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苏州大学本科生毕业设计（论文）The comparison of the Chinese and foreign clothingpart1.Change of Chinese Clothing An outstanding characteristic of traditional Chinese clothing is not only an external expression of elegance, but also an internal symbolism. Each and every piece of traditional clothing communicates a vitality of its own. This combination of external form with internal symbolism is clearly exemplified in the pair of fighting pheasant feathers used in head wear originating in the battle wear of the Warring States period (475-221 B.C.). Two feathers of a ho bird (a type pheasant good at fighting) were inserted into the head wear of warriors of this period to symbolize a bold and warlike spirit.Archaeological findings of 18,000 year-old artifacts such as bone sewing needles and stone beads and shells with holes bored in them attest to the existence of ornamentation and of sewing extremely early in Chinese civilization. Variety and consistency in clothing were roughly established by the era of the Yellow Emperor and the Emperors Yao and Shun (about 4,500 years ago). Remains of woven silk and hemp articles and ancient ceramic figures further demonstrate the sophistication and refinement of clothing in the Shang Dynasty (16th to 11th century B.C.). Typical of these three types of clothing were wide and voluminous sleeves and a very loose fit. Tunic and trousers or tunic and skirt, utilized a very minimum number of stitches for the amount of cloth used. So because of their relatively plain design and structure, embroidered edgings, decorated bands, draped cloth or silks, patterns on the shoulders, and sashes were often added as ornamentation. These varied designs came to be one of the unique features of traditional Chinese dress. Darker colors were favored over lighter ones in traditional Chinese clothing, so the main color of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark while bright, elaborate tapestry designs accented. Lighter colored clothing was worn more frequently by the common people for everyday and around the house use. The Chinese associate certain colors with specific seasons: green represents spring, red symbolizes summer, white represents autumn, and black symbolizes winter. The Chinese are said to have a fully developed system of matching, coordinating, and contrasting colors and shades of light and dark in apparel. Today, Fashion designers use a mixture of traditional and modern ideas to create new fashions. These new fashions also incorporate age-old motifs such as guardian deities, lions, and masks of Chinese opera characters. Chinese bronze is another source of printed, woven, embroidered, and applied design for clothes. Some of the distinctive designs include dragons, phoenixes, clouds, and lightning. Motifs from traditional Chinese painting also end up in woven or printed fashion designs. In modern society, men are seen at social occasions wearing the dignified and refined traditional Chinese long gown, and women often wear the chi-pao, a modified form of a traditional China Dynasty fashion, on formal occasions. The variations of height, length, width, and ornamentation of the collar, sleeves, skirt, and basic cut of this Oriental fashion are limitless. part2.A Comparison of Chinese and Western Clothing Culture 1. Introduce In a sense, clothing reflects cultivation, taste, even dignity, and personality. It does not only beautify ones appearance but also represents a national political, economic, scientific, technological, and cultural landscape. In a word, it reflects the nations overall quality. As one of the human culture manifestations, clothing culture was born to the national difference. This paper has analyzed the difference of Chinese and the Western clothing cultural in many aspects. The innovative spot of the paper is that it uses artistic conception to expatiate the Chinese and the Western clothing cultural differences. It enables people to have further understanding of Chinese and the Western clothing culture, achieving a better inheritance and development. Clothing is a mundane part of our daily life. Yet in every culture, clothing is one of the most powerful and ubiquitous forms of visual communication. Judging peoples clothes they wear, we can easily evaluate their social status, occupation, ethnic or national identity, and so on. Manipulating the same sets of signals, people can declare their individuality, indicate their beliefs, and signify their membership within various groups through the way they dress. Clothing is human unique achievement. It is not only the material civilized crystallization, but also the meaning of spiritual civilization. The human passed through society from barbarism to the civilization, marched forward slowly for several thousand years. After our ancestors left the apes and monkeys with a hands-clasped bow, they draped over the animal skin and the leaf to go through the years in wind and rain which counted with difficulty, and finally strode in the civilized time difficultly. Then they got to warm the body by leaves, created a material civilization. However, to pursue beauty is the human instinct. The clothes on human as the gold plating in Buddha, whose aim is not only to cover and warm body, but also to make them look more beautiful. After the appearance of clothing, people gradually put their custom, appeal, color interest, as well as all sorts of cultural mind, and the religious idea into the clothing, to reflect the connotation of clothing culture. Therefore a nationalitys clothing characteristic is deeply rooted in national culture. The Chinese and Western clothing went through the millennium history continually, and then formed their own special style and system. 