[毕业设计精品]粗纺亮丝花式面料的设计与织造

毕业论文课题粗纺亮丝花式面料的设计与织造专业现代纺织技术学生姓名班组08纺织学号指导教师完成日期201146A1A0A3IA4粗纺亮丝花式面料的设计与织造摘要本文介绍了粗纺亮丝花式面料从设计到成品的一系列工艺流程，对粗纺亮丝花式面料的设计和生产流程进行了较为详细的阐述，其中也包括了工厂操作的一些实际操作。通过粗纺银丝花式面料的试织成功，该面料已经投入生产。织物美观大方，又具备个性化，适合做春秋女装面料，在为工厂带来效益的同时，也丰富了粗纺产品设计的经验。A2A5A6A2A5A6A7A8A9A10A11A12A13A14A15A16A17A18A19A20A21ABSTRACTA3IIA4BRIGHTSILKCASHMERETHEDESIGNANDWEAVINGFANCYFABRICSABSTRACTTHISPAPERINTRODUCESTHEBRIGHTSILKCASHMEREFABRICSFROMDESIGNTOFINISHEDPRODUCTFANCYASERIESOFTECHNOLOGICALPROCESSOFBRIGHTSILKCASHMERE,THEDESIGNANDPRODUCTIONOFFANCYFABRICDETAILPROCESSOFEXPLANATION,WHICHALSOINCLUDESAPLANTOPERATINGOFSOMEPRACTICALOPERATIONTHROUGHTHETESTOFCASHMEREFABRICSOFFANCYSILVERSUCCESS,THISFABRICWOVENHASPUTINTOPRODUCTIONFABRICBEAUTIFULGENEROUS,ANDHAVEINDIVIDUATION,SUITABLEFORSPRINGANDAUTUMNDRESSFABRICSFORFACTORYINBENEFITS,BUTALSOENRICHEDTHECASHMEREPRODUCTDESIGNEXPERIENCEKEYWORDSBRIGHTSILKCASHMEREFANCYFABRICDESIGNPROCESSA22A23A24IIIA25目录摘要IABSTRACTII目录III第一章粗纺亮丝花式面料的设计构想111面料定位112产品设计2121外观设计2122面料要求3123组织结构设计3第二章粗纺亮丝花式面料纱线选用521黑色圈圈纱522黑白大肚纱623黑色带亮丝斜毛纱6第三章亮丝花式面料的工艺计算831粗纺亮丝花式面料的穿综方式及色纱排列832工艺参数的计算8321总经根数的计算8322每筘穿入数8323上机筘幅9324筘号的计算9325劈花9326经纱中各色纱线的根数9327百米G11004纱G18339的计算933织G17908工艺G234510A26A27A28IVA29第四章粗纺亮丝花式面料的织造工艺1241G6984经12411G6984经G5364G215912412G6984经G17907G524213413G6984经G7477带数1342穿经1343上机织G1790814第五章粗纺亮丝花式面料的后整理1651G8939G26141652G14085G87121753G9900G5190定G342317结语20参考文献21致谢22G3G3G3A30A31A32A33A34A35A36A37A38A33A39A40A41A42A43A44A451A46第一章粗纺亮丝花式面料的设计构想G19555G11540G1166G12879文G7138的G20652G5242G2469G4649，G1166G1216G993G1889G2345G2345G16774G12362G7393装的G3534本G1457G6264作G11004，G7393装G9188G9188成为一G12193文化，一G12193艺G7427。G1166G1216G18129在G993G7041的G17873求G7044的个性时G4590，个G1166的G7393G20292G6183G6210成了G1166G1216G1817G2010G2533外G11040G4649G12046G14270G6117G451G1319G10628G14270G6117的G15932G10628G6175G8585。G1122G7171每G4407的流行G20056G8991G7171G1128花G1855G19388，G1208G1166G11536花G13569G1093的。G7389G1166G2030G2030G1319G1262到流行的G8680G5699，G7044的时G4590又G6181面G13792来。流行的色G5437G8466式G17246来G17246G3822，流行的G2620G7411G17246来G17246G11713，G17837G13485设计G5084G1216G7092G11109又G3698G2164了一G17959G7044的G19602G20076，大G7389G1259G2487G19602G16855G1055G5875。为了G7368为G1946G11842G3332G6441G6429流行G17247G2195，设计G5084G1216G5942G5942G6238G11458G1821投G2533了G7393装G7380G3534G11796的G7460G17148G252G252面料上来。