T-CTES 1068-2024 制服面料极光的测试与评价

ICS61.020CCSY76制服面料极光的测试与评价中国纺织工程学会发布T/CTES1068—2024本文件按照GB/T1.1—2020《标准化工作导则第1部分：标准化文件的结构和起草规则》的规定起草。请注意本文件的某些内容可能涉及专利。本文件的发布机构不承担识别专利的责任。本文件由中国纺织工程学会标准化工作委员会提出。本文件由中国纺织工程学会归口。本文件负赍起草单位：江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司、愉悦家纺有限公司。本文件参加起草单位：江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司、江苏纺谷科技有限公司、山东沃源新型而料股份有限公司、温州方圆仪器有限公司、成都纺织高等专科学校。T/CTES1068—20241制服面料极光的测试与评价本文件描述了制服类机织面料快速产生极光的模拟试验方法、极光评价方法，规定了评价指标及极光分级。本文件适用于制服类机织面料极光的产生及考核、评价，其他机织面料参照执行。2规范性引用文件下列文件中的内容通过文中的规范性引用而构成本文件必不可少的条款。其中，注日期的引用文件，仪该日期对应的版本适用于本文件；不注日期的引用文件，其最新版本(包括所有的修改单)适用于本文件。GB/T1031产品几何技术规范表面结构轮廓法表面粗糙度参数及其数值GB/T3978标准照明体和几何条件GB/T4669纺织品机织物单位长度质量和单位面积质量的测定GB/T6040红外光谱分析方法通则GB/T6529纺织品调湿和试验用标准大气GB/T21196.1纺织品马丁代尔法织物耐磨性的测定第1部分：马丁代尔耐磨试验仪GB/T38612人造革合成革试验方法拉伸负荷及断裂伸长率的测定FZ/T0I097—2006织物光泽测试方法FZ/T01166纺织品织物触感检测与评价方法多指标集成法QB/T2709皮革物理和机械试验厚度的测定QB/T2715皮革物理和机械试验视密度的测定QB/T2726皮革物理和机械试验耐磨性能的测定FZ/T01097—2006界定的以及下列术语和定义适用于本文件。制服unifrom特定的单位、团体的成员所穿的统一制式的服装，用以辨识从事各个职业或不同团体的成员。注：制式服装。极光polarizedshining经过服用或者熨烫等，织物表面产生类似镜面的强烈光反射的现象，用光泽度变化率表征。3.3光泽度变化率therateofchangeinglossiness同一块织物，发生极光后的对比光泽度减去未发生极光时的对比光泽度，得到的差值与未发生极光时的对比光泽度的比值。2T/CTES1068—2024注：分为经向光泽度变化率和纬向光泽度变化率。由测量织物经向得到的光泽度变化率称为经向光泽度变化率；4原理采用极光发生装置使待测织物产生极光，通过织物光泽度仪测量织物发生极光前后的对比光泽度变化，利用光泽度变化率进行织物极光的评价。5试验设备5.1织物光泽仪5.1.1仪器的照明条件和几何条件应符合GB/T3978的规定5.1.2仪器应符合FZ/T01097—2006规定，其他能获得相同结果的设备也可使用。5.2极光发生装置5.2.1极光产生原理使待测织物在一定的压强、一定的磨台加热温度下，以轨迹形成李莎茹图形的平面运动与磨台上的磨料进行一定转数的摩擦；在此过程中，织物表面受到热、挤压和摩擦等物理机械作用而变形，表面被磨平磨光，便织物产生极光。5.2.2极光发生装置的要求5.2.2.1极光发生装置的仪器示意如图1所示1——固定杆；2—磨头；4织物；5——磨料；6——毛毡；7——温度传感器；8—加热模块；9-—磨台。图1织物平磨极光仪示意图5.2.2.2对磨头的要求应当符合直径为2.8cm,织物的受摩擦区域的面积约为6.2×10*m²。T/CTES1068—202435.2.2.3对磨台的要求符合如下要求。A)尺寸不低于磨头，应能够完成满足5.2.1的李莎茹图形摩擦轨迹；或者直接给出具体要求。b)应安装能够控制温度的装置，每个独立磨台可独立控温，温度变化范围为室温至100℃。c)应可固定人造革磨料，人造革磨料要求按照附录A执行。5.2.3泡沫塑料与毛毡试样与磨头之间衬垫的泡沫塑料，磨台与磨料之间衬垫的毛毡均应符合GB/T21196.1的规定。6参数要求极光发生试验中，试验条件及参数要求见表1。表1极光发生试验参数要求温度/℃7调湿及试验用标准大气在GB/T6529的规定的标准大气下对试样进行调湿和试验。8试样准备8.1取样从距布边150mm以上区域均匀裁取3块织物，每块织物的尺寸为直径4cm的圆。取样时应避开影响试验结果的疵点和褶皱，被裁取织物之间不应包括相同的经纱和纬纱。8.2试样的标记试验开始前在织物的背面标注好织物的经向与纬向，确保后续测量对比光泽度时能够准确分辨织物的经向与纬向，分别测量经向与纬向的对比光泽度数值。标记应不影响试验的进行。8.3试样的放置要求在测量前，明确光泽度仪中的入射光照射在样品台上的光斑的具体位置，在样品台上画出光斑的范围，并且在样品台上画出两条互成90°的经向标注线与纬向标注线，作为规定织物张贴方向的依据。将织物按照样品台上标注的经纬方向贴在样品台上，使织物的经纬向与样品台上标注的经纬向一致，并且使样品覆盖光斑区域，如图2所示，试样正面朝外，分别测量织物的经向对比光泽度与纬向对比光泽度。41—经向标注线；图2织物放置示意图值为0,漫应射校准成功；校准完成。9.2.1打开极光发生装置。9.2.2在装置控制面板上，根据表1参数要求，依次设置好温度、压强、转数、转速。9.2.3在磨台上放置毛毡，将磨料放在毛毡上，磨料的摩擦面向上，放上加压重锤，用固定环固定磨料。装样辅助装置，保证织物夹具与辅助装置紧密结合，拧紧织物夹具环到磨头上，保证织物和泡沫衬垫不变形，不移位。定杆。9.2.6开启运行按钮，使织物与磨料开始摩擦，直至达到规定转数后，装置自动停止运行。T/CTES1068—202459.3.2将发生极光后的对比经向光泽度记为Gc,发生极光后的对比纬向光泽度记为Gcw。10计算与结果表示10.1.1对比光泽度计算见公式(1)。式中：Gc——织物对比光泽度；Gs——织物正反射光光强度，%;Gr——织物正反射光光强度与漫反射光光强度的差值，%。10.1.2经向光泽度变化率计算见公式(2)。