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1、The Lure of Namibia 充满诱惑的纳米比亚AS the first rays of the sun pierce the thick darkness of the Namibian desert, sinuous ridges of quartz sand ignite in a firestorm of seared orange. Then the sky lightens to the new day, revealing the sea of sand mountains, their crisp edges and perfect curves wrought an
2、d polished by the expert chisel of the Kalahari and Atlantic winds. 【当早晨第一束阳光穿透纳米比亚黑暗的沙漠时,蜿蜒的石英沙丘刹那间被镀上了一层金黄色。这时,明亮的天空照亮了新的一天,也唤醒了这片沙丘的海洋。来自卡拉哈里沙漠和大西洋的风精凿出了这片沙丘匀称的边缘以及完美的曲线。】Skip to next paragraphWith the tracks of yesterdays visitors to the Sossusvlei dunes burnished by the breeze, you cant resist
3、trudging perhaps plodding or crawling up at least one of the pristine hills, some towering to 1,000 feet, instinctively looking for shimmers of water. But from the top, theres no sign of the sea; it retreated millions of years ago, back when continents were drifting wildly.【昨天到索苏维来沙丘旅行的人们留下的足迹已经被微风吹
4、散了,你可能无法忍受在沙丘里徒步行走或许行动起来会很缓慢。在你爬上了1,000多英尺高的保留着原始风貌的小山后,你会本能地去寻找水源。但当你从山顶往下看的时候,你根本看不到有海的迹象;几百万年前,由于地壳运动和大气变化,这里的海洋消逝了,当板块发生剧烈运动时,它会再回来的。】Whats left is a dazzling geological display of possibly the worlds highest sand dunes, extending for 400 miles along the coast and more than 80 miles inland. Thos
5、e naïve enough to believe that a dune is a dune is a dune are faced with a dizzying array of sand configurations: parabolic dunes with dynamic slip faces, long and narrow transverse dunes, dunes petrified by ancient climate change, and star dunes formed by winds that buffet them from all sides.
6、【现在剩下的是让人眼花缭乱的地质景观,它们可能是世界上最高的沙丘,沿着海岸延伸400英里,向内陆延伸80多英里。那些天真到相信沙丘仅仅只是一个沙丘的人现在将看到排列的令他们眼花缭乱沙丘构造:流动的抛物型沙丘、长而窄的沙丘断面、因远古时代气候变化而形成的石化沙丘以及由几组不同方向的风力共同作用堆积而成的金字塔型沙丘。】Its the sort of environment that evokes foreboding, although the greatest danger is probably a broken fan belt or a serious case of hysteria
7、induced by the appearance of an enormous dancing spider. But for miles around 13,000 square miles, roughly the size of Maryland there is no radio signal to relieve the silence, no town to break up an empty plain with a horizon so horizontal that it fades into a mirage. Only the skittering of the occ
8、asional hardy gecko suggests that youre not the last vestige of life on a seared and waterless planet【这里的环境好像在给我们警示:一根断掉的风扇皮带或者是看到一只巨大的手舞足蹈的蜘蛛后的歇斯底里的大叫都可能会引发巨大的危险。但是在周围13,000平方公里(大概相当于马里兰的面积)以内的沙漠里,这里没有任何信号可以去打破这片沙漠的死寂,也没有城镇去充填这片空旷的土地,所有的一切都只能是幻想。偶尔会有一只壁虎飞掠过,它的出现才会让你觉得你并不是这个荒凉干涸的星球上最后的生命痕迹。】Such a f
9、orbidding panorama hardly seems the stuff of a compelling journey. But Namibia, a country of stark beauty and riveting contradictions, should be at the top of any serious travelers want-to-visit list. 【在这次迷人的旅程中似乎不应该出现这样可怕的景象。但是纳米比亚,这个充斥着荒凉美与迷人景象的国度,绝对应该是任何旅行者的旅行单上的首选。】The landscape is otherworldly,
10、 from the ocean of blood red crests along Dune Alley at Sossusvlei (pronounced SOSS-oo-vlay) to the gravity-defying rock formations and petrified forest of Damaraland, in the countrys center. Even beside the main highway, there are enough elephants, giraffes and springbok to satisfy those who cant i