G16780G3822大G5084G11464G6521从面料上G4559求G9801G5875，通过G5051G3949的G17828G11004面料的各G12193机G10714G17148G5875G451色G5437G1209及G7393G11004性创G17908出一轮G7044的时G4590。此时，面料已G993G1889只G7171G7393装的一G12193简G2345G7460G17148，G13792G9188G9188的演化成为G7393装的一个主G1319G9801魂支柱。11面料定位潮流时装G7171G17246来G17246受G1166G1216欢迎，它穿起来具G7389时G4590风采，穿G11540舒适G451G19555意G451G14270由，又G993失简洁G451大方。那么对其面料的设计开G2469就显得尤为重要，时装面料的开G2469与设计的G11458的在G1122开拓思路，G2469散思维，迎合消费者的穿G11540舒适G451个性化G10714念，设计出创G7044G3423面料，G13485产品带来G7368G20652的附G2164值，同时也G13485公司G1889次来创利的机G1262，并带来一定的社G1262经济效益。时值春G4407，市场上对春秋时装面料的需求也凸显出来，尤其G7171女装面料，结合G6117所在的毛纺工厂的特点，当下要设计出一块具G7389时代特点的女装粗纺面料。G17837块面料要具备时G4590大方，适合广大女性朋友的特点，所G1209面料在外观上要求一定要G7389G7044颖的视觉G5875受来吸引G1166G1216的G11536球，一方面能够G1319G10628出女性典雅大方的G8680G17148，另一方面又要在价格上照顾到大G3822数G1166的经济消费情况。与此同时，还要根据春秋天的G8680候特征来设计G17837块面料，G17837就要求所设计的面料在具G7389一定花G3423G451纹路的同时，G7389良好的G1821泽G451G6175G5875G451柔软G5242G1209及使G11004的舒适性G451耐久性等，透G8680透湿性G451G1457暖性等方面也要兼顾到。A47A48A49A50A51A52A53A54A55A56A57A58A59A60A61A62A472A6312产品设计121外观设计色G5437G7171面料外观风格的重要组成部G2010，G11464G6521G11464G6521影响面料风格的外观特征。要想设计出受大G1259欢迎的面料，就注意颜色的搭配，注意主色G451村色G451点缀色的配合。还G7389颜色层次的变化，层次使织物既G7389立G1319G5875，使G1166G1216G5875受到和谐G451G7389G7477G10714。利G11004各G12193颜色的经纬纱线与织物组织相配合，可G1209在织物G15932面形成各G12193G993同色G5437配合的花G3423团。且外观具G7389较强的立G1319G5875，广泛G11004G1122棉麻丝毛，化纤等各G12879织物中。黑白搭配在G6117G1216的G7097G5132生G8975中G19555G3800可G16277，要想设计出G7044G3423的时装面料，就要具G7389一定的创G7044性和时代色G5437，G7368G2164G12373出时装面料的时G4590G1815G13044，在黑白搭配G2164入银丝效G7536G993G3964G7171一个出G5437的亮点。G6238黑色作为主色，白色来G12228色，亮丝来点缀，G17837G989G12193颜色的搭配在G1319G10628黑白的G4448美搭配效G7536的同时G7368G2164显得时G4590G451G2338G1041，具G7389时代特色。其次G7171面料花G3423的设计，在G17837块面料G18336花G3423主要G19764各色纱线的配色来G17810到花G3423效G7536，花G3423G993行G3838G3809G7446，要G4649G10628简洁G1055美，同时要使织物G15932面G7389一定的G1997凸G5875，G17837要G19764G8503G11842的G17885G6333经纬纱线来G4448成。花式纱线G7380能G15932带出该面料的设计风格，G3252此G6117G1216G2010G2047采G11004圈圈纱和大肚纱作为经纱，圈圈G451大肚G1209及亮丝斜毛纱作为纬纱，能G12373出面料的花式效G7536。