式中：EGc——经向光泽度变化率；Gu——极光织物的经向对比光泽度；Gcoi——初始织物的经向对比光泽度。10.1.3纬向光泽度变化率计算见公式(3)。式中：eGcw—纬向光泽度变化率；…………(1)…………(2)…………(3)Gc——极光织物的纬向对比光泽度；Gco初始织物的纬向对比光泽度。试验结果中对比光泽度保留两位小数，光泽度变化率均保留一位小数。10.2试验结果表述敢3块织物的平均值作为最终的对比光泽度数值。11.1评价指标对极光的强弱程度用光泽度变化率的数值来进行评价。取经向光泽度变化率和纬向光泽度变化率的最：大值，作为织物的光泽度变化率。11.2分级评价根据光泽度变化率对织物极光强度的对应关系，需要时，根据光泽度变化率的测试值，对织物产生的极光进行等级的划分，见表2。T/CTES1068—20246表2织物极光等级划分要求等级光泽度变化率描述5级无极光4级>5%,≤10%微弱的极光3级>10%,≤20%明显的极光2级>20%,≤30%较强的极光>30%刺眼的极光试验报告应至少包括以下内容：a)所采用的本文件编号；b)试样来源及描述；c)试验参数；d)试验结果；e)任何偏离本文件的细节和异常情况描述；f)试验日期。7T/CTES1068—2024(规范性)极光平磨仪使用的磨料的规格安装在极光平磨仪中与织物进行摩擦的、直径至少140mm的人造革磨料规格，主要参数符合表A.1织物对比光泽度——人造革磨料规格性能要求试验方法克重/(g/m³)572GB/T4669厚度/mm0.8QB/T2709密度/(kg/m³)710QB/T27157.029GB/T1031材质聚氯乙烯人造革GB/T6040动摩擦系数长度方向0.41FZ/T01166宽度方向0.21拉伸性能拉伸负荷(断裂力)/NGB/T38612抗张强度/MPa7.62断裂伸长率/%耐磨性灰卡等级/级2QB/T2726样品外观无损坏无损坏无损坏磨料在每摩擦10000r后，需要更换新的皮革磨料，保证每次试验前使用的磨料是未经过试验的新磨料。此磨料将作为标准物质，由极光平磨仪的设备厂家与极光平磨仪配套提供。8T/CTES1068—2024制服面料极光的测试与评价Issuedate:2024-06-20Implementationdate:2024-07-01T/CTES1068一20249ThisdocumentisdraftedinaccordancewiththerulesestablishedintheGB/T1.1—2020Directivesforstandardization—Part1:Structureanddraftingofstandards.ThisdocumentisproposedbytheStandardizationWorkingCommitteeoftheChinaTextileEngineer-ingSociety.Theissuingbodyofthisdocumentisnotresponsiblefortheidentificationofpatents.ThisdocumentisunderthejurisdictionofChinaTextileEngineeringSociety.T/CTES1068—2024Thisdocumentspecifiesthesimulationtestmethodforuniformwovenfabricstoproduceaurorafast,theauroraevaluationmethod,specifiestheevaluationindexandauroragrading.Thisdocumentappliestothegeneration,assessmentandevaluationofauroraofwovenfabricsforuniforms,otherwovenfabricscanalsorefertotheimplementation,2NormativereferencesThecontentsofthefollowingdocumentsconstituteindispensableprovisionsofthisdocumentthroughnormativereferencesinthetext.Whereadocumentiscitedwithadate,onlytheversioncorrespondingtothatdateapplestothisdocument;whereadocumentiscitedwithoutadate,thelatestversion(includingalchangeorders)appliestothisdocument.GB/T1031,Geometricalprochuctspocifications(GPS)Surfacetexture,ProfilemethodSurfaceroughnessparametersandtheirvaluesGB/T3978,SandardilluminantsandgeometricconditionsGB/T4669,Textiles—Wovenfabrics—Determinationofmassperunitlengthandmassperunitar-eaGB/T6040,GeneralrulesforinfraredanalysisGB/T6529,Textiles—StandardatmosphereforconditioningandtestingGB/T21196.1,Textiles—DeterminationoftheabrasionresistanceoffabricsbytheMartin-dalemethod—Part1:martindaleabrasiontestingapparatusGB/T38612,TestMethodsofartificialleatherandsyntheticleather—DeterminationoftensileloadandelongationatbreakFZ/T01097—2006,Textilesfabrics—TestmethodofglossT/CTES1068—2024FZ/T01166,Textiles—Determinationandevaluationforfabric