11、magine a southern African trip without big game. 【这里的风景是超尘脱俗的,从索苏维来沙丘道边血红色浪头的海洋到纳米比亚中部达马拉兰地区由地心引力形成的岩化森林。甚至在主要的高速公路旁边,都有许多大象,长颈鹿和跳羚,这样的景象足以满足那些想在南非的旅行中尽情观赏珍稀动物的旅客。】And the mind-boggling juxtaposition of women draped in skins that covered animals a week earlier against shopping malls /offering a full
12、 selection of Ray-Bans, or of face powder ground in a mortar and pestle cheek by jowl with shiny Hummers, leads you into the heart of a modern Africa tangled by time, defined by the collision of centuries and traditions.【而且令人难以置信的是,你可以看到用动物皮毛遮着身体的部落女人们在逛商场,她们流连于卖有Ray-bans太阳眼镜,装有扑面粉的小缸以及一些现代产品的货柜之间。再
13、往前走,就会把你带入非洲现代文明的中心。在这里,你可以看到现代文明与传统文化的较量。】Namibia isnt easy, especially for travelers whose notion of a vacation is dashing from one sight to another, or for urbanites who need regular fixes of bright lights and noisy streets. Except for those with pockets deep enough to arrange chartered flights b
14、etween the dunes and the Damara homesteads, it demands patience with corrugated gravel roads and mile after mile of what poets are fond of calling terrible beauty.【纳米比亚不是一个舒适的地方,尤其是对那些希望一个景点接着一个景点观光的人来说,或者是习惯了城市的霓虹灯光和喧嚣街道的都市人。除了那些很有钱的人,他们可以租飞机游弋于沙丘和达马拉的家宅田园之间。尽管诗人们称沙丘和达马拉之间那条碎石路非常漂亮,但是要走完它却需要极大的耐心。】
15、“LOOK, a different kind of nothingness!” exclaimed my husband, Dennis, his New York candor more prosaic than poetic, as we drove around Namibia last January. The austere landscape had shifted from barren scrubland to enormous jumbles of rocks that looked as if God had forgotten to straighten them up
16、. 【“看,这是一种不一样的虚无!”我的丈夫丹尼大声地叫到。在我们于去年1月份驱车在纳米比亚旅行时,他那纽约人特有的直率甚至要比诗人表现地更淋漓尽致。从贫瘠的灌木丛林到巨大混乱的岩石群,这些原生态风景看起来就像是上帝忘记了整理一样。】Yet there is something beguiling about the bleakness of this place that you miss if you bop across the country by air, from warthog to lion, from sand spout to watering hole. Namibia
17、is as much about the environmental and human interstices between sites as about the sites themselves.【然而,如果你坐飞机穿过这个国家的话,你就会错过这种荒凉的美景:从疣猪到狮子、从沙流到水潭。 在不同的地方之间,纳米比亚更多的是关于环境和人之间的这种隔阂。】By far the most mesmerizing of those sites is in the northwest corner of the country, in Kunene. This is not tourist Afr
18、ica, which is fast becoming one gigantic game park, or the show Africa of tribesmen and women who dress up like their grandparents for visitors but go home and don jeans before heading out to the local disco.This is dusty, chaotic Africa, where donkey carts are more common conveyances than buses, wh
19、ere animals are killed for clothing as well as for food, and where words like globalization and the Internet have not yet entered the popular vocabulary. 【到目前为止纳米比亚最吸引人的地方是在它的西北部边上的库内内地区。这里不是非洲的观光区,它不是突然就变成了一个巨大的野生动物园,或者说这里部落的男男女女们故意穿上他们祖辈的衣服展示给游客们看,然后回到家以后就换上牛仔裤去当地的迪吧狂欢。(不是的,他们呈现在我们眼前的一切都是他们原原本本的生活
20、)这里是尘土飞扬,混乱的非洲,这里最常用的交通工具是驴车,而不是公共汽车;在这里,动物被猎杀,用来做衣服和食物;在这里,全球化和互联网还是个很陌生的词语。】All the paradoxes of modern Africa seem to be concentrated in that remote corner of Namibia, and they are at their most glaring inside the OK Grocer, on the edge of the dusty town of Opuwo, just 100 miles south of the Ango