根据外观设想与织物，G6117G1216G6238G17837块面料G12228G11540G252粗纺亮丝花式面料，G328211为面料的外观效G7536构想G3282G726A6411A65A66A67A68A64A69A70A71A72A73A74A75A76A77A72A78A79A80A81A82A83A843A85122面料要求根据粗纺亮丝花式面料所G19036对的消费G1166G13688，在G2419料上，G4448G6117G1216G17885G6333G1343410的G13662毛/90化纤为面料的成G2010G6363G7643G727G13783G15397到粗纺亮丝花式面料的外观特点，成品面料要求G6175G5875柔软，G15932面花纹G9177G7236，织纹G3355G2260，G1821泽G21104G7138，G17535G20604G6414G13792G7389G5389性，G2530G6984G10714G993G13565G13478G6122G17743G13565G13478，G6414括G6251G11397G451G7143G8939G1825G9919。亮丝花式面料计G2022G19156G2818到G8443美市场上G2447，G3252此该面料的成品G7828G8991G7643G1946要G6365照G457G17767出G8443G11443纺织G7393装化G4410参数G6363G7643G458来操作。G1593211G17767出G8443G11443纺织G7393装化G4410参数G6363G7643G20045G11458G993G11464G6521G6521G16314G11394G13944G11014G18287G2559G18339/MG/KG120G748G740值A8640G25290色G10294G5242B/G13435G305耐G8712G708变色G451G8850色G7093耐G18252G708变色G451G8850色G7093耐G11909G8747G9185G708变色G451G8850色G7093耐G5190G6717G68423耐G2834G9094G708变色G451G8850色G709G252G5334G2631G7092可G2010G16311G14471G20333G14030G7591料CG12117G11004123组织结构设计织物组织G7171G6363纺织品G7171在织机上由相G1126G3414G11464的G1016个系G13491的纱线，G6365一定的G16280G5471G1144织G13792成，也就G7171经纬线G6365一定G16280G5471G3332相G1126G8797G9026，使织物G15932面形成一定的纹路和花纹，G17837G12193组织G12228为织物组织。织物的组织结构G7171G1319G10628面料外观效G7536G7380G11464G6521形式，注意织物组织与所G11004综G7706的结合，G4625可能使G11004G7380G4581综G7706来G17810到G5079料所需要的外观效G7536，G1209方G1427工G1166穿综和上机织G17908，适合工G1006大生产。粗纺亮丝花式面料的组织结构设计参照工厂G2419G7389的G12879G1296面料的组织，G2375粗纺A84A87A88A89A90A91A92A93A94A95A96A97A78A79A98A99A844A85亮丝花式面料的组织G3282为G3282G1593213所G12046G726G324A100A100A100A100A10023A100A100A100A100A10022A100A100A100A100A10021A100A100A100A100A10020A100A100A100A100A10019A100A100A100A100A10018A100A100A100A100A10017A100A100A100A100A10016A100A100A100A100A10015A100A100A100A100A10014A100A100A100A100A10013A100A100A100A100A100A10012A100A100A100A100A10011A100A100A100A100A10010A100A100A100A100A1009A100A100A100A100A1008A100A100A100A100A1007A100A100A100A100A1006A100A100A100A100A1005A100A100A100A100A1004A100A100A100A100A1003A100A100A100A100A1002A100A100A100A100A1001A100A100A100A100A10012345678910A6412A65A66A101A102A64在投入大生产G1055G2081要G1820G6930G2317G7691G1209G11842定此面料的设计G7171G2554可行，本设计G1820G6930100M的G2317G7691试织，G5465G2317G7691成功方可投入生产。G3A69A70A71A72A73A74A75A76A77A72A78A79A80A81A82A83A845A85第二章粗纺亮丝花式面料纱线选用G19555G11540G10628代G12197G6228的G993G7041G2469G4649，纱线的G12193G12879数G993胜数，G17837也G13485设计者提供了G3822重G17885G6333，G13792G6117G1216要设计的G7171一G8466花式面料，那么就要G17885G6333适当的花式纱线来作经纬纱，根据G17837G8466面料的设计方G2533，经过反G3809的小G7691试织，G6117G1216在集中采购到的花式纱线中G17885G6333了G989G12193纱线来作为亮丝花式面料的经纬纱，G2010G2047G7171黑色圈圈纱G708125TEXG709G451黑白大肚纱294TEXG451黑色带亮丝斜羽毛纱370TEX。