—skintouchcomfort—Multi—inde-xesintegrationmethodQB/T2709,Leather—Physicalandmechanicaltests—DeterminationofthicknessQB/T2715,Leather—Physicalandmechanicaltests—DeterminationofapparentdensityQB/T2726,Leather—Physicalandmechanicaltests—Determinationofabrasionresistance3TerminologyanddefinitionsTheprovisionsofFZ/T01097—2006andthefollowingtermsanddefinitionsapplytothisdocument.3.1uniformsClothingiswornbymembersofaparticularorganizationorgroup,isusedtoidentifymembersofvariousoccupationsordifferentgroups.3.2aurorasimilartothatofamirror,whichcanbecharacterizedbytherateofchangeofgloss.3.3therateofchangeinglossinessTheratioofthedifferenceobtainedbysubtractingthecontrastingglossafteraurorafromthecon-trastingglosswithoutaurorafromthesamefabrictothecontrastingglosswithoutaurora.NOTEItisdividedintowarpglosschangerateandweftglosschangerate.Therateofchangeofglossobtainedofchangeofglossobtainedbymeasuringtheweftdirectionistherateofchangeofglossintheweftdirectlon.T/CTES1068—20244PrincipleAnaurorageneratingdeviceisusedtomakethefabrictobetestedproduceaurora,andthecontras-tingglosschangeofthefabricbeforeandaftertheoccurrenceofauroraismeasuredbyafabricglossmeter,andtherateofglosschangeisutilizedfortheevaluationofthefabricaurora.5Equipment5.1Fabricglossmeter5.1.1ThelightingconditionsandgeometricconditionsoftheinstrumentshouldbeinaccordancewiththeprovisionsofGB/T3978.5.1.2InstrumentsshouldcomplywiththeprovisionsofFZ/T01097—2006,andotherequipmentthatcanobtainthesameresultscanalsobeused.5.2Auroralgenerators5.2.1PrinciplesofauroralproductionSothatthefabrictobetestedinacertainpressure,acertaingrindingtableundertheheatingtem-perature,tothetrajectoryoftheformationofLiSharugraphicplanarmotionandtheabrasivemate-rialonthegrindingtableforacertainnumberofrevolutionsoffriction;intheprocess,thefabricsurfaceissubjectedtoheat,extrusionandfrictionandotherphysicalandmechanicaleffectsofde-formation,thesurfacewassmoothedandpolished,sothatthefabricproducesauroraborealis.5.22Requirementsforauroralgenerators5.2.2.1TheinstrumentationoftheauroralgeneratorisshownschematicallyinFigure1.T/CTES1068—20244—Fabric;5一Abrasives;6—Felt;Figure1—Schematicdiagramoffabricflatgrindingpolarimeter5.2.22Requirementsforthegrindingheadshouldbemet:Thediameteris2.8cmandtheareaofthefabricsubjectedtofrictionisabout6.2×10⁴m².5.2.2.3Requirementsforthegrindingtableshouldbemet;a)Notlessthanthesizeofthegrindinghead,whichshouldbecapableofaccomplishingagraphicalfrictiontrajectorythatsatisfies5.2.1forLiSharu;orjustgivethespecificrequirements.b)Adevicecapableofcontrollingthetemperatureshallbeinstalled,andeachindividualgrindingtablecanbeindependentlytemperature—controlled,withatemperaturevariationrangefromroomtemperatureto100℃.c)