英国文化-维多利亚服装.ppt

1、Art of UK,Instructor ：Yin Xing Students：Li Xiaoxiao ,Ma Shuang, Hu Xuejiao, Li Qinglian, Luo Zihan, Lin Yi, Tang Shu.,Womens costume of Victorian Age,Victoria.,Victoria，whose reign lasted 64 years in Britain history, is the longest monarch in British history. And shes the symbol of an era. During he

2、r reign, people were united by heart. Britain became a powerful empire.,1819/5/241901/1/22,Drinking tea in the afternoon,Britain became a powerful empire. Science and art had witnessed very fast development.,Charlotte Bronte Jane Eyre,The Mill on the Floss (by George Eliot),At that time many styles

3、of architecture appeared.,Greek style(希腊风格）,Gothic style （哥特式）,Shes the symbol of an era,change their living environment and interior decoration style.,Victoria Style,Let us take you on a tour of womens clothing in Victoria fashion in the 19th century.,Special bonnets （软帽）,Bonnets ,replacing the gre

4、at hats, changed the whole character of day dresses.,The early Victoria Age,In 1835, The look of demure prim gentility was emphasized by the loss of the great hats for bonnets.,In 1836 Gigot sleeves collapsed abruptly . Costume began to develop the sentimental early Victorian look we associate with

5、Queen Victorias early rule.,The early sentimental Victorian look often used to depict ladies of the era, c1838,By 1840 the collapsed sleeve was much narrower,All the boned bodice（胸衣）seam lines and trims were directional to emphasize the small waists,By 1845 the boned bodice （胸衣）was even more elongat

6、ed into a V shape. This meant that an early Victorian womans arm movements were restricted.,Flounces（荷叶边） were added in the early 1840s to make the skirts appear wider.,Beautiful flounces,Cartridge pleats (筒打褶）were used at first to draw the skirt fabric in 1841,Cartridge pleats,Later by 1850 the wor

7、d crinoline began to mean the whole of the beehive shaped skirt（蜂巢状裙子）. It was then only another step to call the later artificial or cage hooped support frame petticoats after 1856, crinolines.,The Mid Victoria Age,Factors Affecting the Fashion Silhouette after 1860,sewing machine（缝纫机） had been inv

8、ented couture design（服装设计） played a more important role in clothes world synthetic dyes(合成染料） made it possible to have intense colors（强烈色彩） Crinoline（裙撑） domed skirt silhouette towards the garment back.,Clothing designerCharles Worth,He was a great designer , and he designed an overskirt ,which caug

9、ht on in England after 1868 .,The new Princess gown,The Princess gown was cut in one piece and consisted of a number of joined panels fitted and gored from shoulder to hem Later Princess styles were slimmer and much more form fitting. Sleeves in day dresses were often of a banana shape.,Another top

10、skirt _ apron,Rounder waistlines were fashionable and even began to rise very slightly,Ball gowns with a train,From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. Soon by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.,soft polonaise bustle styles,By 1875 these styles became so extreme the soft fullness began to drop d

11、own the back of the garment Trains were very heavily ornamented,the Late Victoria Age,This fascinating era didnt end with the death of Queen Victoria. Many historians believe that the so-called “Victorian” end is after the end of the First World War.,The Princess Line Sheath,The soft polonaise style

12、 bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments,Dress with cuirasse bodice,The cuirasse bodice was corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour.,The New Hard Bustle of 1883,. It had minimal drapery compared

13、 to the former and a slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front.,The sharper tailored jacket fashion gave them a different posture with a more confident air reflecting the ideals of early female emancipation. The gowns of the 1880s were almost always made in two

14、 colours of material,Power Dressing,The leg of mutton sleeves,The leg of mutton sleeves continued to develop and sprouted high above the shoulders, By 1895 the sleeves swelled into enormous puffs similar to those of 1833. As happened in 1830 to balance the huge shoulders the skirt widened and flared

15、, whilst keeping the waist tight and handspan narrow.,Need freedom,The leader of the women liberation movement _ Clara Zetkin,Women began to wear trousers,In 1887, Smith Astor from the UK wore trousers and declared :”Pants are not only comfortable ,healthy, but dignified.”,Victorias costume had not

16、only changed the development of costume arts and the progress of the society, but also improved the status of women. In our view, Victorian costumes are beautiful and luxuriant. Its the noble symbol. But, when women at that time wore the breathless garment and the heavy bustle, who can understand their pain? That was bound under the beautiful appearanc