皮革与时尚Leather+and+Fashion.doc

皮革与时尚Leather and FashionKeith Wood*Keith Wood*文化与时尚CULTURE AND FASHION如今，一旦进入了时尚的世界，人们的具体居住地点已经完全无关紧要。我们曾经非常熟悉的文化似乎已经难以承受一轮又一轮，一波快似一波的时尚冲击了，而这种时尚变化却又是植根于广阔的世界大市场的。These days,if we are involved in any way in the world of fashion, it matters not where we live. The culture that surrounds our life has little bearing on the current fashion themes supported by world markets.在过去几年里，中国的一些大城市发生了巨大的变化，人们的生活水平得到了提高，生活方式也发生了明显的改观。香港的回归，中国与其他国家的密切交往，尤其是那场东南亚的金融危机使得中国这个世界人口最多的国家，成为最受全球瞩目的亮点，成为下个世纪最有希望的地方。世界的时尚舞台越来越多地融入了中国文化，也有越来越多的中国人参与到对时尚文化的演绎中来。时装和配饰业成为中国最富潜力的行业之一。当然这种潮流也不可避免地影响了皮革行业，服装革和鞋面革的开发开始顺应市场，跟着流行趋势走。这股强大的市场需求却又是由中国人自己创造的。In the last few years there have been many changes in the way of life in the main cities of China. The return of Hong Kong and closer relations with other countries, particularly those of southeast Asia have brought an awareness of world wide fashion to a growing proportion of the Chinese people. Producing fashion clothing and accessories is a growing business interest within a market the size of China and the influences extend into the leather industry. Leather for clothing and shoes begins to follow the fashion demands of the world as the Chinese people create the demand for these fashions.中国皮革生产厂家和经营单位已经把生意做到了欧美国家，而要成功占领这个市场，不仅要满足当地对皮革质量、外观、手感的要求，还要考虑一季又一季变化多端的潮流因素。The need to export has encouraged Chinese manufacturers to market their goods in countries as far away as Europe and America. In the leather industry this means ensuring that the leather made in China for export meets the demands of the world for quality, performance, attractive looks and feel, and constant changes brought about by new fashions as they are developed season by season.当今的时尚潮流CURRENT FASHION TRENDS今年年底，许多国家都会以各种形式庆祝千禧年的到来，这对每个人来说，都具有非同寻常的意义。这时候，人们开始把当前的时尚预测同那些科幻电影里的人物来比较。实际上，近五十年来流行乐坛的歌星，电影、电视以及戏剧界的明星们对时尚流行起了相当大的影响。因为有了他们，杂志上刊载了大量的有关时尚、潮流的文章和图片，这类文章可以说是老少皆宜，人人爱看。由此，不难理解为什么时尚变化得那么快，每一季节的变化又是那么明显而有特色，为什么那么多人都爱赶时髦。At the end of this year much of the world is celebrating the year 2000,the start of the second Millennium in the ordering of the Julian calendar. This an unique event for everyone. In the world of fashion, the Millennium is a moment when people will compare current fashion predictions with those worn by the characters of science fiction films in the cinema and on television. In fact,the stars of pop music, theatre,cinema and television have had a very strong influence on fashion in the last fifty years. Add to this the articles on fashion that are printed in the many magazines published for reading by people of all ages, and you can begin to understand why it is that fashion changes so rapidly and distinctively from season to season and why everybody buys clothing and shoes that are in fashion.对皮革而言，时尚的影响不外乎颜色、纹理和手感三个方面，其中颜色又因为对视觉最有影响力而起主导作用。每一种颜色都会因皮革纹理和手感的微妙差别而具有不同的效果，所以颜色的选择既要考虑纹理和手感的流行性，还要顾及销售地区的传统文化和宗教禁忌等。制革厂必须有能力来理解、解释每种颜色的色调，美洲、欧洲、亚洲可以使用同一基础色系，但是具体的色调、光泽则是绝对不同的。