 在一个 跨国公司的前哨 状态我从未给予独立咖啡馆 在表面上是亲密诱惑的一部分 除此之外 工 人们在我曾去过的地方主要是白色 而这个特定的星巴克的工作人员几乎完全非白人 Within the span of a few visits I was treated as a regular greeted by name my order memorized at an outpost of a multinational corporation a status I had never been accorded at independent coffee bars where intimacy is ostensibly part of the lure Beyond that the workers at the places I had been going were largely white while the staff at this particular Starbucks was almost entirely nonwhite 最近几天 城市消费主义的复杂政治一直上演最明显 与菲尔的到来 亲共和党的习惯的 图腾 在纽约市 由公共住房的保守的基督教的孩子 美国特鲁特凯蒂 在格鲁吉亚 在 20 世 纪中期 菲尔受到火在过去几年在评论由创始人的儿子丹 凯西公司的主席 反对同性婚姻 In recent days the complicated politics of urban consumerism have been playing out most visibly with the arrival of Chick fil A a totem of red state habits in New York City Created by a conservative Christian child of public housing S Truett Cathy in Georgia in the mid 20th century Chick fil A has come under fire during the past few years over comments made by the founder s son Dan Cathy the company s president in opposition to same sex marriage 这些言论随后披露公司的基金会捐赠了大量的钱来组织努力阻止同性婚姻的合法化 主张开始抵制链 试图阻止新的特许经营在全国开放 Those remarks followed revelations that the company s foundation had donated considerable sums of money to groups working to prevent the legalization of same sex marriage Advocates began boycotting the chain and tried to stop new franchises from opening across the country 克里斯汀 c 奎因 2012 年 时任市议会议长表示反对该公司宣称这是不受欢迎的 并写了 一封信给约翰 塞克斯顿纽约大学的总统 敦促他摆脱菲尔的摊位 在学校的美食广场之一 迈克尔 r 布隆伯格市长不同意她 前一年 纽约大学的学生参议员委员会投票没有禁止链式 的言论自由 现在的城市是菲尔的主机最大的分支 在曼哈顿市中心的三层空间跨越 5000 平方英尺 在美洲大道 37 街 In 2012 Christine C Quinn who was then the City Council speaker spoke out against the company proclaiming that it was not welcome in the city and wrote a letter to John Sexton the president of New York University urging him to get rid of a Chick fil A stall that had a presence in one of the school s food courts Mayor Michael R Bloomberg disagreed with her The year before N Y U s Student Senators Council had voted not to ban the chain on the grounds of free expression Now the city is host to the largest branch of Chick fil A in the country a three story space spanning 5 000 square feet in Midtown Manhattan on the Avenue of the Americas at 37th Street 就开了这个月 活动人士站在长长的队伍前面提醒的人出现公司的违法行为 动物权利 活动家 福音派信仰的捍卫者 谁有中和同性恋权利倡导者的声音 As soon as it opened this month activists stood out front to remind the long lines of people who showed up of the company s transgressions Animal rights activists came too as did defenders of the evangelical faith who were there to neutralize the voice of gay rights advocates 开幕式发言人菲尔认为在纽约和新餐馆在西雅图市区最成功的公司的历史上 这表明简 单的爱一个炸鸡三明治是普遍存在的 或者至少在某种程度上 这对同性婚姻的最高法院的 决定了任何问题广泛抗议的一个有争议的问题 在另一个 去年丹 凯西说 他后悔将公司插 入到平等的争论 Spokesmen for Chick fil A contend that the opening in New York and new restaurants in the Seattle metropolitan area have been among the most successful in the company s history which suggests simply that the love of a fried chicken sandwich is universal or at least to some extent that the Supreme Court s decision on same sex marriage has made any question of widespread protest a moot point In another turn last year Dan Cathy said that he regretted inserting the company into the equality debate 同时 有很多的人永远不会去菲尔因为争议之前 作为记者采访路人在曼哈顿新发现的 位置 至少一部分的那些批评者 但将继续去昂贵的餐馆状态在纽约或洛杉矶或旧金山女招 待 侍应生和服务员很少少数民族的成员 或者 超重或不愉快 At the same time there are plenty of people who will never go to Chick fil A because of prior controversy as reporters who interviewed passers by at the new Manhattan location discovered At least some portion of those detractors though will continue to go to expensive farm to table restaurants in New York or Los Angeles or San Francisco where hostesses ma tre d s and members of the wait staff are rarely minorities or for that matter overweight or unpleasant looking 他们中的一些人可能会继续在 Whole Foods 购物 自由都市生活的终极象征 其创始人 之一 许多商人一样 约翰 麦基艾茵 兰德表示赞赏 Some of them might continue to shop at Whole Foods the ultimate emblem of liberal urbanism whose co founder John Mackey like so many businessmen has expressed appreciation for Ayn Rand 在曼哈顿新菲尔系列开始其薪级表 11 美元一个小时 对于那些没有餐厅的经验 这超 过了超过 2 美元目前的最低工资在纽约州 计划在几年内达到每小时 15 美元 超过起薪 动摇 棚屋 一幅备受推崇的雇主在纽约 1 美元 菲尔还指出其慈善捐款 中城分支已经捐出了 250 磅的鸡的纽约公共厨房 贡献了超过 6800 万美元在过去三年的慈善机构致力于改善 教育和减轻贫困 The new Chick fil A franchise in Manhattan begins its salary scale at 11 an hour for those with no restaurant experience This exceeds by more than 2 the current minimum wage in New York State scheduled to reach 15 an hour in several years and surpasses starting salaries at Shake Shack a much admired employer in New York by 1 Chick fil A is also noted for its charitable contributions the Midtown branch has already given away 250 pounds of chicken to the New York Common Pantry having contributed more than 68 million during the past three years to charities working to improve education and