Itshalbepossibletofixartificialleatherabrasives,therequirementsforartificialleatherabra-sivesareimplementedinaccordancewithAppendixA.5.2.3FoamandfeltThefoamofthelinerbetweenthespecimenandthegrindinghead,andthefeltofthelinerbetweenthegrindingtableandtheabrasivematerialshouldbeinaccordancewiththeprovisionsofGB/T21196.1.T/CTES1068—2024ThetestconditionsandparametersrequiredintheauroralgenerationtestareshowninTable3.Table1—ParameterrequirementsforauroralgenerationtestsNumberofrevolutionsThespecimenishumidifiedandtestedunderthestandardatmospherespecifiedinGB/T6529.8Preparationofspecimens8.1SamplingCut3piecesoffabricuniformlyfromtheareaabove150mmfromtheedgeofthefabric,andthesizeofeachpieceoffabricisacirclewithadiameterof4cm.Thesamplingshouldavoidthedefectsandfoldsthataffectthetestresults,andthecutfabricsshouldnotincludethesamewarpandweftyarns.8.2MarkingofspecimensBeforethestartofthetest,markthewarpandweftofthefabriconthebackofthefabrictoensurethatthesubsequentmeasurementofthecontrastingglosscanaccuratelydistinguishthewarpandweftofthefabric,andmeasurethecontrastingglossvaluesofthewarpandweftrespectively.Themarkingshouldnotaffecttheconductofthetest.8.3RequirementsforplacementofspecimensBeforethemeasurement,clarifytheincidentlightintheglossmeterirradiationonthesamplestageofthespecificlocationofthespot,thesamplestagetodrawthescopeofthespot,andinthesam-plestagetodrawthetwo90°eachotherintothewarpdirectionofthelabelinglineandtheweftdi-rectionofthelabelingline,asastipulationofthefabricpostedonthebasisofthedirection.StickthefabriconthesamplestageinaccordancewiththewarpandweftdirectionslabeledonthesampleT/CTES1068—2024stage,sothatthewarpandweftdirectionsofthefabricareconsistentwiththewarpandweftdi-rectionslabeledonthesamplestage,andsothatthesamplecoverstheareaofthelightspot,asshowninFigure.2,withthefrontsideofthespecimenfacingoutward,andthenmeasurethecon-trastingglossofthefabricinthewarpdirectionandthecontrastingglossofthefabricintheweftdi-rection,respectively.Citetheserlalnumberdescription:1—Longitudinallabelinglines;2—Spotrangewhenmeasuringweftcontrastglossoffabrics;3—Specimen;4—Latitudinallabelinglines;5—Spotrangeformeasuringwarpcontrastglossoffabrics;6—SsmpleStands.Figure.2—Schematicdiagramoffabricplacement9.1InitialGlossMeasurement9.1.1Turnontheglossmeterandwarmitupfor30minutes.Theinstrumentshouldbeplacedonaplatformoutofdirectsunlight.9.1.2Performreflectioncalibration.Tocalibratethepositivereflection,usethecorrespondingstandardplate,placeitonthemeasurementarea,rotatetheplatesothatthepositivereflectionval-uereaches100andthediffusereflectionvalueis0,thepositivereflectioncalibrationissuccessful;similarly,usethediffusereflectioncalibrationplatesothatthediffusereflectionvaluereaches100andthepositivereflectionvalueis0,thediffusereflectioncalibrationissuccessful;thecalibrationiscomplete.9.1.3Placethesamplestageinthemeasurementareaafterattachingtheinitialfabric,faceup,toT/CTES1068—2024thesamplestageinaccordancewiththelongitudinallabelingline.9.1.4TheinitialfabriccontrastglossvalueisreadandtheinitialcontrastglossinthewarpdirectionisnotedasGcoy.9.1.5Rotatethesamplestage90°directlyclockwiseandreadthecontrastglossvalue,TheinitialcontrastglossinthelatitudinaldirectionisrecordedasGcow.9.2Auroralgenerationtest9.2.1Turnontheauroralgenerator.9.2.2Onthecontrolpaneloftheunit.setthetemperature,pressure,numberofrevolutionsandspeedinorderaccordingtotheparameterrequirementsofTable1.9.2.3Placeafeltonthegrindingtable,placetheabrasiveonthefeltwiththefrictionsideoftheabrasiveup,placeapressurizedweightandsecuretheabrasivewitharetainingring.9.2.4Placetheinitialfabricandfoamliner,testedforcontrastinggloss,intothegrooveatthelargeendofthemillhead,withthefabricfrontfacingoutward,placingthesampleloadingaidtoen-surethatthefabricfixtureistightlycoupledwiththeaid,andtighteningthefabricfixtureringtothemillheadtoensurethatthefabricandfoamlinerarenotdeformedordisplaced.9.2.5Placetheabrasiveheadwiththefabricmountedontheabrasivetabletoensurethattheabra-dedsurfaceofthefabricrubsagainsttheabrasivefrictionsurfaceontheabrasivetableduringthetest,andinserttheretainíngbar.9.2.6Turnontherunbuttontostartrubbingthefabricagainsttheabrasivematerialuntilthespeci-fiednumberofrevolutionsisreachedandtheunitautomaticallystopsrunning.9.2.7Removethefabric.9.3Glossinesstestofspecimensafterauroraborealis9.3.1Takethefabricaftertheoccurrenceofauroraborealisin9.2.7andfollowthestepsin9.1toperformacontrastingglossmeasurementaftertheoccurrenceofauroraborealis;9.3.2RecordthecontrastingmeridionalglossinessaftertheoccurrenceofaurorasasGcandthecontrastinglatitudinalglossinessaftertheoccurrenceofaurorasasGcw.T/CTES1068—202410Calculationandpresentationofresults10.1Calculations10.1.1Contrastglosscalculationformula(1):whereGc—fabriccontrastgloss;Gs—theintensityofpositivelyreflectedlightfromthefabric;Ga—thedifforencebetweenthepositivelyreflectadlightintensityandthediffuselyreflectedlightintensityofthefabric.10.1.2Calculationformula(2)fortherateofchangeoflongitudinalglosswhereEGc—rateofchangeoflongitudinalgloss;Gc—Warp-contrastglossinessofpolarizedfabrics;Gco—Warpcontrastglossoftheinitialfabric.10.1.3Formula(3)forcalculatingtherateofchangeoflatitudinalglossinesswhereEGcw—rateofchangeoflatitudinalgloss;Gcw—Weftcontrastglossofaurorafabrics;T/CTES1068—2024Gcow—Weftcontrastglossoftheinitialfabric.Twodecimalplacesarereservedforcomparativeglossinthetestresults,andonedecimalplaceisreservedforthera