浪漫之都布拉格.docx

浪漫之都布拉格 Clockwisefromtopleft:preparingadrinkatAnonymousBar;asceneintheZizkovdistrict,wherenewartgallerieshaveopenedinrecentyears;T-Ankerbar;PourPour;adishatGeorgePrimeSteak顺时针左上角开始：匿名者酒吧调酒；济之科夫区一景，那里坐落着近年开馆的美术馆；T-安克酒吧；布尔布尔服饰小店；乔治顶级牛排店。ForpeoplewhohaventtraveledtoPraguerecently,theCzechcapitalmightseemlikeaknownquantity:acitywithathousandyearsofarchitecture,cheapbeerandoftenboringrestaurantswherethemostunusualingredientsarethedoughydumplings.ButPragueisdevelopingsoquicklythatmanylocalsstillhaventheardofallthenextbigthings:flashynewartgalleries,dynamicallydevelopingoldneighborhoods,greatbars-beyondandincludingbeer-andnewrestaurantswithflavorfulofferingsfromclassicsteaksandchopstoAsianspice.Infact,somanynewdevelopmentshaveappearedinPraguethatyoucouldspendanentireweekendvisitingonlythoseplacesthathaveopenedinthepastcoupleofyears.SeePragueCastle,CharlesBridgeandalltheotherclassicattractions.Butfinishoutyourstaywithsomeofthevibrantnewcomers.对于近期没有到访布拉格的人来说，这座捷克的都城似乎还是旧日熟悉的风貌： 千年的古建筑，廉价的啤酒，还有把面团饺子当宝贝的千篇一律的餐馆。但布拉格正在如此快速地发展，以至于很多变化对于当地人来说都还是新鲜事：美轮美奂的美术馆，多元化发展的居民区，一流的酒吧-所提供的酒水中虽然包括，但也绝不仅限于啤酒-还有饭菜可口的新式餐馆， 提供的食物从经典牛排、排骨到亚洲香料，应有尽有。事实上，布拉格新变化如此繁多，即便只到访近年开放的地方，可能就要花去你整个周末。布拉格城堡、查理士桥和其他古典名胜自然是必去之处，但旅行结束前也要记得到访几个充满朝气的新去处。1.CleanUp| 5p.m.1. 全面整顿| 5p.m.Buildings-andresidents-inOldTownhavecleanedupnicelyoflate.Intheonce-decrepitPalacDlouha,anArtDecolandmark,thenewground-floorshoppingarcadeincludesSisters,anairybistrowithgourmetopen-facedsandwiches(25to49koruna,or$1.25to$2.50,at19.50korunastothedollar)thatmakeperfectlate-afternoonsnacks.Ablockaway,two-year-oldEternoModernooffersvintageandnewfashions,mostlyforwomen,somemadeoutofrecycledfabric;acrossthestreet,KurazstocksclothingandaccessoriesfromavarietyofyoungCzechdesigners,likeknee-highstockingsprintedwithinsects,revolversandotherunusualpatterns.Evengentlemenaregettinginontheact:AcrossWenceslasSquare,theRoomhasbeensellingmenswearfromartsyNorthernEuropeanbrandslikeDenmarksLibertine-LibertineandRoyalRepubliqforthepasttwoyears.Andjustaroundthecorner,ThomassBarberShopoffersaScotch,cigar,hand-wrap,haircutandstraight-razorshavepackagethatcosts1,600koruna.古城里的建筑物，包括居民区，都是新近整顿过的。曾经老旧的装饰艺术地标杜哈宫一楼新建了购物拱廊，其中一家姐妹小酒馆在售卖美味的单片三明治（25到49克朗，或者是1.25到2.50美元， 19.50克朗等于1美元），这是午后最完美的小食。一个街区之外，两年前开张的埃尔泰诺 摩登（EternoModerno）提供古典和最新的潮流服饰，大多是女装，有的产品用可循环面料制成的。在街对面，库哈兹（Kuraz）存有各式各样的衣衫和配饰，来自捷克年轻的设计师们，比如印有昆虫图案、左轮手枪或是其他别致图案的及膝长袜。即使是各位绅士，也能找到他们的一席之地：温塞斯拉斯广场另一边的空间（Room）正在售卖艺术气质十足的北欧品牌男装，比如丹麦近两年的潮牌的波普印花（Libertine-Libertine）和RoyalRepubliq。