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ReadingAStudentStyle:TheUniversityofFashionLifeReadingAIpackedmyclothesforuniversitytwoweeksbeforeIleft.Iapproachedthetaskwithanoddmixtureofexcitementandtrepidation.UntilthatpointI’dbeenusedtoasprawlingassortmentofvintagedresses,silkscarves,tailoredjackets,longskirtsandplentyofcostumejewelry.Thesirencallofthecharityshopcombinedwiththeinheritedaccumulationofthreegenerationsofhats.gloves-and-gownshoardershadmadeforrichpickingsasIgotdressedeachmorning.Icouldchangecharacterbytheday,ifsowished,oreventhehour.1ReadingAShiftingtoacapsulewardrobewasinteresting.Icouldtakeonlythemostversatileitems.Blueleatherpencilskirtswereout,blackvelvettrousersin.Ihadpracticalitiestodealwith,too—potsandpans,booksandbedding—buttheclothesweremoreengaging.Theywerealsosafe,somethingfamiliartoholdontoduringthetransition.IhadnoideawhoImightmeetorhowIwouldfindmycourse,butatleastIhadakillerminiskirtortwotokeepmecompany.2ReadingAThere’satendencytotalkofthelifeofanewundergraduateasbeinganopportunitytoconstructidentitiesanew,togetridofpastassociationsorcharacteristics.It’sallinthelabel—”fresher”.Freshchance.Butsometimes,itseemedlessanopportunitytoestablishanythingparticularlynew,butrathertore.establishourselvesinanupdatedcontext.3ReadingAUniversityisabigswitch.Newplace,newpeople,questionableclubs,plentyofessays.Increasedresponsibility.Keepingupwithlaundry.Cooking.Socialising.Exploringthecityorcampusnowcalledhomeformuchoftheyear.Thosefirstfewweekswerehard.Beingindependentandsociable,Ihadassumedthemovewouldbe,ifnoteasy,thenatleastmanageable.InsteadIstruggled,feltalienatedfrommyself,andgottangledupinknottedquestionsofidentityandindividuality.HowdidIdefinemyself?Howwaseveryoneelsearoundmedefiningthemselves?Whyweremostofusmoreawarethanusualofthewayswewereviewingandbeingviewedbyothers?4ReadingASeveralpeopletoldme:“You’llalltryhardinthefirstweek.Giveitamonthandthensee.”Andit’strue.I’vealwaysstoodout.I’m5ft11inflats,makeunconventionaloutfitchoicesandhaveabitofahabitofstridingaroundstudiously.Icanbeshyandquietattimes,boldatothers.Duringthefirstterm,myclotheschoicesbecameawayofprojectingconfidence.Othershadsimilartechniques.MyfriendHelentalkedofassuming“redlipstickandadarkscowl”inmomentsofvulnerability.Anotherfriend,Mina,likenedheroutfitsto“armour”.Ononeday,whenIwasfeelinghomesick,IputonavintageyellowJaegerdresscoveredinapatternofcrayonedflowers.Betweenthatandtheblue,brimmedhat,Iprojectedamoreassuredversionofmyself.5ReadingAButmystylehaschangedsubtlysincebeinghere.Inearlyalwayspickcomfortableoptions,withdecisionspartlydictatedbyneedingoutfitsIcanbothcycleandstudyin.Havingsaidthat,I’mstillthequeenofoccasionalimpracticalities—flutteringalongonmybikeinvoluminousskirtsorcapesthatcatchthewind,bravingstormsinthetiniestoftinyvelvetshorts,onlymakinguseofaraincoatonceinabluemoon.6ReadingAPerhapstherealdifferenceisinthelimitedpickings,whichrequireamoreinnovativeapproachtore-use.ThejoyinthecreativityofdressinghasalsobeenamplifiednowIfeelmoreathomehere.I’vesettledin,scoutedoutfavouritecafés,spentwaytoomuchmoneyoncocktails,workedharderandreadmorethanIimaginedwaspossibleinsuchshortterms,madenewfriendsand,ofcourse,ransackedthelocalcharityandvintageshops.7ReadingAOfcourse,clothingasaformofcommunicationhasbothjoysandpitfalls—sadly,boysinbroguesarenotautomaticallygoingtobeengaging—andit’sbothdangerousandsuperficialtobaseperceptionsolelyonexternals.Yetoccasionallyitpaysoff.Startingaconversationwithadmirationforanoutfitcanbethesparktolightlong-termalliance.8ReadingARecentlyIwentforcoffeewithmyfriendHelen,bothofussnatchingagaspofsunshinebetweenhoursinthelibrary.Wesatoutside,warmstoneatourbacksandhotcupsinourhands,talkingoverthelastfewmonths.Iremindedherofthecommentshe’dpreviouslymadeaboutlipstickasaconfidencetrick.Shelaughed,andreplied:”Noneofuswereourselvesinthefirstterm,really,werewe?”Andshewasright.9ReadingBWhatFashionMeansforInternationalStudentsCollegecanbeaveryuglyplacewhenitcomestofashion.Itisakingdomofsweatpants,hoodies,jeansandunisexDukeT-shirts.Formanypeople,“pickinganiceoutfit”isthelastthingontheirto-dolist.Sometimes,whenIsaytheword“vogue”outloud,myfriendsthinkthatI’mspeakingsomekindofsecretlanguage.Foralongtime,Ibelievedthatcollegefashionwasdead.Andthen,whenIwasabouttogiveupandbuy10oversizedhoodiesonAmazontofitin,Idecidedtolookaroundoncemore.AndthenIsawit.Collegefashionisaliveandkicking—justtakealookatinternationalstudents.1ReadingBOnesuchstudentisfirst-yearJamiePalka,who,despiteherAmericanpassport,isCanadianatheart.WerecentlysatinherroominBassett,laughingaboutaphotoshootwehadthedaybefore,andwheneverJamietalkedaboutCanada,herentirefacelitupandherpale-blueeyesstartedtosparkle.“IliveinBuffalo,NewYork.Itis20minutesfromtheCanadianborder,”Palkasaid.“Canadahasalwaysbeenanextensionofmyhome—morelikemybackyardthanadifferentcountry.”2ReadingB3AsPalka’schildhoodwasequallysplitbetweenAmericaandCanada,herstylenowaccuratelyreflectstheclashofthesetwodifferentculturesandtheirsomehowsimilarinfluences.Whenshewasakid,sheusedtogotoasummercampinAlgonquinPark,whichwaspopularamongCanadianandFrenchgirls.TheyhadaveryoutdoorsyandruggedstylethatPalkaslowlygrewtoloveandappreciate.“Dirtyleather,cargopants,greens,darkgraysandtanThisrusticCanadianfashionirrevocablychangedmytaste,”Palkasaid.ThecampinspiredPalkatochooseonlytheclothesthatgavehertheabilitytomoveinsuchawaythatshewouldbecompletelyfree.Thisiswhyshenowhatesrestrictions—especiallyrestrictingclothing.4ReadingBAftertalkingtoPalka,Iwasinspiredtotraveltotheothersideoftheworldtofindnewculturalpatterns.Luckily,thiswaswhenImetDefneYorgancioglu—afirst-yearTurkishstudentwhocannotimagineherlifewithouttravelingand,inparticular,hitchhiking.Yorganciogludescribesherlifeasaprocessofconstantmovingfromplacetoplace,andherstyleisaclearrepresentationofsuchanadventurous,ficklewayofliving.5ReadingB“Ireallylikegettingthingsforcheaporfree.AlmostalltheclothesIownareeitherfrombazaars,thriftshopsorstreetmarkets,”Yorgancioglusaid.“ItrytowearsecondhandandcheapclothesbecauseitallowsmenottocaremuchaboutwhatI’mwearingandjustlivemylife,embracingalltherisksandaccidents.”“Inbazaars,weusedtohavetheseclothingpileswhereeveryonecouldgetapieceofwardrobeforonelira[25cents]andIhadtomakedowithit,”Yorgancioglucontinued.“ItaughtmyselftosewandIlearnedtotransformthisclothingintosomethingthatIcouldproudlywear.”6ReadingB7YorgancioglugrewupinabeachtownaroundIstanbul,soevenatDukeherfashionstylestillechoesthesoundsofwaves,seagullsandrustlingsand.“Inmytown,itwasalwayshotandhumid,sowearingcomfortableflowyandcottonclothesquicklybecamemyhabit,”Yorgancioglutoldme.“Nowmywardrobeconsistsmostlyofblacks,brownsandredsbecausethosearethecolorsthatremindmeoftheTurkishcultureIgrewuparound.”8ReadingB910MymetaphoricalvisittoTurkeyleftmewonderinghowEuropeancultureinfluencedDukestudents’fashionstyle.ThisiswhyIwassohappywhenIstumbleduponElenaCavallero—afirst-yearinternationalstudentfromItalywhoradiatessunshinewherevershegoes.Cavallero’sbroadsmileandmagicalabilitytolightupthespacearoundherdefinitelycomesfromgrowingupinRome,soakinginitssunshine,beautyandfashionculture.ReadingB11“AppearancesareextremelyimportantinItaly,”Cavallerosaid.“EverycornerofRomeismagnificently,shamelesslybeautiful,andpeopleusetheirstreetstylealmostasawaytorespectandcomplementthisbeauty.”Cavalleroexplainedthatthemaininfluencesonherstylewerethesun,gardens,Romanneoclassicismandthecity’sabundanceofopenspaces.Reading

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