Within the leather industry the main fashion influences are colour, texture and feel. Of these colour is the dominant influence since it has the most obvious visual impact. However, the individual shades of colour that are chosen are related in subtle ways to different fashion trends in texture and feel of leather and also to the area of the world in which the leather is to be sold. The tanner needs to be able to interpret shades of colour, America, Europe and southeast Asia will use the same basic fashion colours but exact tone and gloss will be different.每次的流行趋势发布，都会预测许多流行色和下一季在款式及细节的某些变化，这种发布通常是国际性的，一般都由毛纺行业唱主角。在皮革行业内，Stahl公司发布了自己的色卡，预测皮革流行色，这些色彩揉和了世界的潮流因素，能够满足皮革服装和皮鞋设计师的创意。Fashion statements consisting of many colours and variants for the coming seasons are developed internationally and the wool industry plays a major part in this. Within the leather industry, Stahl produces its own colour card, forecasting a selection of these colours for use on leather that will blend with the worlds fashions, matching or contrasting to suit the anticipated needs of designers of clothing and shoes.这一次发布的是对2000年春夏的流行预测。在我们即将开始生活的新的千禧年伊始，幻想的科幻世界将与现实生活相互融合、共同存在。对它的定义就是：一切事物都是、也不是我们所能预料的。我们将要生活在一个充满矛盾的世界里，在这里，天然面料和人造材料总是在不断地寻求协调，实用性和诱惑力最终使它们形成了平衡。高科技面料的引入使得自然看起来不自然，而反之亦然，不自然的看起来好象很自然。Stahls current colour forecast covers the Spring and Summer seasons next year, the year 2000.The imaginary world of science fiction and the real world will come together as we start to live in the new Millennium. The fashion statement for this time is a new one for 2000 and beyond, Things are and are not what we expect. We shall be living in a world of contrasts, with harmony and utility creating and intriguing balance between the natural and the man-made. The introduction of the unexpected will make the natural look unnatural and vice versa with the supernaturals. Perhaps it can be likened to the Ying and the Yang.的确，平衡是值得为之而奋斗的，功能性和创新性、实用性和创造力之间的平衡等等。应该开发新材料、新纹理和新的感觉，不应仅仅满足于简单、美丽的产品。充满美感的色彩、形状和感觉保证了2000年的设计将是艺术与功能的完美结合。Indeed balance will be something to strive for; balance between function and innovation, practicality and creativity. We shall explore new uses of materials, new textures and feel. It will no longer be sufficient to have simple, beautiful products. The aesthetics of colour,shape and touch will ensure that art and function will combine in year 2000 designs.2000年春夏流行趋势COLOURS FOR SPRING AND SUMMER 2000Colours for the Spring and Summer seasons in the Millennium year fall into five distinct groups related to the ways in which the designer wishes to use colour as a fashion statement, be it muted or bright or a combination of the two in matching or contrasting colour effects.2000年春夏流行色由5个截然不同的部分组成，能够适应设计师以颜色为主体的设计，色调可以柔和，可以明亮，还可以是二者结合的同系色或对比色效果。“超现实”选择了一系列粉色和白色以显示一种光滑柔软的抛光涂饰和粉笔效果。白色、淡粉绿色、百合色及泥土色映衬出大自然的柔和和自然。“机械”色系代表了一种强烈的生活态度。灰绿色、灰蓝色、灰色以及眩目的金属铜色都表现出类似大理石、雪花石膏的效果和花岗岩的表面甚至于更加生动、跳跃的燃烧的金属铜和色泽较深的金属光辉。这种效果主要由高光的修面革、油光革和漆革来表达。“融合”则带来了春天的惬意感受。明亮且不失柔和的早春色彩，粉、黄、绿、蓝、琥珀色等都是表现天然纹理的最佳选择，尤其在表现软硬、清澈与混浊、微观与宏观等对比效果时，更是“舍我其谁”。“迷”才是真正的明快，每种颜色都体现了明暗的对比，能够贴切的表现光环和斑纹，透明的和高光的漆皮印花效果。同时，该色系还可以满足反绒面革、磨砂革、软绒面革、油感革和蜡感革对颜色的微妙要求。“能量”是一幅科幻的图画，种种超现实、悬浮的效果加上由条块重叠、交错形成的图案让人觉得好像漫步于太空之中。种种颜色勾勒出下个世纪清晰而又紊乱的景象，一切都好像科幻电影里说的一样。欧美的时装舞台上，已经有设计作品意图唤醒我们头脑中对宇宙的想象，这些颜色将带我们去徜徉那个世界。访问Stahl网站可以对这些颜色有一个感性认识，网址：www.S。