Unit 3 Apparel Production（课件）- 《服装英语》同步教学（同济大学版）

FASHIONENGLISH

服

装

英

语

Unit3ApparelProduction（成衣生产）

Chapter2ManufacturingTechnology(服装生产技术)Thisunitincludesthemainworkingproceduresofapparelproduction,thespecifictechnologiesofeachprocess,specificationsofsewingmachines,variousstitchesandsewingcharacteristics.Bystudyingapparelproduction,studentscanmasteralargenumberofprofessionalvocabularyrelatedtoapparelproductiontechnology,andcanalsogainapreliminaryunderstandingoftheforeignapparelproductionsystem.Throughlearning,studentscanbroadentheirhorizonsandunderstandadvancedclothingtechnology.

本单元包括服装生产的主要工序、各工序的具体技术、缝纫机的规格、各种缝线和缝纫特性。通过学习服装生产，学生可以掌握大量与服装生产技术相关的专业词汇，也可以初步了解国外服装生产体系。通过学习，学生可以开阔视野，并了解先进的服装技术。Teaching

Contents

3.成衣生产1.Mastertheclothingvocabularyofproductiontechnology,garmentpartsandconstructions;2.Beabletodescribetheapparelproductionprocessflowandthespecifictechnologiesofeachprocesswithprofessionalwords;3.Beabletoreadandtranslatetextsinthisunit;4.Beabletoreadtherelevantarticleswithsimilardifficulty;5.Mastertheoverallprocessofapparelproductionandthespecifictasksofeachprocess.1.掌握生产工艺、服装部件和结构的服装词汇；2.能够用专业词汇描述服装生产工艺流程及各工序的具体技术；3.能够阅读和翻译本单元的课文；4.能够阅读类似难度的相关文章；5.掌握服装生产的全过程及各过程的具体任务。LearningObjectives3.成衣生产

Warming-up

Task1MatchthewordsinColumnAwiththeproperdescriptionsinColumnB.ColumnA（）1.cutting（）2.marking（）3.pressing（）4.notching（）5.spreading（）6.assemblingColumnBA.Markingontheedgesofthecomponentpartstoalignandsewtheparts.B.Joiningtheindividualpartsbyonestepuntilthegarmentiscompleted.C.Separatingpiecegoodsintothecomponentpartsofagarment.D.Shapingthematerial,garmentcomponentsandcompletedgarmentswithheat,moisture,pressureandtime.E.Arrangingallpatternpiecesonthefabricorpaper.F.Stackingthematerialonelayerontopofanothertocreatealay.Task2

Arrangethefollowingproductionoperationsinthecorrectorder.A.Cutting

B.Sewing

C.Design

D.Samplemaking

E.Spreading

F.Pressing

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）PartIOverviewofApparelProduction（成衣生产概述）Apparelproductionisaprocesswhichfabricisbeingconvertedintogarments.It'srequiredtofeatureinnovativenessanduniquenessinthemostidealwayasbeingalabor-intensiveindustry.Apparelstudentsshouldbetrainedwiththevariouspartsofthisfieldincludingdesigning,patternmaking,marking,manufacturingetc.成衣制作是一个将面料转换成服装的过程。作为劳动密集型产业，它需要以理想的方式来体现创新性和独特性。服装专业的学生应该进行这一领域各个环节的培训，包括设计、制版、排料、制造等。3.成衣生产NewWordsandPhrasesassemble[əˈsembl]v.缝合，组装assistantdesigner助理设计师basting[ˈbeɪstɪŋ]n.粗缝，疏缝针脚belt[belt]n.腰带binding[ˈbaɪndɪŋ]n.包边，捆边blindstitchhemmer缲边机buttonholer[ˈbʌtnhəʊlə]n.扣眼机button-sewmachine缝扣机contractor[kənˈtræktə(r)]n.承包商coverstitchmachine绷缝机croquis[ˈkrəʊkɪs]n.速写，素描cutting[ˈkʌtɪŋ]n.裁剪dart[dɑːt]省道epaulet[ˈepəlet]n.肩章fabrication[ˌfæbrɪˈkeɪʃn]n.面料，选择面料fastening[ˈfɑːsnɪŋ]n.紧固件，扣合处freelancedesigner兼职设计师fusing[ˈfjuːzɪŋ]n.上粘合衬工艺grade[ɡreɪd]v.推版grader[ˈɡreɪdə(r)]n.推版师high-end[ˌhaɪˈend]adj.高档的，昂贵的high-fashion[haɪˈfæʃn]n.高级时装knockoff[ˈnɒkɔːf]n.仿制品lockstitchmachine平缝机NewWordsandPhrasesmarker[ˈmɑːkə]n.排料图muslin[ˈmʌzlɪn]n.平纹细布notch[nɒtʃ]n.剪口

