纺 织 材 料 学第12章 织物及其分类

第十二章

织物及其分类本章知识点：1、织物的概念、分类2、机织物、针织物、非织造布的定义、

分类、用途3、织物加工原理织物(Fabric):

是把纤维集合在一起制成的较大、较薄的平板状物体。织物的现代定义是纤维，或纱线，或纤维与纱线按一定规律构成的片状(或展开后成片状)

的集合物。织物的定义■Fabricclassifications■

According

to

market■

According

to

manufacturing

technology■

According

to

weight■

According

to

finishing

conditions

Introductionto

FabricsIntroductionto

Fabrics■

According

to

market■

Apparel■

Domesticorhome

furnishing■

Industrial3■

Accordingto

manufacturingtechnology■

Wovens■

Knits■

Braids■

Nonconventional

or

nonwoven●distinguishable可区别的，可辨别的，易分辨的通常把经纱与纬纱成直角交织而形成的织物叫机织物或梭织物。Woven

fabrics

aremade

by

interlacingtwosets

of

yarns

at

rightanglestoeach交织other.The

lengthwiseyarns

are

knownas

warp

yarns

or

ends

,whilethewidth-经纱

/

经纱wise

yarns

are

knownas

filling

yarns

or

picks

.The

lengthwise

edgesof

thefabric纬纱

/

纬纱are

the

selvages

.The

material.selvage

is

usuallyeasily

distinguishable

from

therestof

the布边

WOvens warp

yarnsweft

yarnHaness综

框Fig.10-1

SimplifiedHeddles综丝Reed

钢

筘Shuttle梭

子

Fillingyam

纬纱sketchof

a

twoharnessesloomWarpyarn

经

纱Clothroll

卷

布

辊Cloth

布经

轴Knitted

fabrics

may

be

described

as

structures

produced

by

the

interloopings

of

相互串套yarns.In

actual

construction

of

the

fabric,loops

are

formed;then

new

loops

aredrawn

through

those

previously

formed.The

construction

addition

ofnew

loopscreatestheknittedfabric.Knittedloopsareusually

referredto

as

stitcheswhen线图they

are

pulled

through

another

loop.

定义：把纱制成线圈，再将线圈连接起来

而制成的织物称为针织物knittingTherearetwomainclassificationsof

knittedfabrics:weftknitsandwarpknits

(Fig.11-1,Fig.11-2).Each

uses

different

kinds

of

machinery

for

producing

fabricandeachproducesdifferenttypesof

fabrics.Examplesof

weftknitfabricsarethoseused

in

sweaters

andhosiery;examples

of

warpknit

fabrics

are

thoseusedintricotforlingerie.Handknitted

is

a

weft

knitted

procedure.Fig.11-1

Weft

knitfabric

Fig.11-2Warp

knit

fabric经编针织物3■特点：蓬松柔软，

富于延伸性和弹

性，透气性好，不易折皱，舒适

合

体

。应用：

内衣、外

衣、运动服、袜

子、手套等，

特

别是要求松软、轻薄质地的产品，

如内衣、T

恤、运动衣、羊毛衫、

袜子、手套、围

巾

等

。Braids(knotwork)由纱线通过多种方法、包括用结节互相连接或钩连而成的制品，如网、花边等；ISO9002

赋予非织造材料的定义如下(用原文表示):A

manufacturedsheet,web

or

batt

of

directionally

or

randomlyorientated

fibers,bondedbyfriction,and/or

cohesionand/or

adhesion,excludingpaper(seenote)and

productswhicharewoven,knitted,tufted,stitch-bondedincorporating

bindingyarnsorfilaments,or

feltedbywet-

milling,whether

or

not

additionally

needled.The

fibers

may

be

of

natural

or

man-made

origin.They

may

be

staple

orcontinuousfilaments

or

beformed

in

site.Nonconventional

ornonwOvenINDA(International

Nonwovensand

DisposableAssociation)赋予非织造材料的定义如下(用原文表示):Nonwoven

fabrics

are

broadly

defined

as

sheet

orweb

structures

bonded

together

by

entangling

fiber

or

filaments

(and

by

perforating

films)mechanically,thermally

orchemically.They

are

flat,porous

sheets

that

are

madedirectly

from

separate

fibers

or

from

molten

plastic

or

plasticfilm.They

are

not

made

by

weaving

or

knitting

and

do

notrequire

converting

the

fibers

to

yarn.ASTM

赋予非织造材料的定义如下(用原文表达):A

structureproducedbybondingof

mechanical,chemical,thermal,

orsolvent

means

and

thecominationthereof.Thetermdoesnot

include

paperorfabrics

thatarewoven,knitted,tuftedorthose

made

by

wool

or

other

felting

processes.聚合物挤压成网法纺粘法机械法化学法热粘合法熔喷法膜裂法干

法化学粘合法浸渍法喷洒法泡沫法印花法溶剂粘合法机械加固针刺法水刺法缝编法湿园网法化学粘合热粘合法热熔法热轧法法斜网法热粘合非织造材料1:Random-laid

(air

laid)web层压缝编点熔接4:Web

bonded

by

low-meltingfibres5:Web

bonded

by

spot

welding4:Stitch-bondedyarns(sample)1:Random-laid(airlaid)web粘合纤维网3:Adhesive

bonded

web■

Accordingtoweight■

LightMedium■

HeavyIntroductionto

Fabrics织物类别棉织物毛织物丝织物精梳毛织

物粗梳毛织

物轻薄型<0.25<0.40<1.10<0.14中厚型0.25-0.400.40-0.601.10-1.600.14-0.28厚重型>0.40>0.60>1.60>0.28棉、毛、丝织物的厚度与类型(单位：

mm)

Accordingtofinishingconditions■

Greige,gray

or

grey(坯布，本色布)■

Finished

(处理织物，成品布)—

织

布编织物针

织

物机

织

物织编织物编

织

物针

织

物机

织

物Unconventional

fabrics(特种织物)特种

织物平面型

结构立体型

结构Triaxial

weave(3)

(4)(5)几种空芯机织物的截面图(1)(2)→Warp(x)Angle

interlock

Filling(y)MultilayerfabricsWarpinterlockZ3D

orthogonal图4四轴向经编织物结构图立体编织物xy(3)几种三维正交非织造物的结构(2)(1)按织物染整方式：原色、漂白、染色、色织、印花、整理等织物按织物材质风格：平整、绉类、凹凸起皱、凸条、光感、暗淡、粗犷、细腻、柔软、硬挺、

薄透、厚重、质实、起毛、起绒等织物民族传统织物其它