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Lookingforajobafteruniversity?First,getoffthesofaMorethan650,000studentsleftuniversitythissummerandmanyhavenoideaaboutthewaytogetajob.Howtoughshouldaparentbetogalvanizetheminthesefinanciallyfraughttimes?1InJuly,youlookedonasyourhandsome21-year-oldson,dressedingownandmortarboard,proudlyclutchedhishonorsdegreeforhisgraduationphoto.Thosememoriesofforkingoutthousandsofpoundsayearsothathecouldeatwellandgototheoddpartybegantofade.Untilnow.2Asthesummerbreakcomestoacloseandstudentsacrossthecountryprepareforthestartofanewterm,youfindthatyourgraduatesonisstillspendinghisdaysslumped掉落infrontoftheevision,brokenonlybytexting,andvisitstothepub.ThisformerscionofGenerationYhasmorphed改变overnightintoamemberofGeneratingGruntWillheevergetaThisisthescenariofacingthousandsoffamilies.than650,000studentsleftuniversitythissummerandmostinthesefinanciallytestingtimeshavenoideawhattodonext.Parentsrevertto回复nagging;sonsanddaughters rebelswithoutacause,awarethattheyneedtogetajob,butnotsureJackGoodwin,fromMiddle,graduatedwitha2:1inpoliticsfromNottinghamthissummer.Hewalkedintotheuniversitycareersserviceandstraightbackoutagain;therewasabigqueue.Helivedwithfiveotherboysallofwhomdidthesame.Therewasnopressuretofindajob,eventhoughmostofthegirlsheknewhadaclearern.“Iappliedforajobasapoliticalresearcher,butgotturneddown,”hesays.“theywerepaying£18,000,doesn’tbuyyoumuchmorethanatinofbeansafterrent,buttheywantedpeoplewithexperienceormaster’sdegrees.ThenIappliedfortheCivilServicefaststream.Ipassedtheexam,butattheinterviewstheyaccusedmeofbeing‘toodetached”andtalkinginlanguagethatwas‘tootechnocratic’,whichIdidn’tthinkpossible,butobviouslyitis.”Sincethenhehasspentthesummer“hiding”.HecanrecountseveralepisodesofTrafficCopsandhasseenmoredaytimeevisionthanishealthy.Hetalkstohisfriendsabouthisaimlessdaysandfindsthatmostareinthesameboat.Onehasbeendouttostackshelvesbyhisparents.Fortherestitis9-to-5“chilling”beforeheadingtothepub.Sohowaboutworkingbehindthebar,topayforthosedrinks?“Idon’twanttodowork.IwenttoacomprehensiveandIworkedmybacksideofftogotoagooduniversity,whereIworkedreallyhardtogetagooddegree,”hesays.“NowI’mbackatthesamestageasthosefriendswhodidn’tgotouniatall,whoarepullingpintsandngdead-endjobs.IfeelthatI’vecomefullcircle.”JacquelingGoodwin,hismother,defendshim.Sheinsiststhathehastriedtogetajob,buthavingworkedfull-timesinceleavingschoolherself,sheandherhusbandfindittrickytoadvisehimonhowtoproceed.“Ihavealwayshadtowork,”shesays.“It’sdifficultbecausewhenyouhaveadegree,itopensnewdoorsforyou,oryou’dliketothinkthatitdoes.”Althoughsheistakingasoftlinewithhersonatthemoment,sheisclearthatafteran ingthree-weektriptosouthAmerica,hisholidayfromworkwillhavetoend.Hemayevenhavetopayrentandcontributetothehouseholdbills.“They’vegottogrowupatsomepoint.We’vefinishedpayingforuniversity,soalittlebitofhelpbackisgood,”shesays.