21、lan border. There on a morning in late January, two Himba women, their breasts bared, their waists draped with multilayered goatskin miniskirts, ogled the rich German-style cream cakes on display. The glass of the showcase was already streaked with red from the mixture of fat, ash and ochre-colored
22、mud with which Himba woman coat their bodies and hair, their homemade version of Clarins Hydra-Wear. 【现代非洲文明的所有矛盾好像都集中于纳米比亚的那个偏远角落。在距离安哥拉边界南部100公里的Opuwo的一个尘土飞扬的小镇上有一个OK 杂货店,在这里,这些文明之间的冲突显得尤为突出。一月底的一个早上,在OK杂货店里,两个辛巴女人正垂涎地盯着货柜里诱人的德国奶油蛋糕,她们的胸部裸露在外面,下面穿着用好几层山羊皮做成的短裙。货柜的玻璃已经被脂肪,灰烬和赤色的泥浆混合而成的红色条纹隔起来。辛巴妇女也
23、用这种混合物来涂在身体和头发上,这相当于她们自制的Clarins Hydra-Wear。(Clarins 是法国的一个化妆品公司,主要经营护肤品和香水。)】In the adjacent aisle, a stout Herero matron examined the meager selection of vegetables. Decked out in her traditional garb a long-sleeved and long-skirted dress that could have been a costume for a Victorian period drama
24、 if not for the hat, an oversized, cloth-covered pan with what appeared to be a baguette sitting on top she culled disapprovingly through a bin of potatoes and harrumphed before she hiked up her prodigious skirts and walked out【在邻近的过道里,一个矮胖的赫雷罗妇女正在检查她刚挑到的蔬菜。她的打扮很传统她穿着一条完全可以作为维多利亚时期戏剧演出服的长袖长裙,头上戴着一个特
25、大号的平底布面帽子,看起来就像是头顶上顶了个法国棍子面包。她不以为然地在一筐马铃薯里面挑来挑去,鼻子里面哼哼了几声就提着她那夸张的长裙走出去了。】At the checkout counter, a Timba teenager waiting for the clerk to ring up a pile of cooking oil, salt and beans sported the beads and brassiere that distinguish her from her Himba cousins, although one of her breasts was hangi
26、ng out, whether as a fashion statement or because shed gotten up late, it was unclear. Behind her, a young white woman flicked her ponytail impatiently; all she was buying was a single jar of cocktail olives. 【在收银台,一个Timba少女正等着收银员给他捆扎一堆商品:食用油,盐和还挂着水珠的新鲜大豆。有没有戴胸罩是她和她表弟的唯一区别,尽管她的一个胸已经露了出来,不知道这是当地的一种时尚
27、呢,还是她早上起来太晚没有认真打理。在她身后,一个年轻的白种女人不耐烦地拨弄着她的马尾辫,因为她只买了一罐鸡尾酒橄榄。】Outside, two bull-necked Afrikaners sipped tea in the garden of the adjacent coffee shop, and a Himba man in a Cal State T-shirt and a two-panel skirt short and gathered in the front, long and straight in back distractedly herded goats down
28、 the main street while chatting on his cellphone. 【在杂货店外面,两个有着牛颈般粗脖子的非洲男人正在咖啡店旁边的花园里小口地品着茶;路边,一个辛巴男人,上身穿着一件加州风格的T恤,下身穿着两片布围成的裙子裙子前面短而紧,后面却又长又直他一边心烦意乱地沿着主街道赶着他的羊群,一边打着手提电话。】I seemed to be the only person in town who found the scene noteworthy.【在这个镇子上,我可能是唯一一个会去特别注意这个场景的人。(生活在这里的人早已经习以为常了)】On a contin
29、ent where centuries of European encroachments have inexorably eroded tradition, Africans who cling to outward manifestations of their culture are the rarest of sights. And theres perhaps nowhere in the region where outsiders can mingle with them more easily, more casually, than in Opuwo.【 那些在欧洲大陆上的国
30、家无情地用现代文明侵蚀着他们的传统文化,而这里的非洲人却坚持向外界展示他们的传统文明,这实在是很罕见的现象。比起在Opuwo,这就是为什么外面的人可以更轻松随意地与这里的人打成一片。】But Namibia is nothing if not unpredictable, and just a days drive from the OK Grocer, you can find yourself among meticulously coiffed Germans shopping for springbok-skin photo albums, handcrafted silver jew