G2375经纱G17885G6333黑色圈圈纱G451黑白大肚纱，G13792纬纱则G11004和经纱相同圈圈纱和大肚纱，另外G7389G16280G5471G3332G2164入亮丝花线G12373出粗纺亮丝花式面料G15932G1427的亮丝效G7536。G11004G17837G989G12193纱线来G15932G10628出粗纺亮丝花式面料G7044颖时G4590的特点，同时使得面料具G7389良好的G6175G5875和透G8680性，G1209及良好的悬G3414性G451G6251G11397性G451G1825G9919性等。21黑色圈圈纱圈圈纱G708LOOPG3YARNG709G7171花式纱线的一G12193，一般由芯线G451压线G708G7389时也叫G2164固线G709G451G20292线G989部G2010组成。G3G3G3G3G3G3A103A104A105A106A106A104A107A108A109A110A111A112A113A113A114该圈圈纱的成品线上G7389G16280则的圈圈效G7536，G11464径为1MM大小的圈圈，G17837些圈圈G120905CM的距离G7389G16280则G2010G5079在成品纱线上。使G11004G17837些圈圈纱G2010G2047作为组织的经纬纱，在G1144织的时候他G1216在粗纺亮丝花式面料的G15932面形成G7138显的G1997凸G5875，G3698G2164了粗纺亮丝花式面料的立G1319G5875，同事也构成了面料的主色G16855，G2375黑色。G3粗纺亮丝花式面所G17885G11004的黑色圈圈纱的芯线和压线采G11004100腈纶做成纱线G727G20292线G7171在花捻机上起圈圈的部G2010，采G11004100G13662毛作为G2419料做成。A115A116A117A118A119A120A121A122A123A124A125A126A127A128A129A1156A130根据纺纱厂提供的数据，黑色圈圈纱线的G13662毛和腈纶比例为1G7263，那么在此G12193纱线的成G2010为G72625G13662毛/75腈纶，G17837G7691的成G2010可使面料具G7389一定的G17837让织G17908出来的面料G7389G6175G5875丰满G451G1457暖性好G451穿G11540舒适等特点。22黑白大肚纱G3G3G3G3大肚纱BIGBELLYG3YARNSG6363毛纺成品线中一根纱上一截粗一截细的纱线，G7171毛纺成品纱的外观疵点G1055一。G3G3G3G3G3G3A131A132A133A132A132A134A135A136A137A138A139A140A141A142A143G17828G11004黑白大肚纱与面料中的主要G11458的G7171G12373出了粗纺亮丝花式面料的立G1319G5875G1209及色G5437搭配，在黑色作为主色G16855的面料上添G2164上点点白色，成为亮点彰显了面料的主要风格，同时G3698G2164面料的蓬松性，G7171的G6175G5875柔软。G3大肚纱的粗截长G5242为56CM,细节长G5242G13434为810CM,横截面粗G1122G8503G5132纱3倍G1209上，采G11004黑色G2345纱作为芯线，白色纱作为包线，其成G2010为40黏胶G708黑色芯纱G709/60腈纶G708白色纱G709。G3G323黑色带亮丝斜毛纱斜毛纱的结构由芯线和G20292线组成，羽毛G6365一定方G2533排列在纱线的一侧。毛羽G20292纱，羽长G14270然竖立，G1821泽好，G6175G5875柔软。G3G3G3G3G3G3A144A145A146A147A148A149A150A151A152A147A153A154A155A156A157A158A1597A160A161A162A163A164A164A165A166A167A168A169A170A171A172A173A174A175A176A177由G1122毛羽G7389方G2533性G2010G5079，织成的织物除G1821泽柔和外，G5079面显得丰满，极具装G20292效G7536，且优G1122其它G13478毛G12879纱线的特点G7171G993G7143掉毛。其G7393G11004性能好，G1457暖性强。G3G6117G1216G17885G11004的斜毛纱的毛羽长G5242为0507CMG1055间，其成G2010为65腈纶G708黑色纱G709/35涤纶G708亮丝G709。该成G2010使织物具G7389良好的耐G11397性，G2375织物G993折G11397，尺寸稳定性好。