“TheSouthAmericatripisthecutoffpoint.Whenhecomesbackthere’llbeChristmasworkifnothingelse.”GaelLindenfield,apsychotheandtheauthoroftheEmotionalHealingStrategy,saysthattheGoodwinparentsstruckexactlytherightnote.Thetransitionfromuniversitytoajobistoughforparentsandchildren:Cruciallytheymustbalancebeingpositiveandunderstandingwithnotmakinglifetoocomfortablefortheiroffspring.“themainjobfortheparentsistobetherebecauseifstartadvisingthemwhattodo,thatiswhenthestarts.Ifyouhavecontacts,byallmeansusethose,”shesaid.“Butalotofparentsgettoosoft.Putlimitsonhowmuchmoneyyougivethem,askthemtopayrentorcontributetothecareofthehouseorthepets.Carryonlifeasnormalanddon’tallowthemtoabuseyourbankaccountorsapyourreservesofemotionalenergy.”payingforcareerconsultations,trainfarestointerviewsorbooksaregoodthings;beingtoopushyisnot.Butwhileparentsshouldbewaryof ingtoosoft,Lindenfieldadvisesthemtotreadsympatheticallyafterajobsetbackforafewdaysorevenweeks–dependingonthescaleoftheknockAfterthatthesonordaughterneedstobenudgedfirmlybackintothesaddle.13boysaremorelikelytogetstuckathomeLingenfieldbelievesthatmenareoftenbetteratheltheirsons,nephews,orfriends’sonsthanaremothersandsisters.Menhaveadifferentwayofhandlingsetbacksthanwomen,shesays,sotheyneedthepresencetotalkitasforbarwork,sheisapassionateadvocate:it’sagreatantidotetograduateapathy.Itjustdependsonhowyouapproachit.Lindenfield,whofoundherfirstjobasanaerialphotographicassistantthroughbarwork,saysitisagreatnetworkingopportunityandcertainlymorelikelytogetyouajobthanlounginginfrontoftheTV.“Thesamegoesforshelf-stacking.Youwillbespottedifyou’regoodatit.Ifyou’rebrightandcheerfulandarepolitetothecustomers,you’llsoongetmovedon.Sothinkofitasanopportunity;peoplewhoaresuccessfulinthelongrunhaveoftengotshelf-stackingstories,”shesays.yoursonordaughtermaynotwanttofollowHollywoodstarssuchasWhoopiGoldbergintoapplyingmake-uptocorpsesinamortuary,orguardingnuclearpowerntslikeBruceWills,butevenBradPitthadtostandoutsideElPolloLocorestaurantchaininagiantchickensuitatonetimeinhislife.Noneofthemappearsthepoorerfortheseexperiences.unit1大学毕业找工作的第一要义:别躺在沙发上做65知道怎么找工作在金融的背景下做父母的该如何激励他们?七月,你看着英俊的21岁的儿子穿上学士袍,戴上四方帽, ,拍毕业照。这时,中每年支付几千英镑,好让儿子吃好、并能偶尔参加聚会的开始消退。但等到暑假快要结束各地的学生正在为新学期做准备的时尔发发浏览社交或者去酒吧喝酒这位属“千禧一代的年青人之间变成“抱怨一代的成员他能找到工作吗?这就是成千上万家庭所的状况今年夏天65万多大学生毕业在金融的背景下他们中的大多数人不知道自己下一步该做什么。父母只会唠叨,而儿女们则毫无缘由地变成了叛逆者。他们知道自己该找份工作,但却不知道如何去找。来自郡的今年夏天从诺丁汉大学政 另外5个男孩子也都跟他一样,进去又出来了。找工作的压力不大,虽然他所认识的大多数都有更明确的计划。他说“我申请政治学研究工作,但被了。他们给的年是1万8千镑,交完房租后所剩无几,也就够买一罐豆子,可他们还要有研究经历或的人然后我又申请参加快速晋升人才培养计划过了在面太像专家政治论我觉得自己不可能那样,但我显然就是那样《交通中的若干片段他白天看电视的时间太长已经到境和自己一样其中一位朋友在父母的迫下去超市上货其·他的母亲替他辩护。她坚持认为儿子已经尽力了。因为她自己中学毕业后一直都在工作,所以她和丈夫发不得不在的年青人很难做到这一点为如果你有了·就会为你提供新的机会,至少你自己会这南美度三星期的假之后,他的休假就该结束了。他可能还得付房租,并分担家庭开支。心理治疗师盖尔“父母的主要任务就是支持孩子,如果他们教导孩子该如何做,那么就会引起如果有熟人一定要找他们想办法她说“但用的银行账户或者榨们的情感能量”为孩子支付职业咨询费、面试交通费及书费是好事,但不能催男孩更容易窝在家里林登费尔德相信比母亲和姐妹更容易帮助儿子侄子或朋友的儿子她说由于和女人处理挫折的方式不同,所以男孩需要跟谈话才能度过难关。林登费尔德强烈支持去酒吧打工:那是克服毕业冷漠症的一剂林登费尔德找到了第一份当航拍助手的工作她说在酒吧工作是她说“在超市上货也一样如果干得好你就会发现的那些最终成功的很多都有在超市上货的经历”·当但即便是布拉德也曾经不得不穿上宽大的小鸡模样的服装站在快餐连锁店Elollooco的门口招揽生意。他们中没有一个人因为这些经历而变得更加穷困。