Supernatural is a range of pastels and whites selected to give polished finishes and chalk tints with a smooth soft feel and perhaps a pearl or sheen effect to accentuate the shade. Whites and pastel greens lilacs and earth colours reflect the gentler, natural colours of nature.A stronger attitude to life is the effect of using Mechanism colours. Mostly pale greens, blues and greys they also include brilliant, metallic bronze and are used for effects like marble and cool alabaster, for the grain effects of granite and for more vivid,lively burnished bronze and deep metallic lustres, as well as high shine corrected grain leathers and oil and patent effects.Spring-like in their visual effect are the Fusion colours. Brighter, yet still with the softness of new Spring colours, pink, yellow, amber green and blue are represented in shades that are ideal for using on natural textures and in the contrast of soft against hard, clear and opaque, and micro and macro prints.Real brightness is an Enigma. Every colour is represented in contrasting light and dark shades. They can be used to give luminescent riplle and dapple textures, liquid and patent looks and on giant print effects. At the same time they can be used to give the subtlety of colour demanded on suedes, nubucks and soft velvety, oily or waxy leathers.Picture sci-fi! The Energy of surrealist effects, fluorescent effects and patterns with stripes or overlays and you may be in the world of the space traveller. These colours have the clean, tanginess of the hard, clean lines that sci-fi films have led us to believe will be the world of the next century. We have already seen designes on the fashion catwalks of Europe and America that remind us of the strong, linear looks of life in space fiction stories. These are the colours, the Energy to go with what we think such a life style will be.If you are connected to the Internet, a good idea of these colours can be obtained by visiting Stahls web site, www.S.流行效果FASHION EFFECTSThe influences of fashion have led the leather industry to produce brush-off or rub-off effects, for pearlised and metallic finishes, and for printed, distressed and very soft leathers. Each requires its own approach to upgrading and finishing.Brush-off effects时尚潮流引导皮革工业开发出擦色效果、珠光和金属涂饰、印花效果及非常柔软的皮革。每种效果都需要工艺技术的改进和涂饰技术。擦色效果这种效果的实现,可使用一种与顶层颜色不一样的颜色（通常较淡）来进行底涂。顶层材料很软，可以在制革厂或制鞋厂磨掉，从而形成双色效果。擦色革多用全粒面或修面革制作，可以为光面、印花革或摔软革。各种色调的微妙变化增加了对比色的装饰效果，大大提高了等级率。These are produced by applying a base coat which is different in colour, usually lighter, than the coloured top coat.The top coat is soft and can be rubbed off either in the tannery or in the shoe factory to give a two tone appearance. Brush-off effects can be produced on either full or corrected grain leathers and can be smooth, printed or milled. Any number of permutations from subtle tone-on-tone effects to garnish contrasting colours are possible and all offer opportunities for quality improvement.珠光和金属效果Pearls and metallics.这两种效果也是提高等级率的有效途径。通常使用颜料膏（多为黑色）和树脂进行牢固的底涂来表现金属效果，然后再用珠光颜料膏和金属涂料进行顶涂，涂饰方法与常规方法无异。还可以与其它提高等级率的方法结合起来，如：顶染与压花相结合，压花与镶嵌结合等。These again offer many opportunities to improve selection and quality. Not only do they require a solid base coat of pigment (often black) and resin to carry the metallic effect, but the pearl pigments and metallic pastes give excellent coverage, acting in the same ways as conventional pigments. This can be combined with other upgrading techniques such as embossing and tipping, or embossing and inlay时尚印花Fashion prints 许多人认为，印花技术只适用于低价位皮革，实际上，如今世界上许多非常昂贵的皮革都采用了这种技术。