服装设计论文-译文.doc

Heat-Treating and DryingThe rough-cut blocks of hornbeam of European beech are placed in a cylindrical chamber and hear-treated at a pressure of two to three atmospheres and a temperature of 250F120Cto destroy unbonded fluids, acids, and fungi and render the wood insensitive to moisture and temperature differences. Some 7 ounces 200g of water is evaporated from an 18-ounce 500g block of wood. The fibers of the wood become denser and at the same time more resilient. When a nail is driven into a piece of wood that has been heat-treated, the fibers are forced apart; when the nail is removed, they return to their original positions. After heat-treating, both ends of the blocks are coated with wax so that in subsequent drying the fluid in the wood will evaporate at the lateral surfaces and the ends will not crack. Now the period of natural drying begins; this lasts some two years. Although the moisture content of the wood falls to 16-18% over this period, it must be further reduced to 10-12% before it can undergo further processing. Forced drying chamber lasts about three weeks. The blocks of wood are exposed to an airflow initially at a temperature of 68F20 C, which is gradually raised to 85-100F30-40C and finally to 120 F50C The moisture content of the wood is checked continually. Neither forced nor natural drying (storage in a shed) can be hurried. If the blocks of wood are put into the dryer to soon, for example most of them will crack or become deformed, losing the very quality for which they were selected for lastmaking: their resilience. After many years of preparation the block of wood is ready for delivery to the lastmakers workshop to be made into a last. In the following pages we shall find out some of the secrets of the lastmakers art and how a good-quality last is made-the basis of a good-quality shoe. Preparing the Custom-made Last by HandMany lastmakers workshop still contain tools that have been in use for over a hundred years. Two of them from Kalman Bertas workshop would not be out of place in a museum. One of these is a long-bladed guillotine used for the initial shaping of the last block: its hooked onto one end of the workbench and can be moved freely, in both vertical and horizontal directions. One the block has been shaped with the guillotine, the lining sole, shaped with the assistance of the draft, is drawn on one side of it. The lastmaker then saws off its wax-coated ends and begins to shape it with the axe. The block is laid on the workbench and repeatedly turned in the direction from which it can be most easily reached with the guillotine blade. The lastmaker applies the guillotine at a suitable angle and presses down on its handle to remove shavings of the desired thickness from the appropriate points. Even at this early stage he is guided by the data in the customers measurement record regarding the length, girth, and type of the shoes required. The finer bulges and hollows are produced with the wood-carving knife and the rasp, which is then used to refine them; this process also removes the marks left by tools used earlier, as well as any surface unevennesses. After making his final measurements the lastmaker will use sandpaperfirst coarse, then increasingly fineto give the last its ultimate from and a completely smooth surface.generation n These are the skills involved in making a last by hand, but these is also a long tradition of the used of machinery-to a limited degree-in making a last. Most lastmakers today will use a duplicator. The LastmakerThe Berta lastmaking workshop founded in Papa, Hungary, in 1870 is the only one of its kind in the country, supplying top-class shoemaking workshop in England, Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, and Italy with lasts and shoe trees. Kalman Berta, now 78, is one of the few true masters of his father before him. Most of our tools have been handed down from generation to generation, just like our love of the craft. My grandfather Marton traveled to Germany in 1867 to learn the art of his lastmaking there. He visited several places before reaching the town of Pirmasens, the last stage of his journey, where he found a lastmaker willing to initiate him into the secrets of manual lastmaking. He worked there for more than two years. In the nineteenth century Pirmasens was one of the strongholds of the shoemakers craft. Over a well in its castle square there was a statue of a shoemaker by the name of Joss, holding a last in one hand and a shoemakers hammer in the other. “My grandfather used to carve symmetric lasts based on a paper from. One he had passed the guild examination by producing a last than met with the approval of its members, he returned to Hungary, where he laid the