而就在角落的那边，汤姆斯理发店提供苏格兰2.OpulentOligarchy| 7p.m.2. 奢华寡头| 7p.m.LikemanyEuropeancities,Praguehasgonecrazyforfancyhamburgers,andtheresnothingquiteliketheoligarchburgerattheeight-month-oldGeorgePrimeSteak:ajuicypattyofimportedagedAmericanwagyuwithfoiegras,blacktruffleaioli,Brillat-Savarincheeseand-ofcourse! -ribbonsof24-karatgold,creatingajuicy,smokyexplosionofsavoryflavorsthatissafelyservedonlyinthebar(990koruna).Theburgergetsthemostattention,buttherealdrawsatthissleekchophousearetherib-eyes,filetsmignonsandstripsteaks,includinga34-ounceporterhousefortwo(1,950koruna),allsourcedfromtheUnitedStates.ThereisalsoalineofrareAmericanwhiskeysthatarguablystopsata22-year-oldryefromHirschSelection(550koruna),sincetherarestnameonthelist, 23-year-oldVanWinklebourbon,isusuallysoldout.Clearly,someoligarchshavegoodtaste.Dinnerfortwowithoutwine, 2,500to4,000koruna.正如许多欧洲的城市一样，布拉格着迷于各类花式汉堡。而再没有什么能像8个月前开张的乔治高级牛排店的 寡头汉堡一样了：在鲜美多汁的肉饼里包含了进口的成熟的美国和牛肉、鹅肝、黑色松露蒜泥蛋黄酱，萨伐仑松饼，还有-当然-24克拉金色装饰带，带给你一种多汁的、烟熏味的味觉体验。酒吧提供，放心食用（990克朗）。汉堡已是倍受瞩目，但这家小酒馆真正的看点其实是肉眼牛排，牛里脊和纽约客牛排，包括34盎司的两人份大脊骨牛排 （1950克朗），所有原材料来自美国。他们有一条关于美国稀有威士忌的规定，那就是只用酿造了22年的赫西典藏系列黑麦酒（550克朗）。而酒单上最稀有的一种-酿造23年凡温克尔波旁威士忌则总是销售一空。很明显，有钱人总是能尝到好滋味。一顿双人晚餐，无酒，2500到4000克朗。威士忌、雪茄、包手、理发和刮胡一条龙服务，只要1600克朗。3.CureThyself| 10:30p.m.3. 自我治愈| 10:30p.m.Afewofthemoversand(literal)shakersinLondonscocktailsceneareCzechbarownersandbartenders,severalofwhomhaverecentlyreturnedtomixupconcoctionsinPrague.ThebestnewcomerisBonvivants,asmallspeakeasyinOldTownthatopenedthispastwinter,servingdrinkspreparedwiththeirownhouse-madeflavorings,includingrose-hip-and-hibiscusbitters(cocktails,around150koruna).Afterahighball,wanderthecobblestonestreetsuntilyoustumbleacrossthetwo-year-oldAnonymousBar,whichtakesitsdesigninspirationfromVforVendettaandofferssimilarlytheatricaldrinks,liketheSt.MarrysViruscocktail(175koruna),servedfromagiantsyringe.伦敦调制鸡尾酒的场景总是左摇摇右晃晃，捷克酒吧老板和调酒师差不多也这样。他们中的一些人近期回到了布拉格调制鸡尾酒。波为安酒吧（Bonvivants）是个极好的新去处，一个古城里小小的地下酒吧，上个冬天开张，提供多种自家风味的饮品，其中就有略苦的蔷薇果配芙蓉花（鸡尾酒，约150 克朗）。一杯冰镇威士忌之后，漫步在鹅卵石道路上，直至你蹒跚着走过匿名者酒吧。这家酒吧开业两年，灵感来自于V字仇杀队，相应地也提供各种颇具戏剧色彩的饮品，比如那款用大型注射剂为你斟满的圣玛丽娅病毒鸡尾酒（175克朗）。4.HighGrade| 10a.m.4. 优等货Dontsettleforhotelcoffee.Foryears,high-gradearabicawashardtofindinPrague,thoughthatchangedwiththearrivalofafewqualitycafesandartisanalroastinghouses.Intourist-friendlyOldTown,however,abiggapremained.Thenewestarrival,OriginalCoffee,openedearlierthisyear,closetothechurchofJanHusatBetlemskeNamesti.Afterword,burnoffthatcaffeineenergywithamorningconstitutional.Althoughtheneighborhoodishometomanytouristattractions,Saturdaymorningsoftenhavefewercrowds,andtiny,little-usedstreetslikenearbyZlataandStribrnaofferplentyofbeautifulphotoopportunities.