·Unit2Danger!BooksmaychangeyourLikeLewisCarroll'sAlice,whofallsintoarabbitholeanddiscoversamysteriouswonderland,whenwepickupabookweareabouttoenteranewworld.We eobserversoflifefromthepointofviewofaolderthanourselves,orthroughtheeyesofachild.Wemaytravelaroundtheglobetocountriesorcultureswewouldneverdreamofvisitinginreallife.We'llhaveexperienceswhicharenew,sometimesdisconcerting,maybedeeplyattractive,possiblyunpleasantorpainful,butneverlessthanliberatingfromtherealworldwecomefrom.TheEnglishpoetWilliamCowper(1731–1800)said"Variety'stheveryspiceoflife,/Thatgivesitallitsflavour"althoughheneglectedtosaywhereorhowwecouldfindit.Butweknowhewasright.Weknowweliveinaworldofvarietyanddifference.Weknowthatpeoplelivevariousdifferentlives,spendtheirtimeinvariousdifferentways,havedifferentjobs,believeindifferentthings,havedifferentopinions,differentcustoms,andspeakdifferentlanguages.Normally,wedon'tknowtheextentofthesedifferences,yetsometimeswhensomethingunusualhappenstomakeusnotice,varietyanddifferenceappearmoreasathreatthananopportunity.Readingbooksallowsustoenjoyandcelebratethisvarietyanddifferenceinsafety,andprovidesuswithanopportunitytogrow.To ctwithotherpeople'slivesinthepeaceandquietofourhomesisaprivilegewhichonlyreadingfictioncanaffordus.Weevenunderstand,howeverfleetingly,thatwehavemoreincommonwithotherreadersofbooksinotherculturesthanwemightdowiththefirst wemeetwhenwestepoutofourfrontdoors.WelearntolookbeyondourimmediatesurroundingstothehorizonandalandscapefarawayfromIfweeverquestionthetruthofthepowerofreadingbooks,weshouldtakethetroubletogotoourlocallibraryorbookshop,oreven,ifwe'refortunateenough,tothebooksonourshelvesathome.Weshouldwonderatthestrikingvistascreatedbythetitlesofnovelsrangingfromtheclassicstothemostrecent:TheGrapesofWrathbyJohnSteinbeck, HandbyJohnIrving,CancerWardbyAleksandrSolzhenitsyn,ForWhomtheBellTollsbyErnestHemingway,OurManinHavanabyGrahamGreene,TheTimeTraveller'sWifebyAudreyNiffeneggerorSalmonFishingintheYemenbyPaulTorday.Thenweshouldreflectontheotherliveswe'llmeetoncewebegintoread.Everybookwillhaveitsownlanguageanddialect,itsownvocabularyandgr r.Wemaynotalwaysunderstandeverywordorsentence,butwhetherwe'reenchantedorwhetherwefeelexcluded,ouremotionsareneverthelessstimulated.Otherpeopleandotherculturesarenotalwaysdistantbecauseofgeography.Inabookwemayconfrontpeoplewholiveinadifferentclimate,havedifferentreligiousbeliefs,orcomefromadifferentethnicgroup.Evenourneighboursdowntheroadmaybestrangerswhowecanonlymeetthroughbooks.Assoonasweareabletolisten,booksaresupremelyinfluentialinthewaywelive.Fromthebedtimestoryreadbyaparenttotheirchildallthewaythroughtothesittingroomlinedwithbooksinouradulthomes,booksdefineourlives.TheEnglishwriterE.M.Forster(1879–1970)evenhintedatamoremysticalpowerwhichbookspossessoverus.Hewrote,"Isuggestthattheonlybooksthatinfluenceusarethoseforwhichweareready,andwhichhavegonealittlefurtherdownourparticularpaththanwehavegoneourselves."It'sasiftherightbookcomestoseekusoutattherightmoment,andoffersitselftous—it'snotuswhoseekoutthebook.