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Module5ATripAlongtheThreeGorges
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TheThreeGorgesDam
THETHREEGORGESDAM
MonumentalworksofcivilengineeringundertakenbyChineseemperors,oftenatthecostoftensofthousandsoflives,arestrewnacrossChina’slandscapeandhistoryalike.TheQinorganizedtheGreatWaIlandtheMingre-routeditandcladthousandsofkilometreswithstone,theSuibuiltthegreatcanalnetworkoftheImperialHighway,andvariousemperorsconstructedlabyrinthinepalacesandvastmausoleums,principaltouristattractionstoday.
China’smodernleadershavenotbeenslowtoconceivesuper-projectsoftheirown,althoughcementhasreplacedstone,andtherawmusclepowerofThesurpIusagriculturallaborersknownasthe‘armyofsticks’hasbeenpartlysupplementedbymachines.ThegreatestoftheseprojectsisundoubtedlythenewSanXia(ThreeGorges)Dam,a17--year,US$70billionoperationinvolvingthetransporta1ionofmorethantenbillioncubicmetres(350billioncubicfeet)ofrockandearthandthedisplacementofover1millionpeoplefromthe60,000hectaresofIandwhichwillgraduallybefloodedbytheresulting640-kilometre(397-mile)longreservoir.
ThedamislocatednearthemouthofthelowestoftheThreeGorges,wherethecurrentwasdividedintwobyanisland.InNovemberl997,thefirststagewascompletedwiththeblockingoftwo-thirdsoftheriver’swidth.Thewaterleaveshadrisenl8metres(59feet)bytheendofl998,willriseafurther52metres(171feet)by2003,30metres(98feet)moreupto2009,andafinaltenmetres(33feet)thatyear,whenthedamwillcomeintooperation.Smallershipswilluseasinglestageliftandlargeronesastairoffivelocks.ThewatersintheThreeGorgeswillriseatotalofll0metres(36lfeet),gradua1lychangingthesceneryforever.
Thechiefjustificationsofferedforsomuchdislocationanddestructionistwofold:theproductionofl8,200megawattsofelectricity,andtheendingoffrequentlydisastrousfloodingofcitiesandfarmlandalongtheYangtze.ForcenturiesChina’srivershavebeenasourcebothofimmensefertilityandmassivedestruction.Silt--Iaden,theycanchangecourseabruptly,andneedeverhigherleveestoTestrainthem.Inheavyrainstheyburstthrough,oftenwithgreatlossoflife.InrestrainingtherivertheCommunistsareagaintryingtotaketheirplaceinhistory--figuresthatwereevenpartiallysuccessfulinfloodcontrolfortheemperorsaresoreveredastohavejoinedtheDaoist(Taoist)pantheon.
THEIMPACTOFTHEDAM
Thefinaleffectofthedamonrivercontro1isdisputed.Formorethan600kilometres(372miles)upstreamtheYangtzewillbecomemorelakethanriver,butmanyexpertsarguethataslowerflowratewillleadtoanevenmorerapidbuild-upofsilt,especiallyagainstthedamitself,causingfloodstoflowoverthetopofit.Somesaymoreeffectivefloodcontrolwouldbeprovidedbyreplacingthemorethan800lakes,vitalforstoringanddispersingfloodwaters,whichhavedisappearedbeneathuncheckedurbanexpansion.Despiteimpressiveforecastsforelectricitygeneration,somearguethataseriesofsmallerdamswouldhavebeenmorecost--effective,lessdangerousandmoreproductive.
Thedamisonlypartofalargerprojecttoalleviatepovertyinruralareas,whichuntilnowhavereliedalmostsolelyontheriverfortransport.Localgovernmentshavebeenworkingtoattractfreshinvestmenttosoakupsurplusagriculturallabor,andnewroadsandrailwaylinesarebeingbuilt,withnewbridgesacrossthegorgesofYangtzetributaries.
Compensationof40billionYuan(aboutUS$billion)hasbeenallocatedforthoseforcedtomove--asmuchas3000Yuanperheadinsomesmalltownswhereaverageannualincomesareaslittleas1500Yuan(US$l80).NeverthelessthemassforcedRelocationhasattractedwidespreadcriticism.Relocationprojectsarerunningwellbehindschedule,andChinesesociologistshavecriticizedpoorplanning,falsifiedfigures,corruptionandinadequateresources.
THEFUTUREOFYANGTZECRUISES
Alreadytheexperienceofpassingthroughthegorgesischanging.Gradual1y,thenarrowribbonsofpathswilldisappear,andmanytemplesandpagodasarereappearingonhigherground,someescapingfromtactlessdevelopmentaroundthem.Insomewaysthescenerywillactuallyimprove--severaldark,Satanicconcretefactoriesandmillswi1ldisappearbelowthewatersaswi1lbrutallyuglyaccommodationblocks,theirnewmoderncounterpartsonhighergroundunlikelytowinarchitecturalawards,butstillvisuallyfarmoreappealing.Thecolossaldamitselfandthefive-stagerideupordownitwillbeamongtheRiver’smainattractions,andscheduleswillbecomemoreconvenientasthedeepeningwatersmakenightnavigationpossibleonformerlydangerousreaches.MosttravellersoftenfeeltheThreeGorgestriptobetheperfectbreakfromtheclamourofChina,andacruiseontheYangtzeislikelytoremainoneofthemostpleasantmemoriesofmanyChinatripstocome.
TheenergeticvisitormayclimbtothesummitofWushan(WitchesHill),atwo-hourhike.Worshippersstillcometoasmallshrinehere,builtwithintheruinsofanoldBuddhistmonastery.FromthesummittheviewsofWuGorgeandtheriverarespectacular.AlessstrenuousoutingmaybemadetothenewlyopenedlimestonecavecomplexinWuGorgehighupontheclifffaceabovethenorthbankoftheriver.ThisinvolvesashortboatridefromWushan
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