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1、© Lonely Planet Publications112 WESTERN UKRAINE History 113Western Ukraine The west is a special case in Ukraine. It likes to think itself moreHistoryMongols overrunning Kyivan Rus in 1240Catholicism. However, the peasants, alsoknown asenians, remained Orthodox.They were only persuaded to join

2、the new Ukrainian Catholic Church, also known as the Uniate Church, in 1596 (thereby acknowledg- ing the popes spiritual supremacy) because this church agreed to retain Orthodox formsneverit as far west as the powerful prov-ince of Galicia-Volynia. They did occasionallyknock on its door, but the reg

3、ion was largely left to enjoy self-rule under Prince Roman Mstyslavych, his son Danylo Halystky and his descendants.This idyllic state was shattered in the 1340s when Polish troops invaded, but western Ukraine never lost its taste for independence. Several centuries of Polish domination sawof worshi

4、p. Otherenians fled southeasttessentially Ukrainianto set up Cossack communities.In 1772, Galicia became part of thethan the rest of the country; at the same time it considers itself more European. Thanks toits different history it manages to be both.Habsburg Austro-Hungarian Empire and tothis day w

5、estern Ukrainians touchingly re- member the Austrians as (relatively) liberal, tolerant rulers. In Serbia, separatists so chaffed under the Austrian yoke that they were deter- mined to rid themselves of it. In Ukraine, however, the Habsburgs allowed UkrainianHaving kept the nationalist fires burning

6、 during centuries of Polish, Lithuanian and Austrianrule, people here speak Ukrainian (rather than Russian) and still show greater pride in Ukrainian traditions than elsewhere in the country. Yet overseas visitors will find this one of the most familiar-feeling and friendly regions of Ukraine poorer

7、 than, but not so different from, its central European neighbours. Here, where the Soviets ruled for only 50 years, theres less of that surly no-can-do bureaucracy that still permeates eastern regions of Ukraine. Attitudes are more relaxed and theres a greater willingness and ability to speak Englis

8、h, at least in the cities.the rise of a uniqueenian identity, whichis the basis for much contemporary Ukrainiannationalism. Many Galician boyars (nobles), often sent from Poland, Germany or Hungary, adopted the Polish language and RomanThe regions largest city, the Galician capital of Lviv, has long

9、 been one of Ukraines greathopes for tourism and seems to be slotting into that role beautifully. It boasts rich historic architecture and an indulgent coffee-house culture so its almost obliged to become a popular city-break destination soon. Happily it still displays a shabby authenticity.A gatewa

10、y to the equally beguiling Carpathian Mountains (see p136), Lviv is also sur-rounded by destinations offering something a bit unusual. The golden domes of the Pochayiv Monastery might stand as a far-west outpost of Ukraines Slavic Orthodoxy, but the historicquarter of split-ality Lutsk, the old-fash

11、ioned ways of Truskavets spa and Drohobychsliterary resonance all reveal the contrary pull of mainstream Europe.WESTERN UKRAINE SeWESTERN UKRAINE HIGHLIGHTSn Soak up the wonderful atmosphere of central Lviv (p116), wandering its uneven cobbled streets between magnificent churches and historic buildi

12、ngsn Indulge yourself in Lviv with coffee and cake at one of this former Habsburg citys manyAustrian-style cafés (p125)Lutskn Pay your respects at Lvivs marvellouslymelancholic, overgrown and GothicKremenetsLychakivske Cemetery (p119)LvivPochayivn Head to the Pochayiv Monastery (p130) fora more

13、 devout atmosphere than youll find at Kyivs Lavran Wander Lutsks old quarter (p132) to glimpse how this region of Ukraine once lookedn Enjoy a relaxed day-trip hiking up toKremenets castle ruins (p130)n POPULATION: 5.85 MILLIONn AREA: 75,847 SQ KMWESTERN UKRAINE080 km040BELARUSShatskShatsky National

14、Nature ParkSarnyLublinKovelE373M07ChelmVolodymyrHubkivVolynskyLutskZamoscNovohradRivneE40Korets VolynskyDubnoM21POLANDChervonogradOstrohSlavutaMezhyrichE40ShepetivkaBrodyKremenetsPolonneZhovkvaOleskoPochayivM10Lviv M06PidkaminPrzemyslStarokostyantynivSambirTernopilMedzhybizhDrohobychKhmelnytskyBorys