31、elry encrusted with malachite or mandarin garnet, and elephant-hide belts in the elegant boutiques of Swakopmund, a surreal seaside town that feels like a cross between Brighton-by-the-Sea and Bavaria. 【但是纳米比亚是个变幻莫测的地方,从OK杂货店出发只需一天的车程,你就会发现你已经置身于扎着头巾的作风严谨的德国人之中,他们正在采购用跳羚皮制成的相簿、手工制作的镶着孔雀石或是石榴石的银饰珠宝,以
32、及斯瓦科普蒙德的高档服装店里的象皮皮带。在这个梦幻般的海滨小镇里,你会觉得自己正置身于一个有着海边城市布赖顿和巴伐利亚两种风格特征的一个地方。】For decades until 1914, Namibia was a German colony, South West Africa, and even 94 years after Germany lost it as the spoils of defeat in World War I, the Teutonic imprint on Swakop, as locals call the city, remains unmistakabl
33、e.The standard plats du jour are schnitzel and bratwurst; the architecture of the old prison, the train station, the jail and dozens of other structures is late 19th-century Munich; and the streets are so tidy that Kaiser Wilhelm, for whom the main avenue was named until the government changed it si
34、x years ago, would be proud.【在1914年前的几十年中,纳米比亚都是德国的殖民地,被称作“德属西南非洲”。日耳曼人在Swakop留下的烙印至今还不能被抹去,以至于在德国因在一战中战败而失去这块殖民地后94年的今天,当地人在叫这个城市的时候都不会叫错。当地标准的当日推荐菜是炸肉排和德国式小香肠;旧监狱,火车站,监狱和许多其他的建筑物都还保持着19世纪的慕尼黑风格;这里的街道都非常整洁,德国皇帝Kaiser Wilhelm曾用他的名字为这里的一条主街道命名。如果不是政府在六年前重新为这条街命名的话,以德国皇帝命名的这条主街道仍然会是当地人的骄傲。】The only cl
35、ear sign that the town is actually in Africa is the throng of black workers who pick up the trash before it can hit the ground. Blond children scoot around on bicycles, elderly German couples take their evening constitutionals along the waterfront and teenagers who look surprisingly like California
36、surfer dudes guide tourists through an utterly un-African extreme sports scene: sand boarding, sand sledding, sand skiing and sand sailing none of which includes a dune lift, so all of which demand repeated uphill slogs through the sand and the inhalation of lungfuls of Namibian dust.【在这里,唯一能分辨出这是个非
37、洲城镇的标志便是那些成群的黑人劳工,他们清理着那些快要掉到地上的垃圾。金发的孩子们骑着自行车飞驰而过、中年的德国夫妇沿着码头散步,像极了打扮的很花哨的加州冲浪运动员的青年们引领着游客们穿过完全没有一点非洲风格的极限运动场:沙滩冲浪,沙滩雪橇,沙滩滑雪和沙滩航行-每一个项目都离不开沙丘,而且所有的项目都会让你一次又一次地吸入纳米比亚的沙尘。】With its traffic lights, pubs and trendy restaurants, Swakop provides a delightful respite from the grinding isolation that is mo
38、st of the country. But the illusion of Europe embedded deep in the heart of Africa vanishes barely a mile from the center of town. 【在纳米比亚最难挨的莫过于与世隔绝的孤独感,然而Swakop的灯红酒绿以及时尚的餐馆给了游客们莫大的安慰。但是对非洲人而言,他们心中对于欧洲的神秘幻想在离开城镇中心以后就消失的干干净净了。】Minutes beyond the city limits, its hard to recall that chimera at all. Th
39、e scene becomes a panorama of desolation, of rocks and scrubby trees, lava fields and herds of goats. The occasional Damara and Herero homesteads bear no trace of the Germanic penchant for order; they are tiny mean huts cobbled together from sheet metal, elephant dung, car doors, truck canopies, str
40、aw and whatever else is at hand.【在离开市中心以后,人们就很难再去回想那个灯红酒绿的喧嚣场景了。周围变得越来越荒凉:岩石、矮小的树丛、熔岩地和成群的山羊。达马拉和赫雷罗地区的家宅房屋没有保留任何德国式的建筑风格,它们都是一些由金属片、大象的粪便、破烂的车门、大卡车的遮蓬布、稻草以及任何可以找到的东西堆积而成的矮小而简陋棚屋。】This is a wild land of enormous skies, nomadic herders and vast farms with the thinnest possible veneer of modernity. Fo