foundation stone for his workshop 125 years ago. He built a cable-driven machine that made the heavy carving work a bit easier, and carried on using it until 1911-when he went to Vienna and bought a state-of-the-art duplicator and a planning machine. “In the 1930s, I remember, members of the family used to go round selling the lasts we made in our little workshop. Every week or two there used to be a market in the Komitat, the largest Hungarian administrative unit, where you could get shoes, lasts, clothing, and other everyday requirements. On those days we used to load our lasts onto a horse-drawn wagon before dawn, take them to market, and offer them to the shoemakers. “I learned the tricks of the trade from my father and grandfather in my childhood. A good lastmakers senses the wood with his fingertips and palms, he can tell the lie of the fibers inside it, and knows where and how he must use the saw and the knife to remove only the excess wood. A good lastmaker knows instinctively how to make a good last from the basic block of wood. His skill is the soul of the last. “The shoemaker and the lastmaker speak the same knowledge, because each of them has an intimate knowledge of the others work. The shoemaker knows that fine, comfortable shoes can only be made on a well-formed last, and the lastmaker must have a mental picture of the shoe that is going to be made on the last. Even after 60 years my heart beats faster every time I approach the guillotine to create a new last.” Kalman Berta can be seen here concentrating on producing yet another fine last, one of the many that he has produced over the decades. It is to be hoped that he has been able to pass on his admirable skills to new generations of lastmakers. A family tradition such as that of the Bertas mast not be allowed to die out-it would be a tragedy if it did. Preshaping Because shaping the last by hand is extraordinary laborious and time-consuming, the so-called duplicator is now used throughout the world. The American Thomas Blanchard patented this type of lathe-which can produce irregular shapes in wood, such as rifle butts and, indeed, lasts-in Massachusetts, USA, in 1819. His invention was the basis of machines with which lasts- first symmetric, later asymmetric-were produced. In the 1920s the predecessor of the duplicators used today came on the marketrent; it was capable of producing left and right lasts at the same time. Present-day machines take only five or six minutes to produce a pair of lasts. If, for example, the figures on the measurement sheet for the length of the customers feet and the girth of his metatarsals indicate that he needs a size 8% , medium width, but that both insteps are above average height, a form of size 9, width 7 is selected. If his feet are of different lengths, for example the left is an 8 and the right an 8%, then the formes selected are of size 8% and 9 respectively. In the first case the right and left lasts are copies simultaneously from the form mounted in the duplicator, while in the second a size 8% left rough last and a size 9 right rough last are made separately. The use of the duplicator may have been frowned on when it was first introduced, but today it is accepted as necessary to the lastmakers trade. It certainly does not mean that he requires any less skill to produce the lasts-only that he can save time by using this valuable machine.Rough Copying Two heat-treated and wax-coated blocks of wood are mounted in the duplicator and rough lasts for both feet are simultaneously copied from the form. A sensing system automatically follows the shape of the form and guides the sharp-edged cutter heads. The two wooden blocks rotate in opposite directions beneath the cutter heads, enabling the right and left lasts to be shaped simultaneously. Here the machine executes the rough-copying process, the initial stage in the shaping of the duplicate last. Fine coping When the lastmaker changes the machine setting to fine, the shaping process is continued with meticulous accuracy. The cutting heads are replaced by abrasive wheels, which first eradicate the edges of the grooves left by the cutting heads and then, working from the heel to the tip and back again, remove thin layers of wood until last is the same shape and size as the form. Modern duplicators are capable of producing copies accurate to minute fractions of an inch. So making the lastmakerss task that much easier.Final AdjustmentsThe lastmaker saws off the ends by which the lasts were mounted in the duplicator. He then drills a horizontal hole (picture top left ) through the instep to make the last easier to remove from the completed shoe. The next process has a similar purpose: since the last cannot be removed in