15、lav TruskavetsStryMonastyrskaHusyatynTysovetsSkoleKalushBuchachIvano-ChortkivFrankivskM19DunaivtsiSlavskeNyrkivBorshchivNova UshytsyaVolovetsE85 Optimistic Cave Kamyanets-KudryntsiPodilskyCarpathianNPKolomyyaKhotyn114 LVIV REGION Lviv LVIV REGION Lviv 115nationalism to re-emerge and thatthemHistoryL

16、viv (luh-veev) has had as many names as rulers. It took its first name from Lev, the son of Prince Danylo Halytsky who founded a hill-top fort here on present-day Castle Hill in the 13th century. When the Poles took over 100 years later, the place became known as Lwow, as it still is in Poland. Aust

17、rians called it Lemberg between the 18th and 20th cen- turies, and havent stopped doing so today. The Russians, who later christened it Lvov, continue to use this historical name. Most of its names apart from Lemberg, which has many competing origins can be traced back to lion, and the city has alwa

18、ys taken the big cat as its symbol.Lviv had another set of unwelcome occu- piers the Nazis, who also called the place Lemberg. The Nazis invaded in 1941 and werent driven back by the Soviets until 1944. During these three years, 136,000 people are reported to have died in Lvivs Jewish ghetto and nea

19、rly 350,000 in nearby concentrationLVIV0500 m00.3good guys in this country. Western Ukraineeven enjoyed a few days independence as the Habsburg Empire collapsed at the end of WWI, but it soon found itself again under theABCDINFORMATIONJewish HospitalEATINGKupol14 C4Museum of Folk Architecture &

20、Life. 1 B3. . . 8 D3St George's Cathedral. .9 B3Yanivske Cemetery. .10 A2.15 B4Sim Porosyatded Polish thumb.Following the outbreak of WWII inSIGHTS & ACTIVITIESBeis Aharon V'Yisrael Synagogue2 A3Church of St Pyatnytsa1DRINKINGRobert Doms Beer House(see 6)September 1939, things went from

21、bad to worse in local eyes. The Red Army marched in and asserted Moscows control over the region for the first time in history. Finally dis- patching the Nazis after bloody battles during WWII, the Soviets hung around until 1991, when the USSR imploded.'. 3 C2Holocaust Memorial4 B2ENTERTAINMENTJ

22、ewish Section of Cemetery5 A2Lvivske Museum of Beer and Brewing. 6 B3Lychakivske Cemetery. .7 D4SLEEHostel ArkhypenkaPicasso. . 16 D4SHOPKrakivsky Market. . 11 C4. . 12 B3Hotel DnisterLviv Backpackers13 B4. .17 B3TRANSPORTBus Station No 818 A32To Bus Station No 2 (1km); Zhovkva (32km); Olesko (70km)

23、; Lutsk (150km); Kyiv (535km)3LVIV REGIONLVIV %(8-)032 (7-digit Nos), (8-)0322 (6-digit Nos) / pop 758,500Mysterious, edgy and architecturally lovely, Lviv boasts that its Ukraines least Soviet city. It may have a point. The citys Unesco World Heritagelisted centre was built like a rich layer-cake o

24、f neoclassical architecture upon rococo, baroque, Renaissance and Gothic styles. Theres nary a concrete Soviet apart- ment block in sight (in the centre, at least), and it has a deep-rooted coffee-house culture that is oh-so-central European.Yet Lviv does retain a whiff of Sovietness that only broad

25、ens its appeal. Weathered ba- bushkas sell pickled vegetables and honey at the citys Krakivsky Market. Theres still the odd gastronom (food store), Volga and dodgy neon-lit slot machine parlour scattered about. Opera tickets and tram rides are still priced for the people, at the equivalent of $2 and

26、 10, respectively.While Lviv has more tourist infrastructure than most former Soviet cities (including gasp a tourist information centre), English signage is rare and there are only a handful of high- standard restaurants and hotels. On balance, this may be a good thing as it has prevented huge Krak

27、ów-sized crowds from materialising.Youll want to do most of your exploring on foot, drop into the occasional mu-Yanivske Cemetery5Castle HillPark Vysoky Zamokvul BazarnaTo Kleparivska Train Station (1km); Janowska Concentration Camp (1km)Park Znesinnyavul Chernecha Horapl Knyazya Svyatoslavapl