G3698添斜毛纱主要G7171G3698添面料的亮丝效G7536，使得面料的G15932面效G7536变得丰满时G4590。G3G1889G17837块面料中，粗纺亮丝花式面料的主色G16855由黑色圈圈纱构成的黑色，黑白大肚纱时面料中花纹的G12373出部G2010，G13792面料的亮丝效G7536则由黑色带亮丝的斜毛纱G1319G10628出来。A159A178A179A180A181A182A183A184A185A186A187A188A189A190A1598A160第三章亮丝花式面料的工艺计算31粗纺亮丝花式面料的穿综方式及色纱排列根据面料G17885G11004的纱线和组织的特点G11842定穿综方式和经纬纱排列情况如下G726穿综G72618顺穿边910纱线G726黑白大肚纱G451黑色圈圈G451黑色亮丝斜毛纱经纱G726黑白大肚纱2根G451黑色圈圈纱6根纬纱G726黑色圈圈6根G451黑白大肚2根G451黑色带亮丝斜毛纱1根G451黑色圈圈2根G451黑色带亮丝斜毛纱1根G451黑色圈圈1根G451黑白大肚2根32工艺参数的计算根据G12879G1296织物的经纬密G1209及小G7691试织时经纬密，G16855G6984得出粗纺亮丝面料的G16280格如下G726G7380佳经纬密G7269579，G19388幅G7261503CM，坯G5079克重G726503G/M，成G5079克重G726500G/M经纱A191黑白大肚纱G708125TEXG709G451黑色圈圈294TEX纬纱G726黑白大肚纱G708125TEXG709G451黑色圈圈294TEXG451黑色亮丝斜毛纱370TEXG3321总经根数的计算总经根数G7171G6363织物全幅宽经纱总和，G2375G3332组织经纱数与边组织经纱数G1055和。总经根数成品幅宽成品经密根据粗纺亮丝花式面料的G19388幅和经密得出G726粗纺亮丝花式面料的总经根数1503951428包G2559边纱10220322每筘穿入数每筘穿入数G7171G6363每个筘齿穿入的经纱根数，经纱在每筘齿中的穿入数与G5079面A192A193A194A195A196A197A198A199A200A195A201A202A203A204A205A206A2079A208丰满程G5242G451经纱G7041头率等G7389密切关系，G20652经密织物受到的影响就G7368大。根据粗纺花式面料的特性，一般每筘穿入数为3/D323上机筘幅主要根据面料的G2559毛G18339和性G17148来决定的，根据经验G11464G6521得到本织物的筘幅为170CM。324筘号的计算钢筘的主要G16280格就G7171筘齿密G5242，G12228为筘号。筘号G7389公制和英制G1016G12193，公制筘号G7171G636310CM钢筘长G5242内的筘齿数G727英制筘号G7171G12092英寸钢筘长G5242内的筘齿数来G15932G12046。粗纺工厂一般采G11004公制筘号。公制筘号总经根数/上机筘幅/每G2487穿入数公制筘号1428/170/328故筘号为28，G8503好本工厂G7389G17837号筘，省G2447了筘号G16855G6984的麻烦。325劈花由G1122粗纺花式亮丝面料G7171粗毛纺面料，G1889G6984经过程中采G11004的G7171G2010G7477G6984经方法，在G2010G7477G6984经中每个G7477带G18129拥G7389G4448G6984的花G3423，并且该面料采G11004花式纱线作为经纬纱，其G15932面花纹效G7536G7171由经纬纱线G1144织和G6984G10714工艺G2530形成的，劈花G2530的花G3423效G7536并G993能在织物G15932面G4649G10628出来。综上，G1427可省G2447劈花G17837G17959工艺。326经纱中各色纱线的根数黑色大肚纱的根数G708总经根数/组织循环数G709黑色大肚纱一个组织循环中的的根数G7081428/8G7092357根G727同G10714得出黑色圈圈的根数G7081428/8G70961071根327百米G11004纱G18339的计算G11004纱G18339的计算G7171G11004G1122企G1006生产购买G2419料和G20056算产品的成本，G2164强企G1006内部的A207A209A210A211A212A213A214A215A216A217A218A219A202A220A20710A208效益管G10714，G7171G11004工商贸G7143的成本核算的重要G1457障G1055一。G13783G15397到纱线上机织G17908时候的织G13565率问G20076，要织G17908100M的粗纺亮丝花式面料，根据平时G12879G1296织物的G2530G6984G10714G13565率3。