绝不要满足于酒店的咖啡。多年来，布拉格内都很难找到优等的阿拉伯咖啡，虽然随着一些高档咖啡馆和手工艺烘焙坊的到来，这种情况有所缓解。然而在好客的古镇，咖啡质量还是良莠不齐。最新的租客纯品咖啡今年年初开张，毗邻伯利恒广场的扬胡斯的教堂。品味过后，以一个悠闲的晨间散步燃掉那些咖啡因带来的热量吧。虽然街区是观光点密集地，周六早晨通常游客稀少，在扎拉塔和斯卓布纳附近少有人走过的小街上，常常有机会拍出漂亮的照片。5.PairTheeWell|Noon5. 成双成对| 中午Yes,Pragueisabeertown,butqualitywineismoreandmorecommon,especiallyatmeals.ThevanguardofthecityswinecultureisVinograf,ayear-oldwinebarandrestaurantatSenovazneNamesti,whichserveswell-selectedCzechwines,mostlyfromthesunnyregionsofSouthMoravia,alongsideimportsfromAustria,France,Italy,Hungaryandelsewhere.ThemenufeaturesMediterraneanandContinentalrecipes-thinkofroastporktenderloinwithpaprikasauce-thatpairwellwiththe650orsoavailablebottles.Lunchfortwowithoutwine,about1,000koruna.没错，布拉格是一个啤酒城，但是优质的酒水也越来越普遍，特别是一日三餐开饭的时候。本城酒文化的先驱要数维农哈弗（Vinograf），它是塞侬瓦纳广场开张一年的酒吧，提供精选的捷克葡萄酒，大多数来自于南摩拉维亚阳光普照的地区，也有的从奥地利、法国、意大利、匈牙利和其他地方进口。菜式以地中海和欧式风味为主-想想撒上辣椒酱的猪肉里脊-和那瓶你能享受到得约650克朗的酒真是天生一对。两人份的午餐，无酒，大约1000克朗。6.SideStreets| 2p.m.6. 小街小巷| 2p.m.ThegrungyZizkovdistricthasdevelopeditscolorfulculturallifeevenmoreinrecentyears,withahandfulofnewartgalleriesnorthofSkroupovoNamesti.Startoutatthetwo-year-oldDrdovaGallery,whosecurrentexhibitionincludesworkfromJiriThyn,FedericoDiazandHynekAlt.TwoblocksfromthereyoullfindHuntKastnerArtworks,whichmovedtoZizkovoneyearago,downtheblockfromtheCitySurferOffice,agalleryandexhibitionspacerunbyacollectivethatalsohasitsownrecordlabel.OnnearbysidestreetsvisittheunusualBlissFarmGallery,whichturnsantiquephotosintohorror-inspiredworksofart,and35m2,atinyexhibitionspacebehindCafPavlac,whereyoucanfinallystopforrefreshments.曾经老旧的济之科夫区近几年大力发展了丰富多彩的文化生活，一系列新的艺术博物馆坐落在北思科洛浦广场。从开关两年的迪哈朵维美术馆开始，你可以看到包括JiriThyn,FedericoDiaz和HynekAlt几个艺术家近期展览。两个街区远的地方你可以看到亨特卡斯特纳艺术品展览，这是一年前搬到济之科夫去的。从城市冲浪者办公室往下的那个街区，一个有着自己唱片品牌的公司正在开放一个美术馆和一个展览会。在附近的小街区能参观到另类的幸福农场画廊，他们将老照片变成惊悚的艺术作品。还有35m2，位于帕弗拉克咖啡馆（CafPavlac）背后的小展区。在那里的咖啡馆里你终于可以稍作休息、享受茶点。7.VintageDesigns| 4p.m.7.古典设计| 4p.m.FashioninZizkovandVinohradyusuallymeansstreetwearandretrostyle.Duringtheweek,youcansiftthroughBohemianRetrosimpressivecollectionofmensandwomensvintageclothing,mostlyfromtheformerCzechoslovakia;theshopisgenerallyclosedonweekends,socalltocheck.AdecentalternativeonaSaturdayafternoon:PragueThriftStore,aless-curatedcollectionofleathertrenchcoats,blazersandevensecondhandbooks.ForladiesstreetwearfromCzechdesigners,tryPourPour,whichstocksdecoratedacrylicbracelets(390koruna)andleatherbackpacks(2,500koruna),aswellastutu-inspiredskirtsanddresses.