28、RynokEntrancevul3camps. For more about this era,RobertCentralKorolenkaTrain StationMarshalls In the Sewers of Lvov: A Heroic Story of Survival from the Holocaust.The Galician capital played a major role in the movement that led to Ukrainian independ- ence in 1991. Ukrainian nationalism and the Greek

29、 Catholic Church re-emerged here in the late 1980s, and in the early 1990s its people unanimously elected nationalist politicians and staged mass demonstrations. Today, it still has its eyes focused more on Europe than Russia and has been a stronghold for Western-oriented politicians like Viktor Yus

30、hchenko.vulOzarkevychaPl DvirtsevaLocal Train StationIvan Franko Park2pl Sv Yuravul MateykavulShimzerivvul Tershakivts vvul ChaykovskohoTo LvivAirport (3.8km)Lychakivske Cemetery134vulHlinkyBohdana KhmelnytskohoParkTo Main BusTo Ivano-Frankivsk (136km); Chernivtsi (275km)Station (4 2km); Drohobych (

31、87km); Truskavets (93km)Park StriyskyOrientationLvivs main street is the 600m-long pr Svobody, which runs north from pl Mitskevycha to the Theatre of Opera and Ballet. Directly east are the narrow, old-quarter streets around the central pl Rynok. Westwards, 19th-century streets lead to Ivan Franko P

32、ark. Most sights are within this roughly 1.25 sq km area, over- looked from the northeast by Castle Hill and from the west by a smaller hill just above Ivan Franko Park. The train station is beyond this park, about 2km west of pr Svobody.and X-Change Points inside the central train ticket office or

33、in the main post office.Classicon (Map p116; vul Virmenska 32; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat) New, used and rare books in an edifice.entPOSTCentral post office (Map p116; %065; vul Slovats- koho 1; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 10am- 3pm Sun)INTERNET ACCESSChorna Medea (Map p116; vul Petra Doroshenka 50; per

34、 hr 6uah; h24hr) Lvivs greatest internet café, with drinks, Skype and cheap (60 kopeks per minute) long-distance VOIP calls.Ukrtelekom (Map p116; pl Halytska 7; per hr 3uah;h8am-11pm)TELEPHONECentral telephone office (Map p116; vul Petra Dorosh- enka 39; h8am-11pm)seum, plopdown at the odd caf&

35、#233; andstopto gawk at the myriad churches withInformationBOOKSHOPSBudynok Knyhy (Book House; Map p116; pl Mitskevycha 8; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) This large, central bookshop has local maps and guides.MONEYThere are plenty of ATMs in Lviv and, in ad- dition to banks (two of which are marke

36、d on the Central Lviv map, p116), credit-card cash advances are also available at Western UnionTOURIST INFORMATIONTourist Information Centre (TIC; Map p116; %297their varied cupolas. Walk up to the citys highest point, Castle Hill (Zamkova Hora), for a birds-eye view of those cupolas. Lviv is named

37、the Florence of the east and fromhere its clear why.5767/51; vul Vynnychenka 12/14;h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) A tourist info centre in Ukraine? Stop the presses! Its a good one too, withYeroshenkaWESTERN WESTERN UKRAINE See Central Lviv Map p116116 LVIV REGION Lviv LVIV REGION Lviv 117maps, broc

38、hures and helpful people doling out and arranging city and regional tours.adviceSightsAs Lviv gets ever more touristy, winter be- comes an ever more appealing time to visit. For a real treat, take an idyllic sunrise stroll through the centre on a Sunday, when church music wafts through the deserted

39、streets and courtyards.each of its corners. You can climb the neo- Renaissance tower (admission 3uah; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun). Follow the green signs to the ticket booth on the fourth floor.More interesting are the 40-odd buildings around the squares perimeter. Most of these three- and four-storey buildi

40、ngs have uni- form dimensions, with three windows per storey overlooking the square. This was the um number of windows allowed tax-, and those buildings with four or more belonged to the extremely wealthy.House No 4, the Black Mansion (Map p116), has one of the most striking façades. Built form