v.打剪口off-pressing[ɒfˈpresɪŋ]n.成品熨烫，终烫one-off[ˌwʌnˈɒf]n.一次性产品overedger[ˈəʊvəedʒə]n.包缝机，包边机pattern[ˈpætn]n.样版，纸样patternmaker[pætnˈmeɪkə]n.打版师patternmaking[pætnˈmeɪkɪŋ]n.打版，制版piecegoods布匹，面料piping[ˈpaɪpɪŋ]n.镶条productionpattern生产纸样prototype[ˈprəʊtətaɪp]n.样衣，原型samplegarment样衣seamstress[ˈsiːmstrɪs]n.女裁缝，做针线活的妇女sketch[sketʃ]n.草图sloper[ˈsləʊpə]n.纸样，版trend-setting[trendˈsetɪŋ]n.潮流的underpressing[ˈʌndəpresɪŋ]n.中烫，半成品熨烫wholesaler[ˈhəʊlseɪlə(r)]n.批发商yoke[jəʊk]n.过肩，育克zipper[ˈzɪpə]n.拉链NewWordsandPhrases重点词汇讲解basting

:Bastingissewinglong,easilyremovablestitchesbymachineorbyhand.Bastingstitchesareintendedtotemporarilyjoinfabricforseveralreasons.粗缝是用机器或手工缝制的长且易于拆卸的针脚。粗缝是由于各种原因用来临时连接织物。piping

:anarrowstripofclothusedtodecoratetheedgesofclothes.用来装饰衣服边缘的窄条布。Notes[1]Productdevelopment,orthecreationofnewstyles,involvesavarietyofspecificoperations:developingdesignideas,selectingfabricsthatareavailableandappropriatelypriced,makingthefirstpattern,makingasamplegarmentorprototype,evaluatingandrefiningthefitanddesign,computingthecost,makingaproductionpattern,makingduplicates,andgradingtheproductionpattern.productionpattern指车间中用于生产的纸样，在样衣制作后不断修改的基础上确定的；“duplicates”原意是复制品，这里指在样衣开发成功后，生产少量样衣，用于试销或其他用途。译文：产品开发，或称为新款式的开发，包含一系列具体步骤：开发设计理念，选择可用的、且价格合适的面料，制作最初纸样、制作样衣或服装雏形，评价、完善服装的合体性和款式，计算成本，制作生产纸样，样衣复制，生产纸样的推版。[2]Ifthedesigniscompletelynew,itiscutfrommuslin.Ifitisanewversionofapreviouslysuccessfulstyle,thesamplegarmentisoftencutfromasamplecutofamaterialbeingconsideredforproduction.后半句中有两个sample和cut，其词性和意义不同。第一个cut为动词，第二个asamplecutof指面料的样品，即剪样。译文：如果款式是全新的，样衣需要由平纹棉布来制作。如果款式是在过去成功样式的基础上进行的改造，样衣通常采用适合生产的面料剪样来裁剪制作。NotesNotes[3]Becausethesamplewillbeusedasaguideformakingtheproductionpattern,itmustbeasclosetoperfectaspossible.Toachievethisgoal,thesamplemakerfrequentlyusesbastingaidsandmoreunderpressingthanwouldbecost-effectiveinfinalproduction.bastingaids指假缝、粗缝的手法；underpressing指中烫，或半成品熨烫，过多使用会增加生产成本。译文：样衣作为制作大货纸样的指导，它必须尽可能接近完美。为了达到这个目的，样衣师会频繁地采用粗缝手段，并且比起追求成本效益的成品生产会采用更多的中烫。Notes[4]Generallythedifferencebetweensizessmallerthana10is1inch;forsizes10to16,itis1½inches;andforsizeslargerthan16,itis2inches,butthiscanvarywiththemanufacturer.differencebetweensizes是指某个部位的差值，决定推挡的尺寸。译文：通常尺寸小于10档差为1英寸，尺寸10-16档差为1½英寸,大于16档差为2英寸，这些推挡尺寸生产者均可以调整。Notes[5]Inthissystem,eachoperation—suchaspocketmaking,binding,sleeveclosingandzippersetting—iscompletedbyadifferentpersononanumberofidenticalpieceswiththemostappropriatemachinery.identicalpieces意为“完全相同的一组衣片”，这里指流水线上不同工人从事相同的服装部位缝合工作。译文：在这种体系下，每个工序，例如口袋制作、包边、袖子缝合以及上拉链，是由不同的人将很多完全相同的衣片用最适合的设备来完成的。PartIIMarking,SpreadingandCutting（排料、铺布和裁剪工序）3.成衣生产NewWordsandPhrasesbolt[bəʊlt]n.(布的)一匹，一卷dieclicker冲压裁剪机kraftpaper牛皮纸lay[leɪ]n.面料层marking[ˈmɑːkɪŋ]n.排料quilting[ˈkwɪltɪŋ]n.绗缝spread[spred]n.铺开的布料层spreader[ˈspredə(r)]n.铺布工spreading[ˈspredɪŋ]n.铺布，铺料selvage[ˈselvɪdʒ]n.布边threadtack线钉Notes[6]Marking,ormarkermaking,istheprocessoftransferringthepatterntothefabricorpaper.Itshouldnotbeconfusedwiththemarkingofcutparts.Marking在此处是指将所有衣片纸样放置在面料或纸上进行排料。英文中的marking原意为“标记、标识”，后文提到在裁剪结束后会对布片进行标识，为缝纫做准备。译文：排版或排料，是指将纸样转移到面料或纸上，不要将排料和裁剪后面料做标记两个概念混淆。Notes[7]Whetherdonemanuallyorwithaspreader,itisaslow,time-consumingprocessbecauseitmustbedonepreciselytoavoidfabricwasteandtoensurethatthepliesarealignedsothepartscanbecutaccurately.Thepliescanbespreadfaceup,facedown,orfacetoface.faceup，facedown和facetoface是排料时布层放置的几种方式。译文：无论是人工或是铺布机完成，这都是个缓慢费时间的过程，因为这个过程需要做得非常精确以避免面料的浪费，并确保堆叠的布层对齐使裁剪的部位非常准确。布层可以是正面向上、正面向下或正反交替铺开。ExercisesI.MatchthewordsinColumnAwiththeproperdescriptionsinColumnB.ColumnA（）1.piping（）2.binding（）3.seam（）4.prototype（）5.spreadColumnBA.Thefirstgarmentmadefromthedesignsketch.B.Astackoffabricpliessuperimposedoneontopofanother.C.Anarrowstripofmaterialortrimthatfinishestheedgebyenclosingtherawedges.D.Adecorativestripsewnintoaseamline.E.Aline,generallysewn,thatjoinstwoormorefabriclayersExerciseslining