ThomasMerton(1915–1968),theAmericanmonk,priestandwriter,wasonceaskedaseriesofsevenquestionsbyajournalist:Namethelastthreebooksyouhaveread,thethreebooksyouarereadingnow,thebooksyouintendtoread,thebooksthathaveinfluencedyou,andwhy,abookthateveryoneshouldread,andwhy.Forthebookswhichhadinfluencedhim,hecitedpoeticworksofWilliamBlake,variousysbyancientGreekthinkersandwriters,andanumberofreligiouswritings.Whenaskedwhytheyhadinfluencedhim,hereplied,"Thesebooksandotherslikethemhavehelpedmetodiscovertherealmeaningofmylife,andhavemadeitpossibleformetogetoutoftheconfusionandmeaninglessnessofanexistencecompleyimmersedintheneedsandpassivitiesfosteredbyacultureinwhichsalesareeverything."SohowwouldyouanswertheIn1947,CliftonFadimancoinedthetermhome-runbook.Whenabaseballyerhitsahomerun,hehitstheballsohardandsofarhe'sabletorunroundthefourbasesofthediamond,andscorepointsnotonlyforhimselfbutfortheotherrunnersalreadyonabase.It'sthemostenjoyableandsatisfyingeventinabaseballgame.Likewise,ahome-runbookdescribesnotthechild'sfirstreadingexperience,butthefirsttimetheyreadabookwhichinducessuchpleasureandsatisfactionthattheycan'tputitdown.Forhundredsofmillionsofchildrenaroundtheworld,thebestknownexampleofahome-runbookwillbetheHarryAsadults,we'realwayslookingforourownhome-runbooks,notjustforthefirsttime,buttimeaftertimeagain.Whoeverhasreadanovelinonesittingwillalwaysrememberthepleasureandsatisfactionwhichawaitus,andeagerly,insistently,sometimesevendesperayseekstoreproducethemarvelloussensationagain.Wecannotwithstandthehungertovisitanotherworld,tomeetdifferentpeople,toliveotherlivesandtoreflectonourselves.Danger!Booksmaychangeyourlife.Suchisthepowerofunit2!书可能会改变你的人·1不掉进了兔子洞里但她在那过要的国家和文化我们可以体验未曾经历过的事情这些事情·的,但无论如何都至少能把我们从现实世界中解放出英国诗人威廉·柯珀(17311800)化但我们知道他说得对我们知道我们一个充满变化与,毋宁说是。才享有的我们甚至感觉到——哪怕只是在一瞬间——我们和异文化读者的共同点或许要多于我们和家门口随便碰到的一个趟当地的馆或书店或者如果我们足够幸运的话可以读一读家里书架上的书。克《的葡萄约翰欧文《第四只手》索尔仁尼琴《癌欧内斯特海明威的《丧钟为谁而鸣格雷厄姆··尼芬格的《时间旅行者的妻子《到也门钓鲑鱼一旦开始阅读我们就应该思考一下我们在书中读到的别样人生。每一本书都有自己的语言、方言、能理解其中的每一个字、每一句话,但不管我们是痴迷其中,还是见不同气候有不同信仰来自不同民族的人即便是住中摆满书柜的客厅,书界定了我们的人生。英国作家.M.(1879–1970书在我们已经选定的道走得比我们更远一些”合适的书好像自·7修士牧师及作家(1915–1968曾经被一连串地问了7个问题说出你最近读完的3本书你正在读的3书你打算要读的书对你有影响的书并解释一下理由一本你觉得每人都要读的书并解释一下理由关于对他有影响的书他列出了 的诗集古希腊思想家和作家写的各种戏剧以及一些·作品。当被问及这些书为何会影响他时,他回答这些—还有其他类似的书籍——帮助我找到了人生的文化培育了人们无止境的需求和消极生活充满了困惑和空虚那么,你又会如何回答这些问1947年顿法迪曼发明“全垒打书籍这个词当一波特》系列故事。作为成年人,我们寻找自己的“全垒打书籍,不仅是第一想经历别样的人生并自我反省,我们无法遏制这样的渴求。 !书可能会改变你的人生。这就是读书的力量Unit FiftyyearsofNohistoryoffashionintheyears1960to2010canoverlookorunderestimatetwoconstantfactors:theubiquitousnsandtheriseandfallofhemlinesforwomen'sskirtsanddresses.Denim,thematerialwhichnsaremadeof,wasknowninFranceinthelate16thcentury,butitwasLeviStrausswhosawthatminersintheCaliforniangoldrushinthemid-19thcenturyneededstrongtrousers,whichhereindwithmetalrivets.BluedenimnsremainedpopularintheUSasworkclothesuntilthe1950s,butthenbecameassociatedwithyouth,newideas,rebellionandindividuality.WhenLeviStrauss&CobegantoexportbluenstoEuropeandAsiainthelate1950s,theywereboughtandwornwithhugeenthusiasmbyyoungpeopleandrecognizedasasymboloftheyoung,informalAmericanwayoflife.Hemlineshaveamorepeculiarsignificanceduringthisperiod.Ithasoftenbeennotedthatthereisaprecisecorrelation,withonlyafewexceptions,betweenthelengthofwomen'sskirtsandtheeconomy.Asthestockmarketrises,sodohemlines,andwhenitfalls,sodothey.Exactlywhywomenshouldwanttoexposemoreorlessoftheirlegsduringperiodsofeconomicboomandbustremainsamystery.Butthegeneraltrendisinescapable.Whenevertheeconomicoutlookisunsettled,bothmenandwomentendtowearmoreconservativeclothes.Perhapsthemostimportantdevelopmentinfashioninthe1960swastheminiskirt,inventedbytheBritishdesignerMaryQuant.BecauseQuantworkedintheheartofSwingingLondon,theminiskirtdevelopedintoamajorinternationalfashion.ItwasgivengreaterrespectabilitywhenthegreatFrenchdesigner,Courrèges,developeditintoanitemofhighfashion.Butitwouldnothaveachievedsuchinternationalcurrencywithoutthedevelopmentoftights,insteadofstockings,becausetheriseinhemlinesmeantthestockingtopswouldbevisible.Thehippiemovementofthemid-1960sandearly1970sinfluencedthedesignofns,withthetrouserlegdeveloaflared"bell-bottom"style.Bythemid-1970s,astheeconomydeteriorated,hemlinesdroppedtomidi(mid-calflength)andmaxi(anklelength),whilenswerenolongerexclusivelyblue.nsremainedfashionableduringtheperiodofpunk,usuallywornripped,oftenwithchainsandstuddedbelts.Thelooklastedforseveralyears,althoughbecamemoreandmorerestrictedtosmallgroupsofinner-cityyoungpeople,andhadlittleinfluenceonotheragegroups.Asabacklashtotheanarchyofpunk,theNewRomanticswasafashionmovementwhichoccurredmainlyinBritishnightclubs.Itwasglamorousandcourageous,andfeaturedlavishfrilledshirts. nswere ynotacceptable.Themid-1980ssawtheriseofanumberofdifferentstyles.Powerdressingwascharacterizedbysmartsuitsand,forthenewly-empoweredwomen,shoulderpadsandknee-lengthskirts.Notsurprisingly,theeconomywasunstable,andpeopletooklessrisksinwhattheywore.Formen,theMiamiVicestyle,namedafterthe evisionseries,madeuseofsmartT-shirtsunderdesignerjackets,anddesignerstubble—threeorfourdaysofbeardgrowth.Butasalways,denimremainedpopularwiththeyoung.Inparticular,heavymetalmusicfansworebleachedandrippednsanddenimjackets.Graduallyhemlinesstartedtoriseagain...untiltheworldstockmarketcrashin1987.Sothelate1980sintheUSsawtheriseofthemoreconservativestylecalledPreppystyle,withclassicclothesbyRalphLaurenandBrooksBrothersformen,button-downshirts,chinosandloafers,withasweatertiedlooselyaroundtheneck.Theyalsoworens,buteitherbrand-neworcleanandsmartlypressed—notatallwhatLeviStraussoriginallyintended.Astheworldeconomiesimprovedagaininthe1990s,fashionforyoungpeoplebecamemoredaring.BootsandConverseorNiketrainersremainedpopular,butthepredominantcoloursbecameolivegreenandoatmeal.Hairwaswornlong,orcutyshortanddyedblue,greenorred.Hoodies,baseballcapsandbaggyns,whichwereoftenwornlowbelowthebuttocks,werecommononthestreets.TheninJanuary2000theNewYorktechnologystockmarketcollapsed.Asusual,sodidhemlines,whichweredescribedbyonecommentatoras"theprimandproperlookisin.Skirtsshouldbebelowtheknee."Butmerelyoneyearlater,thestockmarketbegantorecover,andthemicrominiskirtreturned.Hemlineswerehigherthantheyhadbeenformanyyears.Duringthisperiod,itwasunusualtowearformalclothesunlessyouwereatwork.Designernsgainedhugepopularity.Theseweremadeofthetraditionaldenim,perhapswithsomelycraadded,butcutandmarketedunderwell-knownbrandssuchasArmani,HugoBossandMoschino,whountilrecentlyhadonlyconcernedthemselveswiththesmartestfashionlines.SkinnynsalsobecamepopularinBritainandmostofEurope.Skirtlengthisuncertain,rangingfrommicroto"sensible"—knee-lengthorjustbelow.Sometimesthehemlineindicator,asit'scalled,canevenprecedeandpredictachangeinthemoodofthestockmarketlongbeforeitactuallyhappens.InSeptember2007,attheNewYorkfashionshows,whichweredisyingtheirstylesforspring2008,thetrendwasformuchlongerdressesandskirts,manytomid-calforevendowntotheankles.Somepeoplefeltthisshowedthatthehemlineindicatorwasnolongerreliable,andthatdesignersnolongerdictatedwhatpeoplewouldwear.DuringtheLondonandNewYorkfashionshowsinSeptember2008,hemlinestodrop.Butsureenough,inthefallof2008,thestockmarketindexesfelldramaticallywhenthebankingcrisishittheUS,Europeandthentherestoftheworld.Hemlineswerenolongerfollowingthestockmarket—theywereshowingthewayandindicatingfutureeconomicDuringthewholeperiod,fashionstyleshaverangedwidely,andhaveusuallybeensparkedoffbyadesiretoidentifypeopleasbelongingtoaparticularsub-culture.Buttheconstantfactorsoverthisperiodaredenimandhemlinesandthegreatestinfluenceshavebeena19th-centuryCalifornianclothesmanufacturerandayoungdesignerintheSwingingLondonofthe1960s.时装潮流501960至2010的时装史存在两个不可忽略或不可低估的不牛仔裤是用粗斜纹布做的,早在16世纪末法国就有了这种布料。19世纪中叶,•发现在加州淘金的矿工很需要用这种耐用布料做成的牛仔裤,他还用铆钉来加固裤子。后一直到20世纪50年代,蓝色粗斜纹布做的牛仔裤一直只是流行的工装,但是后来牛仔裤变成了青春、新思想、及个性的标志。50年其为年轻人随意生活方式的象征。裙摆在这一时期有着特殊的意义。们时常会注意到,女人的裙摆和经济之间存在一种颇为精确的关联性,且鲜有例外。升时裙摆也跟着提高;跌时裙摆就跟着降低。在经济繁荣和时期女性到底为什么要多或少双腿至今仍然是个谜。但总的趋势必定是这样的:每当经济前景不时,和女人都倾向20世纪60年代时装史上一个最重要的发展或许就是英国时装设计师•发明的超短裙。由于在“摇摆伦敦”的中心地带工作,超短裙很快就风行全球。国杰出的时装设计师库雷热把超短裙变成一件高级时装时,超短裙得到了人们的认可。但0年代中、0年代初的嬉皮士运动影响了牛仔裤的设计,牛仔裤的裤腿发展成了扩张的“喇叭形。到了0年代中期,随着经济的,裙摆降低到了小腿中部甚至脚踝部,而牛仔裤则不再是清的蓝色了。牛仔裤在朋克时期依然很时髦,裤腿通常有的口子,并配有铁链及打着装饰钉的皮带。种样式的牛仔裤流行了几年,但流行的范围越来越小,仅限于内城区的少数年轻人群体,对其他要时装潮流。这种时装大胆创新、十足:衬衫装饰有很多褶边,而牛仔裤是绝对不被认可的。0年代中期兴起了几种风格各异的服装。“装以雅致的套装为特色,带肩垫的上衣配及膝短裙,受到新近得势的的欢迎。此时的经济不太稳定,难怪人们不想在穿着上太。男士流行以电视剧《迈阿密风云》命名的迈阿密风云式样的时装,名牌短外套配时髦的T恤,蓄着有型的短胡须——长三四天的样子。和往常一样,粗斜纹布仍然受到年轻人的欢迎。其是重金属音乐在1987年全球之前,裙摆也开始逐渐地提高。在80年代末兴起了一种较为保守的风格,称为“学院风”。男士穿拉•和兄弟品牌的经典服装,衣领带纽扣的衬衫、斜纹棉布裤和平底便鞋,脖子上随意搭着一件毛衣。们也穿牛仔裤,但是新的,或者是干净、熨平的牛仔裤,完全不是•90年代,随着世界经济的再次复苏,年轻人的时装也变得更加大胆起、匡威和耐克运动鞋都很流行,但是流行色变成了橄榄绿和米灰的头发要么留得很长,要么是染成蓝色、绿色或红色的刺猬头。帽衫、棒球帽及的低腰牛仔裤在街上随处00年1月,纽约的科技。和往常一样,裙摆也相应地降低了,正如一位评论家所说的,“开始流行了。裙摆应该长及过膝。”但仅仅过了一年,开始苏,超短迷你裙又回来了,裙摆比多年以来的高度都要高一些。这段时期,除非在工作时,人们通常不穿正式的服装。卡,但是由著名服装品牌,如阿玛尼、•及奇诺设计、销售。这些品牌公司以前都只做最优雅的时装。身牛仔裤在英国及欧洲大部分地区很流子的长短不一,既有超短裙,也有时候,所谓的裙摆标志甚至能够预示的行情。2007年9月的纽约时装展展示了2008年春季流行式样,潮流转向了长衣、长裙,裙摆长及小腿中部,甚至到了脚踝。有人觉得这表明裙摆标志靠不住了,服装设计师已经丧失了对时装的主宰权。2008年9月,在伦敦和纽约时装展中,裙摆的高度继续降低。