41、r decades, the Skeleton Coast, north of Swakopmund, buffeted by impenetrable fog, perilous cross currents and treacherous reefs, has been a graveyard for ships, and Kaokoland, the ruggedly inaccessible northern mountains shrouded by the mists of the Atlantic, wasnt fully explored until the second ha
42、lf of the 20th century. 【这里是一片荒野之地无边无际的天空,成群的游牧者和没有任何现代设施的大农场。 几十年来,斯瓦科普德北部的海岸一直在与难以渗透的浓雾,危险的交叉气流和骇人的暗礁作着抗争。这里的海岸已经成了无数船只的坟墓。卡奥科兰,这个被大西洋薄雾遮盖住了的北部险峻高山,直到20世纪中叶以后才被完全开发出来。】Where Namibia meets both Angola and the sea, hunters and gatherers still wander remote mountains. In a country twice the size of C
43、alifornia but with just two million inhabitants, the major cities, Swakopmund and Windhoek the capital, feel like prefabricated alien entities plopped down without any local roots.【 在纳米比亚与安哥拉和大海的交界处,仍然有许多猎人和收集者迷失在那些遥远的大山里。纳米比亚主要的两个城市斯瓦科普德和温得和克纳米比亚首都,它们的面积是加州的两倍,然而却只有两百万居民。这里就好像是为外国人特别预制的一个没有任何本国人的城市
44、。】EXPLORING the back roads on our own in a rented 4 x 4 truck, we found ourselves drag racing with ostriches and discovering that despite their awkward gait, they usually win. And we wound up eating lunch at the old German fort at Sesfontein that looks so much like part of a movie set for a film lik
45、e “Beau Geste” that I couldnt help but wonder whether Gary Cooper, Ray Milland and their pals from the French Foreign Legion were about to ride up on their camels.【我们驾着我们的4×4卡车行驶在回去的路上,发现我们居然在和鸵鸟飙车而且我们发现除了鸵鸟的动作稍显笨拙外,它们可是一路领先。稍后我们在位于Sesfontein的旧德国军事堡垒里吃了午饭。这个地方像极了影片“Beau Geste”(这是P.C Wren 在1924年
46、写的一部探险小说,曾多次被拍成电影。Beau Geste是个法语词,意识是一个优雅的姿势)中的场景。我忍不住地想着Gary Cooper(美国男电影演员),Ray Milland(威尔士男演员兼导演)和他们的法国外籍志愿军兄弟们是不是在这里骑上了他们的骆驼开始了他们的探险之旅。】In Damaraland, we wended our way around the Brandberg, Namibias highest mountain (8,440 feet), and lingered at the gallery of 6,000-year-old San petroglyphs at
47、Twyfelfontein. Twyfelfontein If youre as lucky as we were, a desert-adapted elephant will saunter by before you check in at a luxurious lodge where the wine is always at a perfect temperature, and a much-needed massage may be available. 【在达马拉兰,我们绕着Brandberg(纳米比亚艾龙戈区的一个选区)一直前行,这里有纳米比亚最高的山(8,440英尺),然后
48、在的壁画馆逗留了一阵,(这个壁画发现于1920年,已经有6,000多年的历史了。)在Twyfelfontein,如果你也和我们一样幸运的话,在你入住豪华宾馆前,你可以看到能在沙漠里行走的大象从旁边经过。这家宾馆葡萄酒的温度总是刚刚好,如果时间允许的话,你还可以做个按摩。】Namibia might have a lot of nothingness, but that nothingness can be viewed with sundowners from the verandas of any of dozens of high-end lodges and tented camps o
49、r at one of the plethora of guest farms that provide a glimpse into what feels like the last redoubt of white colonial Africa. 【在纳米比亚,大多数时候你可能会觉得很空虚寂寥,但正是这种难得的空虚让你可以在暮后在任何高级旅馆、帐篷屋里或者是好客的农场主提供的多余的客房里尽情地享受小酌带来的乐趣。在这些地方,你都可以感受到没有受到白人殖民文化影响下的最单纯的非洲文化气息。】While the game-viewing at Etosha National Park and
50、 along the Botswananborder is among the best in southern Africa, Namibia is one of the few countries where visitors are likely to see serious game outside of a park. So you dont merely check off animals or the sights marked in guidebooks as “highlights.” 【在南非,Etosha国家公园(纳米比亚西北部的库内内地区的一个国家公园)和博茨瓦纳边界是