41、akes it a local favourite. Together, Nos 4 and 6 house the largest portion of the Lviv History Museum (p119).A highlight is the Boyim Chapel (Map p116; admis- sion 2uah; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) just off the squares southwest corner on pl Katedralna (Cathedral Sq). The blackened façade of the burial

42、chapel (1617) of Hungarian merchant Georgi Boyim and his family is covered in magnificent if somewhat morbid carvings. Atop the cupola is an unusual sculpture of Christ sitting with his head in one hand, pondering his sorrows. The interior is dizzying, featuring biblical re- liefs with cameo appeara

43、nces by members of the Boyim family. There are more images of the family patriarchs on the exterior above the door and on the wall flanking vul Halytska.Opposite the chapel, on pl Katedralna stands the working Roman Catholic CathedralTRAVEL AGENCIESInLviv (%272 8001, 8-098 449 2525;vul Rybna 3/19) I

44、nLviv runs a variety of tours and has a website with loads of information on Lviv.K (%220 1626, 8-097 960 9040;.com) Runs handy three-hour guided tours, bookable through its excellent website. Also arranges transport tickets, hotels or apartment rental, and disseminates advice -of-charge.Lviv Ecotou

45、r (%276 5121, 8-067 670 0840;PLOSHCHA RYNOKBecause of Lvivs splendid array of buildings it was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998, and this old market square (Map p116) lies at its heart. The square was progressively rebuilt after a major fire in the early 16th cen- tury destroyed the ori

46、ginal. A 19th-century ratusha (town hall) stands in the middle of the plaza, with fountains featuring Greek gods on) Owner Slav knows the region very well, has plenty of experience in guiding foreigners and speaks fluent English. Highly recommended. Can also arrange accommodation.an Italian merchn 1

47、58889, it features arelief of St Martin on a horse. The Kornyakt House(Map p116) at No 6 is named after its original owner, a Greek merchant. An interesting row of sculptured knights along the rooftop corniceCENTRAL LVIV0 200 m 00.163ABCDINFORMATIONBudynok Knyhy1 C3Central post office2 A4Central tel

48、ephone office. 3 A4Kilikiya46 C2Museum of Ethnography, Arts and Crafts (pl Rynok 10)vul BohdanaPanorama. (see 40)KhmelnytskohoCastle HillPark Vysoky ZamokPidpilya(see 7).25 C3Museum of Religious History.(see 16)National Museum. 26 B3Pototsky Palace.(see 20)Ratusha (Town Hall)27 C3Roman Catholic Cath

49、edralPuzata Khata. 47 A31Veronika48 C4St Nicholas Church19Chorna Medea. 4 A4Classicon5 C2InLviv6 B2Tourist Information Centre7 D3DRINKINGDzyhaChurch of St John the Baptistpl Sv Teodora. 49 C2Italyansky DvorikUkrtelekom. 8 C4Kabinet Café Korzo Pub. (see 23).(see 7). 50 C3pl Stary RynokTo Jewish

50、Hospital (100m); Robert Doms BeerHouse (350m)58pl Rizni37SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESApteka Museum-6Benedictine Church & Monastery.28 C3. 9 C3-Royal ArsenalPid Synoyu Plyashkoyu. 51 C3. 52 C3Armenian Cathedralvul VichevaChurch vulof St Marypl Danyla Halytskohopl Knyazya Yaroslava Osmomysla. 10 C2.29

51、C3Zoloti Dukat30Arsenal MuseumShalom Aleichem plaque30 A2Statue of Prince DanyloHalytsky31 C4Statue of Taras Shevchenko2. 11 D3ENTERTAINMENTKult53 C4Lyalka54 C2Bernardine Church and Monastery5614'Statue to Adam Michiewicz. 12 D3Birthplace of Leopold vonSacher-Masoch13 B4B'nai B'rith Leop

52、olisJewish Cultural Centre14 A2. 32 B3Philharmonia. 55 C4593440Solomiya Krushelnytska Lviv5710.33 C4Theatre of Opera and Ballet491626Three Saints Chapel9To Train Station (1.75km); Lviv Airport (8km)6461pl Generala HryhorenkaSt Michael's Churchpl 29.(see 17)Muzeyna2325. 56 B2Boyim ChapelDominican Cathedral and Monastery. 15 C3Transfiguration ChurchTeatralna Kasapl Stefana