百米G11004纱G18339G708KG/100MG709百米织物经纱G11004G18339百米织物纬纱G11004G18339经纱G11004G18339G708KG/100MG709总经根数1织G13565率/纱线支数100/G7081G6984G10714G13565率G709142815/G70834286G709/8100/13204KG纬纱G11004G18339纬密G19388幅/纱线支数100/G7081G6984G10714G13565率G7097917/346816272/24100/13216KG故百米G11004纱G1833920421642KG33织造工艺单根据G1209上的工艺计算可得出粗纺亮丝花式面料的织G17908在工艺G2345如下G726A22131A222A223A224A225A226织造工艺单2011年G34G3月6G3G7097G3品名G726粗纺亮丝花式面料G3G16280格G72695根/10CM79根/10CMG3G3125294370G708G87EG91G709G31503CMG3G3G3G3G3G3G3G310毛55腈20涤15G12908G3G3G3G3G3G3G3成G5079重G18339503G/MG3坯G5079重G18339500G/MG3A227A2281428G3A229A230A23128G6G33/G39G3经G3纱G3排G3列G3纬G3纱G3排G3列G3穿G3G7849G3法G3A232A233A23410G3A229A235170G3CMG3A236A237A238A239A2402A241A242A236A243A244A244A2406A241A245A246A241G3A236A243A244A2446A241A242A241A236A237A238A2392A241A242A236A243A247A248A249A250A251A2401根G451黑色圈圈2根G451黑色带亮丝斜毛纱1根G451黑色圈圈1根G451黑白大肚2根G186115根G3A252A253A246A254A255A63A0A1A33A242A252A23G3A0A240A241A234102G3A65A2A67A379G3A69A4A71A240A32A228A48204KGG3A67A48216KGG3A7A5A6A8A9A10A11A12A13A8A14A15A18A19A16A21A1711A20纹G10268G328224A35A35A35A35A3523A35A35A35A35A3522A35A35A35A35A3521A35A35A35A35A3520A35A35A35A35A3519A35A35A35A35A3518A35A35A35A35A3517A35A35A35A35A3516A35A35A35A35A3515A35A35A35A35A3514A35A35A35A35A3513A35A35A35A35A35A3512A35A35A35A35A3511A35A35A35A35A3510A35A35A35A35A359A35A35A35A35A358A35A35A35A35A357A35A35A35A35A356A35A35A35A35A355A35A35A35A35A354A35A35A35A35A353A35A35A35A35A352A35A35A35A35A351A35A35A35A35A3512345678910G3G3G3A17A22A24A25A26A27A28A29A30A31A34A36A37A38A39A40A1712A20第四章粗纺亮丝花式面料的织造工艺在织机上，G5224G8503G11842G3332G4445排各机构的G17828G2172时间，使G6984个织机工作G2339G16855，如G7536各机构的G17828G2172时间配合G993当G4570引起机G7812故障，并使织机G7041头率和织疵G3698G2164，G17837G7691G1262使机G7812效率下G19489产品G17148G18339，G19489G1314G2419G7460料的消G13803，G3698G2164影响企G1006的经济效益。织机的G17828G2172配合和工艺参数设计G7171G20652产优G17148的重要G1457G16789，设定G8503G11842G3332工艺参数G6177G5322长设备的G4563G2641，G14731得G7368大的经济效益。G3粗纺亮丝花式面料的织G17908流程包括G726经纱G726G6984经G252G252G252G252G279穿经G252G252G252G252G279开G2487G810G279织G2487G279G2379G7366G279G17877经G279下机纬纱G726G1660纬G3132G279G5364G2159G10267G279G6518G8991G3132G279G2110纬G2004G279G6183纬G80941整经G6984经的G1231G2165G7171G4570一定数G18339的G12582G4388纱排列成一定幅宽的平行纱G10267，G6365工艺G16280定的长G5242，G1209适当G3355为的强G2159平行G2379G13481到经G17736上，经过G6984经的经纱供G8986纱和穿经G1055G11004，粗纺面料所G11004的纱线一般G993G11004经过G8986纱G17837G17959工G5219。