2.Different rank concepts in Chinese and Western clothing 2.1 Rank concept of clothing in China China is the nation of etiquette. The goal of the rituals is to maintain “the etiquette has the different ranks”, and clothing is the representation of different ranks. Therefore, the Chinese clothing culture is the symbol of politics. For example, the King always wore the fur coat as sacrificial clothing in the significant festival. The quantity and the quality of the pearls enchased in the crown are different according to the owners status. The clothes are not only different in color, but also in the design. The crown of king and the fumigated clothing are decorated by twelve kinds of emblems. The emblems refer to the sun, the moon, the stars, the dragon, the insect; the algae, the fire, and the embroidery on the ceremonial dress of noblemen in ancient times, as well as the unicorn, which have their symbolic significance. The garments of upper duke take nine chapters, but the marquis clothing have seven chapters, or five chapters. The reason why people make such a complex stipulation to the clothing is that it can distinguish miscellaneous and simpleness, and classify the senior and junior. When the dynasty changed, especially when another race to invade. It always caused a dramatic revolution in the national clothing. 2.2 Rank concept of clothing in Western countries The break of the western culture and the primitive effect are quite thorough. The ancient Greece city-state system demonstrated，whose society had not been controlled by an emperor. Therefore the western clothing rank idea is quite weak and not strict except the extremely special ceremony activity. Upscale works and fine lining mainly display their rank differences. Many noblewomen bribe the clothing artisan in the palace to know what kind of clothing the queen will wear in the social occasion. Then they dress up as the same as their queen, in order to show off. Their queen always permits others to wear the same attire like hers. This tolerant behavior causes little exclusive politics in the clothing, such as design, color, pattern and aesthetic factors.3.The different culture Of Westerners Can we comprehend our society by observing the appearance and behavior of its people because of the way people dress reveals peoples attitudes and interests ? While when we view this fantastic world , we will realize this point of view is reasonable, For instance: the French dress romantically because romance and imagination are the main factors in French culture; the American dress optionally which is the result of Americans quick rhythm of life and the Japanese dress formally, which may partly because the emphasizing of comity in Japanese culture. Thus, when we carefully appreciate different dresses from different countries, we can realize distinct cultural atmosphere.Also, changing in peoples dressing styles coincide with value changes of a society.A quite typical instance is Artistic Dress Movement happened in 1860s, which were fashion trends in nineteenth century clothing. Dresses were loosely fitted and comparatively plain, often with long puffed sleeves; they were made from fabric in muted colors derived from natural dyes, and could be ornamented with embroidery in the art needlework style.Artistic Dress gradually became popular in intellectual circles and among artist for it natural beauty, it also reinforce their social ideals of quality materials , respect for the work of hands, and the purity of medieval design. Such evidence demonstrate the truth that dress and appearance of people are the mirror of an age.中西方服装的比较 1.中国服装的改变 一个显著的特色传统的中国服装不仅是一种优雅的外在体现,但也是一个内部的象征。每一片生机将传达自己。 这两组的外在形式与内在的象征符号是清楚地体现在战斗的一对雉羽毛用于头戴来源于仗着的战国时期(公元前475 - 221)。两个羽毛的鸟(一种善于战斗野鸡)插入头戴的战士的这段时间,象征一个大胆的和好战的精神。 18000岁的文物考古发现如骨针壳和石头珠孔厌烦他们证明存在的装饰缝纫非常早期的中华文明。多样性和一致性大约建立服装时代的黄帝和皇帝姚明和顺(大约4500年前)。剩下的丝绸和麻编织的文章和古陶瓷数据进一步证明的先进性和精致的服装在商代(公元前世纪到11到16世纪)。 典型的这三种类型的衣服袖子,宽,大量的一个非常松散的状态。外套和裤子或束腰外衣、裙子,使用非常少量的针布使用金额。由于其相对简洁的设计和结构,绣花装修乐队,覆盖布或丝绸、图案的肩膀上,通常是增加一条,作为装饰腰带。设计了这些各种各样的一大特色的中国传统服装。 深色的颜色是淡色皮肤的人,则偏爱在中国传统服装,所以主要的颜色的衣服往往是黑暗仪式而明亮,精心设计的织锦重读。穿着浅色的衣服更频繁的普通百姓和周围的房子为日常使用。中国副某些颜色和特定季节:绿色代表春天,红色象征的夏天,白色代表了秋天,黑色象征着冬天。中国被认为是一个完全开发的系统配套的、协调、对比色彩和阴影中光明与黑暗的服饰。 今天,设计师运用混合的传统和现代思想创造的新的流行款式。这些新的流行款式也将古老的主题如监护人神、狮子和面具的中国戏剧人物。中国的青铜是打印的另一来源、机织物、绣花,并应用设计的衣服。一些独特的设计包括龙、凤、云、和闪电。从中国传统绘画主题也最终在编织或打印的服装设计。在现代社会里,男人都出现在社交场合穿着端庄雅致的中国传统长袍,妇女常常穿针,提出一种改进形式的一个传统的清的时尚。高度的变化,长度,宽度,和装饰的领子,袖子,裙子,和基本减少这个东方时尚是无限的。2. 比较中西服饰文化 在某种意义上,服装体现培养、品位、甚至尊严和人格。它的设置不仅美化人的外表,还能代表一个国家政治、经济、科学、技术、文化景观。总之,它反映了民族的整体素质。作为人类文化的表现形式,服装文化出生国家差异。本文分析了中国和西方不同服装文化在很多方面。摘要创新的地方就是它使用意境阐述中国和西方服饰文化之间的差异。它使人们有进一步的了解中国和西方服装文化,实现一个更好的继承和发展。1.介绍 : 一个普通的衣服是我们日常生活的一部分。然而在每一个不同的文化、服装是一种非常强大有力的视觉沟通和无所不在的方式。人们的衣着判断,我们就可以很容易地评估他们的社会地位、职业、种族或民族身份等等。同一套信号处理,人们可以声明他们的个性,预示着他们的信仰,象征着他们的会员在不同的团体通过他们的衣服。服装是人类独特的成就。它不仅是物质文明的结晶,也是精神文明建设的意义。通过人类野蛮社会文明,缓慢地往前走,几千年。在我们的祖先留下的猩猩和猴子有手提弓,搭在动物皮肤和叶经