果然,2008 欧美,并波及全球,股指急剧下跌。这时,裙摆不再地追随的变化,而是预示行情及未来的经济趋势。希望归属于某种亚文化的愿是,这个时期的不变因素是粗斜纹布和裙摆。最大的当属19世纪加利福尼亚州的一个服装制造商以及20世纪60年代工作在“摇摆伦敦”的一位年轻的时装设计Unit4Thecreditcard Ihaveaconfession.Severalyearsago,Iwasstandinginaqueuetocollectsometheatreticketsformyfamily,andmyfriendwasngthesameforhers.Igotmine,andpaidforthembycreditcard,feelingcontentedbytheconvenienceofthiscash-transaction.Itwasthenherturntopay.Thewholeoperationpassedassmoothlyasmine,butmydelightsoonturnedtoabjectshame.Mycreditcardwasafairlypathetic,status-darkblue,whereasherswasaveryexclusivegoldone. Howdidshedothis?Howcouldthisbe?IknewIearnedmorethanher,mycarwasnewer,andmyhousewassmarter.Howdidshegettoappearmoreflashthanme? Now,Ihadajobwhichwasassteadyasanyjobwasinthosedays–that'stosay,notvery,butyouknow,nocomints.Ihadamortgageonmyhouse,butthenwhodidn't?Ipaidoffallmycreditdebtattheendofthemonth,soalthoughtechnically,Iwasindebttothecreditcard,itwasonlyforamatterofafewweeks.SoIassumedIhadagoodcreditrating.Callmesuperficial,andI'mnotproudofmyself,butthereandthen,Iwassuddenlylousofmyfriend.IdecidedInolongerwantedabluecard.Iwantedagoldone.Agoldcardwassuddenlyindispensable,itwouldmakemefeelgoodwithmyself,anddesirabletoothers. SoIappliedforthemostdistinctive,shinygoldencardtheIwasturned WhenIhadrecoveredfromtheshock,whichtookseveralseconds,Iaskedwhy.ItappearsthatbecauseIpaymycreditcardbillbothontimeandinfull,I'mnotthekindof theywanttohavetheirgoldcreditcard.Theytargetpeoplewhoarepronetoimpulse-buying,andpotentiallybadcreditrisks,temptedtospendmorethantheyhave,andliabletofallbehindwithrepayments.Thentheycanchargethemmoreinterest,andearnmoremoney.That'sthewaytheydobusiness. Sodoesthisexinwhythecreditcardcompaniesareluringimpoverishedstudentswithunrealisticinterestrates,likemykids? Threeweeksago,No.2daughtercamehomefromuniversityfortheweekend.She'sinhersecondtermofherfirstyear.Shehasastudentloanof£3,000,likemostofherfriends,andasmallallowancefromherpoormother(ha!)fortransport,books,livingexpenses.Shewearsclothesfromthelocalcharityshops,andrarelygoesout.Shehuggedme(neverusuallydoesthat)andthensaid,"Mum,Ineedtotalktoyou.""Whatisit,darling?lme "I'veappliedforacreditcard,andIneedsomeonetoactasaguaranteeforme.IsitOKifIputdownyourname?Thankssomuch,Mum,mustdash!Bye."AfterI'dhauledherbackintothehouse,ittranspiredthatherbankhadwrittentoherofferingacreditcardatalowinterestforatrialthree-monthperiod,subjecttosuitability...andsoon.Herbank!Itrustedthem!TheyknowevenbetterthanIdohowbrokesheis.Here'saseriousquestion.Whydotheycallthemcreditcardswhenitwouldbemoreaccuratetocallthemdebtcards? Here'sanevenmoreseriousstory.Anotherfriend'sdaughter,Kelly,wasstudyingmodernlanguagesatuniversity,andspentayearoverseas.Atsomepointintheyear,therewasachangeofprocedure,andKelly'sbankfailedtoallowhertoaccessherfundsinhercurrentaccount,becausetherequestwasfromoutsidetheUK.Naturally,therewasalengthycorrespondencewhileshetriedtosortthisout,sothedelayinbeingabletoaccessherfundsmeantthatshewentintothered,andherdebtsbegantorisemorethan£200abovetheagreedlimitonheroverdraftof£1,500. WhenKellygotbackhome,thebankchargedher£100forgoingoverthelimit,andinsistedshepaid£30amonthtobringthebalancebacktobelowherlimit.Theyomittedtolherthatshewasn'tactuallypayingoffthedebt,butonlytheexorbitantinterestontheoverspendoftheoverdraft. SoKellyhadtoturntohercreditcardwhichshehadusedsensiblyandsparinglyuntilthatpoint.Becauseshewasastudent,andbecauseshedidn'tuseitmuch,naturallyhercreditlimitwaslow.Andnot shepayoff theminimumpaymentonhercreditcardbill.Sothere werenotonlychargesowing,butalsocreditcarddebtsandinterest.Andofcourse,shewasrecordedasbeingabadcreditrisk. Thingsthenwentfrombadtoworse.Afewmonthsintoherfinalyear,thebanknotifiedherthatitwasgoingtoreduceherfrom£1,500to£1,000.Theytoldhertoapplyforastudentloantocovertherest.Butwhentheloan didacreditcheck,theydiscoveredthecarddebt.Guesswhat?Shedidn'tgetthe Thiswasadelightfulkidwhohadgreatrestraintwithherspendingandwaseconomicalaboutherlifestyle.Shedidn'tgoonspendingspreesbuyingnewshoes,andshedidn'tusehercreditcardasif(unlikeme)itwasafashionitem.Sheusedittobuyfood,tosurvive.Andwhathappened?Shehadtodropoutof IwishtherewasahappyendingtoKelly'sstory,althoughmaybetherewillbe.Forthemoment,she'sworkinginthelocalsupermarket,andit'sprobablethatshe'llhaveanothergoatuniversitywhenshehaspaidoffherdebts. Sothisiswhatthebanksdo.Theysettrapswhichappealtoourvanityandgreedandsometimestoourbasicneedforsurvival.Andthenwhenwefallintothetraptheyshout"Gotyou!Didn'tyourealizeitwasatrap?" Andherewearetoday,caughtinthecreditcrunch,withworldeconomiesinfall,allbecausethewickedbankerssetustrapswhichwefellinto,attractinguswithendlesspublicityforloansofmoneywhicheventheydidn'thave!Itnowappearstheywereborrowingontheirownflashygoldcreditcardstoo. SoIhaveasolutiontothecreditcardtrap,andIwantallofyoutolistentomeverycarefully. Iwantyoutolayoutallofyourcreditcardsinaline,takealargepairofscissorsandcutthemintosmallpieces.Thenputtheminanenvelopeandsendthemtoyourbank,withalettersaying(moreorless)"Itrustedyouandyoudeceivedme.You'vegotthewholeworldintothisridiculouscreditcardtrap,andifInowcutyourcardsinhalf,andtakeawayyourpotentialtotemptmoneyawayfromhonestpeoplelikeme,maybeitwillbeyourturntolearnwhatit'sliketorunoutofcash." Asforme,Idon'twantanymorecreditcards,nomorestatussymbols,nomorebadfeelingsaboutwishingIcouldshowhowsuperiorIamtoothers.I'mnotgoingtoyearnanymoreforwhatIcannotaffordorcannothave.Until4陷有一件事我得坦白几年前我排队为家人取戏票时我的朋也在为 家人取票我拿到了票用 付了账对这种非现的便利感到很满意。然后就轮到她付款了,整 也进行得样顺利,但我的高兴劲儿很快就变成了莫大的羞耻:我的太寒酸了是不显示地位的深蓝色卡而则是高级的金卡。的车比车新我的家比家漂亮她怎么看起来显得比我光鲜呢?我有一份跟那时候任何工作相比还算安定的工作——虽然不是非常安定,不过我也没什么可抱怨的。我是通过按揭买的房子,可那会儿谁买房不呢?个月底都付清欠款所以虽然从技术上讲我欠过公司的钱但只是欠几个星期而已所以我认为我的信用等级应该很高。然非常嫉妒那位朋友我决定不要蓝色了我要一张金卡金。于是,我去公司申请最特别、最耀眼的金卡可是,我的申请被了过了几秒钟我才从这个打回过神来我问自己为什么被拒绝显然因为次都按时全额付清欠款所以我不是他们有潜在信用风险经不住超支消费并且经常延期还款的人这样他们才有机会收取的利息挣的钱这就是他们的经营之道。这能够解释为什么公司会用超低利率像我们家孩子多数朋友一样她借了3,000英镑的学生并从她的()那里得到一小笔补贴,用于支付交通费、书费和生活费她拥抱了我(她以前从不拥抱我,然后说:“,

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