本厂采G11004G2010G7477G6984经，G2010G7477G6984经要G1820G4570全幅织物所需的总经纱根数的一部G2010G6365照需要组成一个G7477带，然G2530G4570其G2379G13481在G6984经G9390G12582上。G2010G7477G6984经工艺设计包括G6984经G5364G2159G451G6984经G17907G5242G451G6984经G7477带G451G6984经G7477宽等内G4493。411G6984经G5364G2159G6984经G5364G2159G2474决G1122制G2172带对G9390G12582的G6717G6842制G2172程G5242，G10267纱G5364G2159G5224G3355G2260G451适G5242，G1209G1457G16789织G17736G2379装G17810到合G10714的G2379G7366密G5242。织G17736的密G5242可参G16277G1593241G1510G17736时G19555大G9390G12582G17876G13481G2334径G1955小，G6717G6842制G2172G2159G11709也G19555G1055G1955小，为此制G2172带的松G13051程G5242要做出相G5224G16855G6984，G1457G6357G10267纱G5364G2159G3355G15925一G14280。A41A42A43A44A45A46A47A49A50A44A51A52A53A54A55A56A5713A58A5941A74A60A61A62A62A64A66A68A70A72A73A75A76A77A78A68A79A72A73G/CM3A75A76A77A78A68A79A72A73G/CM3A86A80A76050055A88A81A82A75050055A89/A86A80A76050060A82A89A83A81055060A84A81A82A75040根据上G15932可G11705粗纺花式面料G6984经时经G17736的G2379G13481密G5242为040G3G/CMA85。G3G6984经的时候要求各根经纱G5364G2159相等，在经G17736G6122织G17736上G2010G5079G3355G2260，色纱排列G12538合工艺G16280定。412G6984经G17907G5242G2010G7477G6984经的G17907G5242提G20652G993如G2010G6221G6984经那么要求，粗纺纱线的G6984经G17907G5242一般为300500M/MIN，纱线强G2159G1314，G12582G4388G17148G18339G5058时G5224G17885G11004较G1314的G6984经G17907G5242。413G6984经G7477带数G6984经G7477带数N为G726NMMB/MT式中G726MG252织G17736总经根数G727MTG252每G7477经纱根数G727MBG252G1016侧边纱总根数。每G7477经纱的根数MT，根据工厂生产经验和G12582G4388G7562的G4493G18339，G2474值在120140G1055间。同时每花根数为8根，所G1209MT要G71718的G6984数倍，为了方G1427G7477带为G6984数G2375G1325头为0，G2474128。综上可得粗纺亮丝花式面料的G6984经G7477带数N142820/1281142穿经穿经G7171一G20045G2325G2010细G14280的工作，穿经中经纱的G13490头G451G9443穿G451重穿等G18129G1262G11464G6521影响织G17908生产的顺利进行，G17908成织物上的疵点。工厂采G11004的G7171G2334G14270G2172穿经方法，G2334G14270G2172穿经G7171G11004G2334G14270G2172穿经机G7812和G6175工操作配合G4448成穿经的，它G1209G14270G2172G2010经纱G451A87A90A91A92A93A94A95A96A97A98A99A100A101A102A103A104A8714A105G14270G2172G2010经G1584G10267和G11017G11925G6566筘G2172作部G2010代G7379G6175工操作，从G13792使工G1166G2183G2172强G5242得到G1955G17743，生产效率得到提G20652，每G1166每小时穿经数G17810到1500G7942000根。大G6221G18339生产时，为了提G20652穿经G17148G18339，G12544一只织G17736也采G11004G6175工穿经，G1209G2530各织G17736G6122G11004G6175工G6300G6521,G6122G11004G6183结G17842G6521,G6122G11004特G12193G12908合G2070G12908G6521。G6238织G4448的织G17736纱头与G7044织G17736上的经纱G17842G6521起来，G12228为G6521经。