印花革的制作要比变色革复杂得多，比如说一种表面非常光滑的印有蛇皮花纹的时尚皮革，就是印上爬行动物的花纹后，又用珠光粉顶涂处理而成。好的印花革对压花板的要求非常苛刻。Some people think of printing as something carried out on low-priced leather, yet some of the most expensive leathers in the world today are printed leathers. Printed leather can be much more than a pigmented two tone effect. An example of an imaginative smooth printed high fashion leather might be a reptile print tipped with pearl. The use of good quality embossing plates is important仿旧革Distressed leathers仿旧革开始流行于几年前，那时多用来做皮革服装。原料皮的质量越差，伤疤、划痕越多，效果越明显，是成功利用低级皮的一个有效方法。Distressed leathers first came to prominence several years ago when they were used for garment manufacture. The lower the quality of the raw material, the more scratches and scars there are, the better the effect looks;this is an opportunity for making the most of low quality hides.制作时使用硬性、收缩性较强的或不成膜的树脂与颜料膏配合，用特定的方法涂饰，使其只进行有限的粘结，最终膜会按照预期的目的裂开，表现出特殊的重复效果。对于反绒革和磨砂革，可用含氟防水剂添加到封底剂中。The effects are made using a hard, shrinking or non film forming resin combined with pigment and applied in such a way that adhesion is limited so that the film will crack and flake in the controlled way necessary to give a repeatable appearance. A sealer coat with a fluorocarbon water repellent can also be used to seal suedes or nubucks when they are given a distressed look.另一种方法是，先在全粒面革上使用阳离子封底剂限制粘结，然后使用轮转凹版印刷机在坯革上施加一层硅酮和树脂混合物，这样也能在需要的地方使涂层剥落。通常在摔软后，坯革获得了某种效果和手感后再封底。封底的目的是加强与底涂剂的粘合，提高涂层的物理性能。Another way of creating the effect is with a cationic sealer coat on full grain leather to limit adhesion. The effect has also been created using rotogravure printing with an engraved roller using a resisting silicone and resin mix on the crust which again causes the finish to fall off in controlled areas. Usually a sealer coat is applied after milling to achieve the desired effect and feel and to improve the physical properties by binding the previous coats together slightly.仿旧革可以通过磨革来有效提高等级率，这里的磨革操作很轻，有点儿象抛光，目的是为了增强皮张的表面平滑性，磨掉细小的伤残。Distressed leathers offer possibilities for upgrading using techniques such as buffing. Light buffing is commonly used almost like a polishing action to give a smooth level surface, taking the edges off minor defects and resulting in an evenly absorbent surface which is of paramount importance in obtaining a level finished result.软革Soft leathers软革是当今最流行的品种了，它广泛用于皮鞋、箱包和家具的制作。许多品种都要求轻涂饰、表面光滑、柔软有丝绸感。基于阳离子蜡和非离子或阳离子树脂及粘着剂的阳离子涂饰或半阳离子涂饰最适宜做此类皮革。由于电性不同，阳离子涂饰剂可以非常均匀地覆盖、结合于伤残部分，起到了美化作用。阳离子涂饰系统可以制造出有蜡感和手感非常柔软的皮革。值得注意的是，由于电性不同，喷涂时要注意设备的良好清洗，以免与常规的阴离子涂饰剂发生交联。底涂剂应选择那些能够与蜡剂良好结合的树脂。柔软、自然的皮革可以使用软性、有消光作用的聚氨酯，在底涂和顶涂浆料中添加适量手感剂有助于赋予皮革恒久的手感效果，使涂层与皮革融为一体。