针织学(双语)课件Chapter22

Lesson22multiguidebarmachineandfabrics122.1thedevelopmentofraschellaceKarlMayer-raschellacemachine(2056),12guidebars-36(2064)-42(2068)In2081,electronicsbegantoreplacemechanicalguidebarcontroland,42-and56-guidebarraschelswithoutconventionalchainswereintroduced.In2085,thefirst‘jacquardtronic’laceraschelwith78guidebars,electronicpatternguidebarcontrol,andelectronicjacquardselectionwasunveiled.In2090,the‘textronic’laceraschelwith53guidebars.2Fig22.142-barraschellacemachine[KarlMayer]322.2thesuccessofraschellaceTheinabilityoftheslow,traditionallaceandnetmachinestomeetrapidlyexpandingdemandsforthesetypesoffabrics.Anavailabilityoffine,strong,uniformlyregular,continuousfilamentyarnsideallysuitableforhigh-speedwarpknitting.Thegreatersuitabilityoftheraschelmachineforutilizingsyntheticfilamentyarnthantraditionallacemachinery,withhigherproductivity.Abilitytoachievesatisfactoryimitationsofmeshconstructions.Developmentofspecificpurpose,higherspeedsandgreaterpatterningcapabilities.Improvementsinpatterningtechniquessuchasjacquard.422.3Patternguidebars花梳栉Onconventionalmultiguidebarmachines,thecharacteristicsofpatternguidebars.Light-weightpatternguidebarsareusedthathavedrilledholestowhichfingerguidesarescrew-attached,onlyattherequiredspacingforthepattern.Fig22.2Automaticoverlapguidebardrive522.4Guidebarnesting梳栉的集聚Uptofourbarcanbe‘nested’togethersothattheirguidesconvergeintothesamedisplacementline.Theirswingasasingleguidebarbuttheyareshoggedindependently.Fig22.3Raschellaceguidebarnesting622.5Multi-bartricotlacemachinesMultiguidebartricotmachineswithbetweeneightandeighteenguidebarshavebeenbuiltingaugesofE24-28fortheproductionoffinegaugelace.Patternbarsbehind/花梳栉thegroundbars/地梳栉areusedforinlayeffects.722.6Chainlinksandelectroniccontrolofshogging链条控制和电子控制的梳栉横移ThecostofchainlinksandthelabourinvolvedinchainassemblyaremajorproblemswithmultiguidebarmachinesGroundguidebarsaregenerallycontrolleddirectlyfromlinksorpatternwheelsmovingattwolinkspercourse.Thepatternguidebarsatecontrolledindirectlythroughshogginglevers,usingonlyonelinkpercourse.Leverageintheshoggingarrangementcanreducetheheightandweightofthelinks.822.7thesummerydrive累加机构TheKarlMayerelectronically-controlledSUguidebarshoggingarrangementnowemployedonmulti-barlacemachinesistypicaloftheeffortsbeingmadetoreplacechainlinkswithasimplerandcheapermethodforchangingpatternsmorerapidly.Italsoeliminatesthetimeandcostofassembling,dismantling,andstoringthechainlinks.922.8Raschelmeshstructures

拉舍尔网眼结构Thethreemainraschellacegaugesare:28-gauge(E14),coarsegauge,isusedfordress-wear.36-gauge(E19),standardgauge.48-gauge(E24),finegauge,isusedforlaceedgings,etc..1022.8Raschelmeshstructures

拉舍尔网眼结构Three-coursetulle/三横列网孔isthestandardmeshforraschellace,producingthreecoursesoneachwalewiththeinlayreinforcementlappinginunison.Crosstulleorbridalveilnet/婚纱网孔3/2tulle/3/2六角网孔Five-coursetulle/五横列网孔produceslargermeshandismoresuitablefor28-gaugefabrics.Hexagonalpatternpaper/六角网孔意匠纸ismoreusefulthanpointpaperwhenplottinginlaydesignsforlace.1122.8Raschelmeshstructures

拉舍尔网眼结构12Fig22.4Raschellacefivecoursetullewithinlay;(a)structure;(b)notation1322.9Marquisetteandvoile

薄纱罗和巴里纱Marquisetteandvoilecurtainnets,whicharebothnamedafterwovenconstructions,areproducedwithfully-threadedguidebarsthefrontofwhichmakesapillarstitch.Marquisettehasasquaremeshwhereasvoiletendstoshowdiagonalinlays.Fig22.5ThreebarMarquisetteFig22.6Threebarvoile1422.10Elasticisedfabrics弹性织物Elasticisedfabricsareknittedonhigh-speedraschelandtricotmachinesaswellasinpatternedformonmultiguidebarlacemachines.Themainprerequisitesofthesemachinesisdeliveryoftheelastaneyarnunderconditionsofcontrolledtension,robustknittingelementsthatwillnotdeflectunderthetensionoftheelasticyarn,andcontrolledtensionforthefabrictake-up.powernet/弹力网眼(fig22.8)isthemostwidely-knownstructureforfoundationwear.1522.10Elasticisedfabrics弹性织物Front(nylon)ElastaneFig22.7Elastanefabrics1622.11Jacquardraschels

贾卡拉舍尔织物OnKarlMayermachineusingmechanicaljacquardcontrol,theprincipleemployedwastodeflectselectedguidesinafully-threadedjacquardbarguidebarbymeansofselectivelylowereddropperpins/移位针carriedinaseparately-shoggeddisplacementpinbar/移位针床.Thoseguideshaveagreaterorlesserextentoflapthantheundeflectedguidesofthesameguidebarwhichlapthedistancecontrolledbytheguidebarshoggingatthatcourse.Thepinsarekeptinthedisplacementpositionorraisedoutofactionbymeansofaverdoljacquardapparatus/韦多尔式提花机构andharness/通丝arrangedabovethemachine.1722.11Jacquardraschels

贾卡拉舍尔织物Thetypeofdeflection/歪斜isdependentupontherelativelappingmovementsofbothbarsandtheexactmomentwhenthepincontactstheguide,sothattheguideiseitherdeflectedtowardsorawayfromitsdirectionoflapping.figureillustrateshowasemi-transparent/半密实区域two-needleinlay/2针衬纬(a)canbedeflectedtotheleftatoddcoursestoproduceopen-workareas/网孔区域ofone-needleinlays/1针衬纬(b),oratevencoursestoproducesolidareas/密实区域ofthree-needleinlays/3针衬纬(c).(a)(b)(c)Fig22.8Jacquardinlaydeflectionunits.18Fig22.9Mechanicaljacquardapparatus.1922.12theMayerjacquardtronicmulti-barlaceraschel迈耶电子式多梳拉舍尔花边机Thetraditionalmechanicalverdoljacquardcontrol/韦多尔式提花控制,preciouslydescribed,isslow,cumbersome/笨重的andtime-consumingwhenchangingdesigns.Onthelatestelectronicmachines,thejacquardheadhasbeenreplacedbyacomputercontrolthatissimplylinkedbyacable/绳缆tothecombinedselectionelementandjacquardguide,whichareoneunit.Therearenojacquardharnesscords/通丝forliftingandguidedisplacementwhichwouldrestricttheuseoftheconventionalguidebarswingingmovement.Atfirst,KarlMayerusedelectro-magnetstoobtainthejacquarddeflectionmovement;thishasnowbeenreplacedbypiezotechnology/压电材料.Whenanelectricalvoltageisappliedtoapiezoelectricmaterial,itexpandsorcontractsasafunctionofthepolarity/磁极性.2022.12theMayerjacquardtronicmulti-barlacer