然G2530G6238G2419织G17736上的经G1584G10267，综和筘G12239到G7044织G17736上，G1209G4448成穿经工作。粗纺亮丝花式面料的纱线在穿经的时候G993G5529G6297G5527G7041纱的G2373G19517，G17837G7171粗纺纱线的支数和强G2159决定的，G1306G7171在穿经的时候要注意大肚纱的捻G5242G993能G15999G11784G3363，G17837就要求穿经工G1166在过程中要G17743，G18003G1825G6631捻纱线等。43上机织造G6117厂生产中所G11004到的织机G7171G42G36747G3423G2085G7450织机开G2487G17828G2172G11464G6521参与织物形成的主要G17828G2172G1055一，也G7171影响织G17908生产的重要G3252G13044G1055一，特G2047G7171在开G2487G17828G2172中，每根经纱G18129G3822次受到G6301G1292G451G6717G6842和G5379G7366的机G7812作G11004，在每一G2345位长G5242纱G8585上作G11004的次数可G17810G1972百G10990G1972G2327次G1055G3822，经纱G5468G4493G7143G11142G2183G451G15932面受G6451G10990G14279G7041G16022。引纬G7171织机的主要G17828G2172G1055一。G2085G7450织机引纬方法G7171G11004G5460G3809G12239G2172的G2085G10378G7450G2461入G6122G3853G6357纬纱，G4570机G3132外侧固定G12582G4388上的纬纱引入G7809G2487，G2085G7450的G5460G3809引纬G2172作G5468G1699G1319G13958中的G1999G2085G17828G2172，G2085G7450织机G3252此G13792得名。G2085G7450引纬G1209G2085头G3853G6357纬纱，纬纱G4448全G3800G1122受G6523G10378G5589，G4658G1122G12227极引纬方式。根据粗纺花式面料的纱线特性，在此G6117G1216要G17885G6333G989个G1660纬G3132公同G17828作。在织G17908过程中，为了生产G17842G13505进行，G5529G20047G4570织物及时引离织G2487G2379G13481到G2379G5079G17758上。在织G17908过程中，G19555织物的G993G7041形成，G2379G7366机构G4570织物引离织G2487，织G17736G5224G993G7041G17877出相G5224长G5242的经纱，并G1457G6357一定的经纱G5364G2159。G2379G2474机构的作G11004G7171G4570在织G2487G3800G2033G8505形成的织物引离织G2487，G2379G13481到G2379G5079G17758上，同时与织机上其他机构相配合，G11842定织物的纬纱排列密G5242和纬纱在织物内的排列特征。G2379G2474机构形式G5468G3822，可G1209G5414G13447为消极式G2379G2474机构和G12227极式G2379G2474机构G1016大G12879。本厂采G11004的G7171G12227极式G2379G2474机构。经过G2010G7524得到上机工艺G15932如下G726A106A107A108A109A110A111A112A113A114A109A115A116A117A118A119A120A12115A122A123A124A125A126A127A128A123G2530G7765G20652G1314G3开G2487时间G3进G7809G2487时间G3G2110纬时间G3上机G5364G2159G37CMG3285G101G375G101G380G101G310G78GG3坯G5079下机G8991得的幅宽为1615CM，G2317长为103M。由此得出粗纺银丝花式面料的坯G5079织G13565率为G7081625/170100955G709G237545。同时G8991得的坯G5079克重为505G/MA106A107A108A109A110A111A112A113A114A109A115A116A117A118A119A120A12116A122A12922A122第五章粗纺亮丝花式面料的后整理根据织物的G15932面效G7536决定织物所要经过的工G5219，G2530G6984G10714的每G17959工G5219的时间G9213G5242还G7389G6984G10714的顺G5219G18129G7389G11464G6521影响了织物的G15932面效G7536，所G1209要G17810到G20056G7411所要的G15932面效G7536就要G1017格G6238握好各到工G5219。粗纺亮丝花式面料的G2530G6984G10714工艺包括G72