时尚在济之科夫和维诺哈迪通常意味着老旧复古的风格。平日里你可以在复古波西米亚（BohemianRetro）挑选让人一见难忘的男士或女士古典服饰，它们中的大多数都是前捷克斯洛伐克时期留下来的。这家店面周末通常都会关门，所以去之前先打个电话问问吧。另一个周六午后好去处：布拉格节俭商店。一些不完整的收集，比如皮风衣，运动夹克甚至是二手书。如果要找出自捷克设计师之手的街头服饰，就去布尔布尔（PourPour）看看吧，他们存有精心装饰的有机玻璃手镯（390克朗）和皮制双肩背包（2500克朗），也有灵感源于芭蕾舞裙的短裙和连衣裙。8.LiberalArts| 5p.m.8.自由艺术ManyinterestingnewdevelopmentsinthecitysnortherndistrictsofHolesoviceandBubenecflyundertheradar.Startoutattheexcellenttwo-year-oldKavarnaLiberal,anold-schoolcoffeehousewithhighceilings,refreshingspiritsandfreeWi-Fi,whereyoucanaskthefriendlylocalsfortips.Downthestreet,checktoseeifthefour-month-oldGalerieZari,anunusualexhibitionspace,isopenonweekends,astheschedulehasrecentlychanged;theneighboringGalerieZarishouldbeopenonSaturdayslaterthisspring.霍莱斯索维和布本尼克北部区域许多绕有趣味的新变化，都是不知不觉中发生的。从两年前开张的出色的 自由卡瓦纳尔（KavarnaLiberal）说起，这个旧式咖啡屋有着高高的天花板，提神的烈酒和免费无线上网服务，在那里你向友善的当地人询问一些旅行小贴士。沿着街道往下走，查看一下刚四个月前开张的扎日画馆（GalerieZari） 是否在周末开馆，这是一个别致的展览区，不过开馆时间不久前有变动。扎日画馆应是从这个春末开始，每周六开放。9.CurryFavor| 7p.m.9咖喱味ManyoftheoldfavoritesinOldTownhavechangednames,ownersandcooksrepeatedly.OncecalledMollyMalones,thepubonUObecnihoDvorastreetisnowknownastheJamesJoyce:althoughthepintsofOHarasstoutmakeanicechangefromPraguesubiquitouspilsners,theacecardhereisthepubsnewlistofspicycurries.Themenucomesfromthein-houseSexyCurryCompany,whichoffersjalfrezi,CapeMalayandThaigreencurriespreparedbySofiaSmith,thechefresponsibleforseveralofPraguesbest-lovedrestaurants.Dinnerfortwowithoutwine,about1,000koruna.古城里许多老店都多次改换了店名、店主和菜肴。一个在 欧贝妮朵夫哈街曾被叫做 莫利马龙（MollyMalones）的店现在更名叫詹姆斯乔伊斯（JamesJoyce）：即便大量的欧哈拉黑啤（OHara）取代无处不在的比尔森啤酒虽然是一个好的改变，酒吧真正的招牌是一系列的辣味咖喱。菜单来自室内的热辣咖喱公司，他们提供印度羊肉咖喱加尔弗兹（Jalfrezi），科普马来菜肴还有泰国绿咖喱，都由索菲亚史密斯烹饪，她是布拉格几个最令人喜爱的餐馆的主厨。两人份的晚餐，无酒，大概1000克朗。10.TapRace| 9p.m.10.布拉格啤酒啤酒Praguesreputationforgreatbeeriswelldeserved.Thefront-runner,ZlyCasy,inthesouth-centralPraguedistrictofNusle,hasledthecraftbeertapraceforyears(itnowhas48),butlastyearthepubgotyetanotherexpansion,andanewgrillmenu.OtherneighborhoodpubsincludetheexcellentUVodouchainZizkov,servingBohemiancuisineandbeersmostlyfromregionalbrewers.AndintheverycenterofPrague,thestylish,year-oldT-AnkerbaratoptheKotvadepartmentstoreoffersCzech,GermanandBelgiancraftbrewsonarooftopterrace.布拉格啤酒啤酒的好名声真是名至实归。位于布拉格中南部的努斯莱区的 兹尔卡西（ZlyCasy