51、观赏野生动物最好的地方。在纳米比亚,游客们更喜欢在公园以外的地方地观赏野生动物。所以你大可不必在你的旅行指南上特别标示出你想去的地方或是想看的野生动物。(因为在纳米比亚的很多地方,你都随处可见平时难得一见的野生动物。)】You can be waylaid by the unexpected baboon sitting atop a fence post by the side of the road, by the odd shovel-mouthed lizard, or by the huge haystacklike homes of sociable weaver birds. A
52、fter a week, it felt ordinary to spot an elephant tusk as we drove down the road or to glimpse a giraffe chomping on a tree when we pulled over for a sandwich or ran into town for milk. 【当你走在路上会有很多动物跟你打招呼,像坐在路边栅栏上的狒狒、古怪的扁嘴蜥蜴或者是巨大的干草堆一样的房子里飞出来的友善的织巢鸟。一周以后,你就会发现当你驱车走在路上的时候看到一个象牙或是在你停车下来吃三明治或跑去镇上买牛奶的时候
53、瞟见一头长颈鹿正在啃树叶的时候,你已经不会感到很惊讶了。】But when I dream of Namibia, it is not of the Big Five, or the little antelopes and warthogs, but of the OK Grocer. As I wandered out of it on my first day in Opuwo, my mouth still agape from the richness of clanging cultures, a Himba woman approached me, covetously eyei
54、ng the sleeveless short dress Id bought at Banana Republic and offering to sell me bits and pieces of her own outfit a necklace or two, a beaded ankle bracelet, a woven container of the ochre mixture she smothers on her hair. 【但是当我梦想着纳米比亚的时候,第一个想到的不是Big Five(指南非的五大危险动物:犀牛、美洲豹、黑色大水牛、大象和狮子),或者小跳羚羊和疣猪,
55、而是OK杂货店。我在Opuwa的第一天,当我看到哪些叮叮当当的东西的时候,我还是会觉得很惊讶。那天,一个辛巴女人朝我走了过来,垂涎地望着我在Banana Republic(Banana Republic 是美国的一个时装连锁店,它是Mel 和Patrica Zieglar于1978年成立的一个以旅游为主题的服装公司,1983被GAP集团收购。Banana Republic在美国拥有超过500家的专卖店,现在他们也打算在其他国家开店。)买的一条无袖短裙,然后她便开始向我兜售她身上佩戴的一些小饰品一条项链(也有可能是两条),一条珠子串成的足环,还有她头上戴着的一个用赭石泥土编成的一个容器。】I w
56、as more covetous than she was. I would get an original; she would wind up with off the rack.。But even as I purchased a fabulous ankle bracelet made of metal beads wrought from melted wire, I flashed back to the women inside the supermarket and their obvious hunger for the most untraditional of cream
57、 cakes, at least in Himba terms, and couldnt help but wonder how soon the woman in front of me would trade in her goatskins for clothes like mine. 【我觉得当时的我更垂涎于那个辛巴女人身上的东西。因为如果我和她的买卖成功的话,我就可以得到最原生态的东西,而她呢,也能得到现成的裙子。但是尽管我买到了一条用很多金属线做成的金属珠子串成的漂亮的足环,但我还没有满足。我飞快地跑到超市里的那个女人那里。看的出来这些辛巴女人很喜欢那些奶油蛋糕。我忍不住地想着我前
58、面的那个女人什么时候会想我一样卖掉她的山羊皮做的衣服。】Go soon to Namibia. The rhinos will always be there, but Banana Republic might be as well.【赶快去纳米比亚吧!犀牛们会一直在那里,但是Banana Republic也会一直在那里。】A WILD LAND 荒野之地For help planning a trip to Namibia, or anywhere else in southern Africa, I recommend Colin Bristow of Ecological Africa
59、 (263-9-61189; ), who is also an excellent guide and pilot. He charges about $300 an hour of flight. 【如果你打算去纳米比亚或是南非的其他国家旅行,我推荐Ecological Africa的 Colin Bristow,他不仅是一个优秀的向导还是一个优秀的飞行员。他的飞机每小时收费大概是300块。(263-9-61189; ) 】WHEN TO GO 什么时候去最合适?Many say that the Southern Hemisphere fall the dry season is the best time for game. But generally speaking, April through October is fine. 【许多人说应该在南半球的秋季去季节干
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