Soft leathers are very much in vogue at the moment, not just for clothing but also for shoes, bags and upholstery leathers. Most requirements are for a lightly finished, quite glossy leather with a soft, silky handle. Cationic finishes or semi cationic formulations which are based on cationic waxes and either non ionic or cationic resins and binders are ideally suited to the production of such leathers.Because these waxes are chemically charged in a different way to conventional anionic finishes they sit in the grain layer, holding up subsequent finish coats, causing them to cover evenly over damaged areas, scars and grainy areas alike.Cationic finishes produce a very soft leather with a soft waxy touch. Because they are cationic and most finishes are anionic, cross contamination between the two has to be avoided, especially in the equipment used for their application. The use of selected base coat resins is vital to achieve satisfactory adhesion to the wax sealer coat.Soft, natural leathers can also be achieved using dull, soft polyurethanes. Formulating some soft wax and feel modifiers in both the base coat and the top coat will help to give a permanent soft feel which will give the impression of the finish being part of the leather.耐摩擦革Taber resistant leathers高档皮包、皮具以及运动休闲皮鞋都要求皮革具有很好的耐摩擦性。Taber试验就是用于检测涂饰革的耐摩擦性能的。将待测皮革弯成环，穿在一个转盘上，用两个负重的轮子旋转摩擦，摩擦力的大小可由轮子的负重程度来调节。要通过这个测试，需要有非常牢固的底涂层和耐摩擦的顶涂层。因此，在底涂时经常使用粘结促进剂，如果适当使用一些聚氨酯，对于提高涂层的粘着效果和整体表现都很有益处。High resistance to abrasion or scuffing is being increasingly requested for high fashion leather goods and bags and for sports and casual footwear. The Taber test is commonly used for measuring the abrasion resistance of the finished leather. A circular sample of leather is mounted on a turntable and two weighted wheels of varying severity, from soft rubber to carborundum, rub against it as it revolves.To pass this test, good adhesion, a tough base coat and a top coat able to withstand the extreme stresses of the test cycle are essential. An adhesion promoting sealer coat is therefore recommended and some polyurethane should be incorporated in the base coat, possibly cross linked to further improve adhesion and general performance. Lastly, a water based polyurethane top coat again cross linked, similar to the type used in finishing upholstery leather, will usually perform very well as these are designed to give a soft handle with excellent wear properties.防水革Water resistant leathers如今皮革的一项重要性能就是防水性。要实现这一目的，就必须鞣制、复鞣、涂饰通盘考虑，避免使用润湿剂、避免激烈的机械作用如摔软、熨平等。涂饰时，应首先选择一种粘着性较强的封底剂，采用常规的涂饰方法即可。防水革对涂膜的强度要求很高，但又不能超过粘着值，以免在试验和穿着使用过程中出现膜的剥离现象。实践证明，丙烯酸树脂和聚氨脂结合使用，效果很好。应该注意的是，涂饰前后都应检查皮革的防水性，以保证涂饰过程中，没有削减坯革的性能。One of the most common demands today is for leather to be water repellent and water spot resistant. To be totally successful, the whole process of tanning, retanning and finishing has to be thought through from the raw hide itself. The use of wetting agents in any stages of processing must be avoided. So too must excessive mechanical action such as milling and heavy plating.When finishing waterproof leather, the application of an adhesive sealer coat is necessary followed by the application of light coats of fairly conventional finishes with selected resins and pigments to achieve the desired aesthetic appearance. Combinations of acrylic and polyurethane resins are preferred to all-polyurethane as the film strength is critical and must not exceed the adhesion value if the finish is not to peel off on testing or in wear. Water resistance should be checked before and after finishing to ensure that the finishing process has not reduced the performance of the crust m