one piece, a gently curving wedge is swan out of it (picture top right).While the shoe is being made this wedge must not protrude, so the lastmaker drills a vertical hole through both pieces, inserts a locating stud in it, and bolts them together (picture above).Custom-made LastThe Removal MethodTow typical methods are generally used to shape rough lasts into custom-made lasts, a process known as fitting up. In the first method the last is given its individual shape by taking material away, in the second by adding it. The completed rough lasts-which are always slightly larger than required-finally reach the shoemakers workshop. If the foot is narrower or the instep lower than the average, the shoemaker-guided by the measurement sheet-uses his rasp and various grades of sandpaper to give the last its ultimate form; in other words he takes material away. The completed last is then roughened up with fine sandpaper so that the various types of leather will not slide this way and that on its surface when the shoe is being made.The Addition Method This lastmaking method recalls the most venerable traditions. Here, too, corrections are made in line with the measurement sheets, taking account of critical points. The characteristic places where the lastmaker most ofen has to make corrections are the outer rim of the sole, the metatarsals, the big toe, the instep, and the heel. It is extremely unusual for the foot to be smaller than the average at these places. It is far more common for the foot to be wider-for example, the instep and the big toe higher or the heel thicker. In the addition method the last is built up into the correct shape by sticking on various pieces of leather of the required thickness. If the deviation is very large, several layers of leather can be placed on top of one another.Corrected Custom-made LastsIt is easy for the shoemaker to construct a pair of shoes on lasts produced by the addition method, that is by having pieces of leather stuck on. But the leather may get misshapen during the process, or even fall off. So if the customer wants several pairs of shoes to be made for of him on the same set of lasts, it is safer to use the built-up lasts as formes for making final custom-made lasts. The left and right lasts, corrected with leather attachments, are returned to the lastmakers workshop, where they are used as formes for making new custom-made lasts. A prefabricated but slightly larger last is processed with the abrasive wheels. Within a few minutes the fine-copying process produces the custom-made last appropriate to the type of shoe. The last is now ready to be used to make shoes. The shoemaker will examine the new last carefully to make sure it fulfils his requirements. 热处理与干燥欧洲榉木角树的粗切块被放置在一个圆柱腔，在2至3个大气压和温度压力为250F 120的条件下，消除无粘结液，酸，及真菌，降低木材含水率和温度不敏感的差异。一些7盎司200克水是18盎司500克的木块。木材的纤维变得致密并在同一时间更有弹性。当一个钉打入的木头已经过热处理。纤维被迫分开指痕大小的裂缝，拔出钉子时，他们回到原来的位置。 经过热处理木材，使用块蜡涂层，这样可以使以后的木材干燥中的液体会蒸发，在表面和侧面的两端不会裂开的两端。首先，开始自然干燥期，这个为期约两年。虽然木材含水率16-18下降到了这个时期，必须进一步减至10-12，才可以进行进一步的处理。强制干燥室持续约3个星期。木材的块暴露在气流最初温度在68F20 C，它是逐步提升到85-100F30-40C和最后到120 F50C是木材含水率不断检查。 无论是被迫还是自然干燥都是匆忙的存储。如果木材块进入干燥机很快有反应，例如其中大部分将裂缝或变形，失去了对他们必要的质量的lastmaking选择了：他们的应变能力。经过多年的准备木块是运送到lastmaker准备好了吗？加工厂将成为最后的。在下面的页面中我们将找出的lastmaker的秘密。艺术及如何最后是取得了良好的品质，良好的品质鞋的基础。 准备特制的手尾 许多lastmakers研讨会还包含在使用已超过一百年的工具。其中两名来自卡尔曼伯塔。加工厂不会出在博物馆附近的地方。其中之一是一项长期的最后一个块初步成型用的：在一张工作台鹰钩鼻s，可以自由移动的垂直和水平方向。 一个块已形成了的制造单位，唯一的衬里，与草案的协助下形成的，是它的一个侧面绘制。该lastmaker然后把它锯蜡涂完，开始形成与建造它。 一块是放在工作台和屡次遭到的方向，它可以从最容易达成的单位。该lastmaker适用于在适当的角度，压下手柄，以消除从适当的点所需的厚度刨花的单位。即使在这个早期阶段，他的指导原则是在客户的数据。量测记录有关的长度，周长和所需的鞋型。 凸起和凹陷的精细的制作与木雕刀和锉刀，然后被用来改进他们，这一过程还删除任何表面unevennesses所使用的早期的工具左侧的标志。测量后，作出最后的lastmaker将使用砂纸。Cfirst，然后越来越好。首席技术官给其最终从过去到完全顺利surface.generation 这些都是在最后的手工制作所涉及的技能，但这些也是一项长期的传统所用的机器，在有限度的最后决策。今天最后一项将使用复印机。 Lastmaker 讲习班的伯塔lastmaking爸爸，匈牙利成立于1870年，是一个独一无二的国家，提供一流的制鞋车间在英国，奥地利，德国，荷兰，意大利与鞋楦及树木。卡尔曼伯塔，现年78岁，是他父亲的几个真正的大师在他面前。我们的工具，大部分已流传下来的一代又一代，就像我们对工艺的热爱。我的祖父马顿在1867年前往德国学习他lastmaking艺术那里。他走访了才到达皮尔马森斯镇几个地方，他的旅程，在那里他发现了一个lastmaker愿意主动参与到他的秘密手册lastmaking最后阶段。他在那里工作了两年多。在19世纪皮尔马森斯是本鞋匠的重要支柱之一。s工艺。在超过1平方米的城堡以及有一个鞋匠由乔斯名称雕像，最后，一个手拿一个鞋匠锤子在其他。 我的祖父用来雕刻对称的基础上持续从纸张。他已通过一个由产生比其成员的批准会见了最后，他回到了匈牙利，在那里他奠定了他125年前研讨会的基石公会考试。他建立了一个电缆为主导的重型机器，雕刻工作较为容易，并使用它进行至1911年，当他来到维也纳买了一套先进的，最先进的复印机和规划机。 在20世纪30年代，我记得，用于销售的持续走轮我们在小作坊的家庭成员。每两个星期以前有一个在Komitat，匈牙利最大的行政单位，市场在那里你可以得到鞋子，衣服和其他日常需求。在这些日子，我们加载到一个马车持续拂晓前，把它们推向市场，并为他们提供的鞋匠。 我从我的父亲和祖父在我的童年业内人士的技巧。一个好的lastmakers感觉用他的指尖和手掌木头，他可以告诉它的内部纤维的谎言，知道他必须在何处以及如何使用锯子和刀只删除多余的木材。一个好的lastmaker本能地知道如何使一个好的最后从木材基本块。 鞋匠和lastmaker讲相同的知识，因为他们拥有的每一个熟悉的需要的工作。鞋匠知道，舒适的鞋只能在一个良好去年成立，并lastmaker必须具有的鞋，将是在最后作出的精神拍成电影。即使60年后我的心跳快每次我接近制造台创建一个新的起点。卡尔曼伯塔可以在这里看到的又一个良好的生产集中，最后一人，他有很多几十年来生产。这是希望他能够在他的令人钦佩的技巧传递给新一代的lastmakers。阿如的Bertas，家庭的传统桅杆不能消亡，这将是一个悲剧，如果有这样做。 Preshaping 由于手工成