basting

zipper

grading

pattern

notch

assemble

fabrication1.Manybreakthroughsin

techniquesandnewmaterialsmustbedeveloped.2.Aftercuttingprocess,thepiecesareseparatedandbundledappropriatelyfortheindividualoperatorswhowill

them.3.Asoneoftheleastexpensivefasteners,

allowacloselyfittedgarmenttobeopenedeasilyfordressing.4.Markingtheedgeswith

,thepatternpiecescanbejoinedaccurately.5.

isamethodforincreasinganddecreasingthesizesoftheindividualpatternpieces.6.Ifthe

piecescannotbesewntogetherproperly,thesamplemakerwilladvisethedesignteam.7.Unlessdesigned,otherwise,

doesnotshowatedgesofagarment.8.

isatemporarystitchusedtoholdpliestogetherbeforepermanentlystitching.II.Fillintheblankswithcorrectwordsinthefollowingbox．Exercises（）1.Whenadesignerismakingthefirstpatternwithapatternmakerclosely,thecroquismaybe

.A.veryclear

B.simple

C.veryaccurate

D.precise（）2.Thebasicblockisasetofpatternwhichusuallyhas

.A.constructionmethods

B.designfeatures

C.designdetails

D.nodesignfeatures（）3.Ifadesigniscompletelynew,thesamplegarmentwillbemadeby

atfirst.A.muslin

B.samplefabric

C.cotton

D.appropriatefabric（）4.Comparedwithfactoryoperatorswhoperformonlyoneortwooperations,thesamplemakerhas

.A.moreproficientskills

B.fasteroperatingspeed

C.moreextensiveskills

D.moreprofessionalskills（）5.Duplicatescanbeusedas

.A.aguideforadvertisingtheproductinprint

B.astandardforproductionbythecontractororfactorysupervisorsC.asampletoshowthefirm’snewlinetotheretailbuyers

D.alloftheaboveIII.Choosethebestansweraccordingtothetext.Exercises（）6.

canbedonebyCMTcontractors.A.Cuttingandsewing

B.Allproductionprocesses

C.Pressingandpackaging

D.Sewingandpressing（）7.Thewhole-garmentprocessiscostlyfor

.A.usi